horseshoes w/ luke kurt and charlie

San Diego Travel Blog

 › entry 16 of 16 › view all entries
sorta forgot about this thing for a while there...
anyway, luke and kurt had never surfed la jolla before so i thought it quite necessary that they do.  and i thought they might enjoy horseshoes or hospitals [where i surfed for the first time a few days before with trevor.. and saw taylor knox in the water by the way] so we went and looked and sure enough, it was going offf.  and there was barely anyone out!!!  a few spongers but i think other than that there was only one other surfer.  and the waves were head high+ so it made for an excellent evening of surfing.  had one reallly fun right where i kind of began to realize how to surf.  its funny, there are often certain waves i catch that just.. kind of give me understanding.  it was pretty long, but then it started to peak again about 20 feet in front of me, so i just aimed for the center of the wall and cut right into it.  kinda slapped my face a bit but was super exilerating.  i like being able to control where i go.  trevor was telling me the other day that the board im on [the 6'1 waterlogged ultra light] is terrible to learn on but what he doesnt seem to understand is thats what i want to learn to ride!  ive been learning on all kinds of different boards and they just arent what i want.  i want a fast little board that i can be precise on- even if i cant be yet, i know if i keep going and keep trying, i will be able to eventually, and thats all that really matters.  who cares if it takes longer, its all about the ride, not the destination, and i like the ride on short little thrusters!  but then again, im pretty sure that when i Do buy a new board, im gonna get a retro fish.  i tried trevors last weekend and it was super fun, so fuck what matt says, i DO want a freakin fish.  and not to mention, im sort of already beginning to figure out this little grom board and its really all i wanna do anymore.  ive even got a gahdamn wetsuit tan!!  okay, the end.
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photo by: Sunflower300