Croissants and the d'Orsay

Paris Travel Blog

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Inside the Musée d'Orsay
We got up slightly later today...7:30!...and went off in search off warm croissants. Heading back to the top (market) part of Montorgeuil, we went to Stohrer Bakery, which is a city landmark: they've been around since the 1700's, and made the croissants and pastries for the kings of France. The croissants are flaky, buttery and delicious. We also tried a pain au chocolat and a tarte aux raisins, and my favorite: cannele', which is a fluted column of caky rum pastry with a custard filling that is baked in, and a chewy texture.

We ate our pastries while walking down towards the Seine...in the dark, because the sun rises later here. We grabbed a coffee on the corner and then checked out the courtyard of the Louvre, and walked through the Tuileries and over to the Musee d'Orsay.
Musée d'Orsay


The museum was bigger than I remember, and I missed one of my favorite paintings on the 5th floor...it's a Caillebotte...the one with the floor woodworkers...because we needed a drink before finishing the rest of the museum, and then I got distracted talking to this nice older couple from Connecticut who was sitting next to us (he was a pianist in his younger years, and specialized in stride piano, which I also play so we geeked out about Fats Waller for awhile). I think we missed a whole section of the 5th floor. Oops. But what we saw was lovely. One of my favorite art museums. They had some interesting exhibitions...different juxtapositions of artists and media to hopefully change how we look at the art.

We're still exhausted from walking everywhere all day, so we headed down the street by my other old apartment on rue de Lille.
Sole Meuniére at the restaurant in my other old apartment on Rue de Lille.
At the base of my old building is a lovely restaurant with wooden beams called La Caleche, and I wanted to see if it was still as good as it used to be. I knew they changed owners.

I ordered the escargots to start, and then had the Sole Meuniere...just like Julia Child (who apparently lived pretty much down the street from this restaurant). Wish I'd known about her book, "My Life in France" when I was living here. I mean, the food certainly blew my mind then, but it's always nice to read an expert account (when she wasn't yet an expert). They didn't take the bones out of the Sole Meuniere tableside (no room in there for that), but it was light and wonderful. Morgan had the terrine, and then the seared scallops. The scallops were super sweet, but they had what he called a "hard sear" - not burnt at all, just a little tougher on the outside than you'd like, although the inside was perfect.
Notre Dame Cathedral
Both entrees came with a artichoke quiche which was also good.

Afterwards, we walked through St. Germain area, and then took the metro back to the hotel for a little nap before heading out again. We walked through our covered gallery (Passage Jouffroy) and through another one, until we got to a little market street. We went into a cheese shop, bought a selection of cheeses, then into the boulangerie and bought some bread, then into another little shop to buy some slices of pate' and rillettes, and a green grocer to get some grapes. We went back to Hotel Chopin and had a little picnic, then went out for a walk.

We passed by the Opera Garnier for a pic, then walked over to the Bateau Mouches (the boat tours of the Seine River)...hopped on the one on the Ile St. Louis and took evening photos of the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and Notre Dame Cathedral, with its big Christmas tree in the front..

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Inside the Musée dOrsay
Inside the Musée d'Orsay
Musée dOrsay
Musée d'Orsay
Sole Meuniére at the restaurant i…
Sole Meuniére at the restaurant …
Notre Dame Cathedral
Notre Dame Cathedral
La Caléche Restaurant at 8, rue d…
La Caléche Restaurant at 8, rue …
Morgan about to tuck into our litt…
Morgan about to tuck into our lit…
Opera Garnier
Opera Garnier
View from our Bateau Mouche ride o…
View from our Bateau Mouche ride …
Morgan and me in front of Notre Da…
Morgan and me in front of Notre D…
Detail of Notre Dame
Detail of Notre Dame
Notre Dame
Notre Dame
LHotel de Ville, with its sparkly…
L'Hotel de Ville, with its sparkl…
The Arts et Metiers metro stop
The Arts et Metiers metro stop
Paris
photo by: Sweetski