first big day in a while it feels like

so i dont get onilne enough to keep this on here, and its been pretty small all week so this is now just for the really good days i want to remember.  like today :]
OB pier 4:45 to 7ish
waist to head high, tide was coming up [high by 9 something] and some offshore winds so it was a fun day!  caugh some of the best rights ive ever had, but was so stoked on the size and speed of the wave that i couldnt even think to pump, and i just let the wave show me where to go.  was really fun but i really need to work on pumping so i can figure out how to move around on a wave!
almost had a floater but couldnt steer back into the wave and just came off the lip :/
next time.
the sea weed was pretty bad today as was the sea lice or jellys or whatever it is that is stinging me.  but other than that, i had a blast.  its so nice to be back in the water so often