Glaciers and Lakes in El Calafate

El Calafate Travel Blog

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Wild, wild west

The descent in the plane (after about 3 hours flight) into El Calafate is impressive. Mountains, winding rivers, yellow and brown landscape. You can see Lago Argenito (the largest lake in Argentina) which is an impossible blue/green colour. Like bubblegum slush puppy. On acid.


Next challenge. The guidebooks refer to a bus service to get into town. No mention that you have to book. Doh. Also, not too many taxis outside for the 25km ride into town. Doh x 2. Anyway, eventually managed to get a taxi. The drive in to El Calafate is scenic too. I had forgotten what it is like to go into a really small town. The population seems to be between 7 and 10,000 depending on who you ask. Less than 0.01% of Buenos Aires. Takes a bit of getting used to. 


Arrived safely at our B&B, Casa de Grillos, which is owned and run by Alejandro and his wife Marta. Both are retired teachers from Rio Gallegos, on the Atlantic coast 300km away, who have been in town for just over a year. Alejandro is really sweet and helpful and is always keen to share what he knows of the local wildlife, places to go etc. We have not met Marta yet as she is in Buenos Aires at the moment.


The B&B is situated about 10 minutes walk from the centre of town towards the lake. We went for a walk to the lake in the afternoon past the bird sanctuary, which is about 500m away. It was a cold and blustery walk, but really good to get some fresh air.


We saw El Calafate’s equivalent of a gang war too. 4 local dogs decided to follow us on our walk. They were playing around and trying to nip each other, taking turns on who to pick on. The little one (who kept causing shit with the larger ones) kept running up and using us as a shield from the bigger dogs. One the way back from the lake there was a standoff. Another rival “gang” was in the road blocking our path. They sent an advance party. Our gang sent the little one. They all strutted some moves and then scampered off, tail between legs. 20 metres further they were all back to showing off mode – see how brave I was, etc.


Tomorrow, mini trekking on the glacier. Cant wait.

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Wild, wild west
Wild, wild west
El Calafate Hotels & Accommodations review
This charming B&B is owned and run by a retired couple, Alejandro and Marta. The place has 4 comfortable rooms which are each decorated individually a… read entire review
El Calafate
photo by: Vlindeke