Magical Mountain Town
October 14, 2007
After Chiang Dao, we drove up to a small mountain town called Mae Salong. The drive was beautiful, winding along small mountain roads with wonderful mountain panoramas. To get to Mae Salong, you turn off the main road and drive along a very tiny two-lane road that climbs and climbs up into the mountains. The day we went was crystal clear. I really love driving around up here on days like that when the sky is BLUE and the mountains are GREEN and it’s all complimented by a few fluffy WHITE clouds. So beautiful.
Mae Salong is a unique mountain village in that it is populated by Yunnanese Chinese who fought for the Kuomintang and fled China after the Communist victory in 1949. They fought their way out of China, led by General Tuan Shi-wen, and lived a nomadic life in Burma before seeking asylum in Mae Salong. In return for asylum granted by the Thai government and Thai citizenship, they fought against communist insurgents along the border until 1982. The area was previously famous for being one of the top opium growing and producing areas until the warlord Khun Sa was routed in the late 1980s. At that time, in an attempt to disassociate the area with its previous reputation, the Thai government renamed the town Santikhiri (meaning “hill of peace”), though it is still commonly known by its original name.
The town sits on the highest peak of the Doi Mae Salong range, lending it a temperate mountain climate that is always crisp and cool and quite cold during the winter months of November to February. The region is now famous for its high-quality Oolong tea. You can find many tea shops and agro-tourism and homestay farms in the area. We didn’t have a lot of time to explore since we spent most of the day driving there and then had to leave early the next morning, but it intrigued me enough to make me want to go back for more. There seemed like there was a lot to explore and we didn’t even scratch the surface.
You can get a mini-van up from Chiang Rai, but I would say if possible try and make the drive yourself so you can really enjoy it along the way. Though be warned that it’s only for the hearty and experienced driver. The roads are narrow and winding and more often than not you get stuck behind an overloaded farmer’s pick-up truck going about 20km/hour that you can only pass at peril to your own vehicle. All part of the adventure of driving in Thailand!
Overall I would say it was definitely worth the trip and somewhere I want to make a return trip to to explore more. It has a very unique feel to it and a sense of peace that you only get in a sleepy agrarian town. Combine that with the spectacular mountain setting and it’s a top spot in my books!
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mae_Salong
Mae Salong is a unique mountain village in that it is populated by Yunnanese Chinese who fought for the Kuomintang and fled China after the Communist victory in 1949. They fought their way out of China, led by General Tuan Shi-wen, and lived a nomadic life in Burma before seeking asylum in Mae Salong. In return for asylum granted by the Thai government and Thai citizenship, they fought against communist insurgents along the border until 1982. The area was previously famous for being one of the top opium growing and producing areas until the warlord Khun Sa was routed in the late 1980s. At that time, in an attempt to disassociate the area with its previous reputation, the Thai government renamed the town Santikhiri (meaning “hill of peace”), though it is still commonly known by its original name.
The town sits on the highest peak of the Doi Mae Salong range, lending it a temperate mountain climate that is always crisp and cool and quite cold during the winter months of November to February. The region is now famous for its high-quality Oolong tea. You can find many tea shops and agro-tourism and homestay farms in the area. We didn’t have a lot of time to explore since we spent most of the day driving there and then had to leave early the next morning, but it intrigued me enough to make me want to go back for more. There seemed like there was a lot to explore and we didn’t even scratch the surface.
You can get a mini-van up from Chiang Rai, but I would say if possible try and make the drive yourself so you can really enjoy it along the way. Though be warned that it’s only for the hearty and experienced driver. The roads are narrow and winding and more often than not you get stuck behind an overloaded farmer’s pick-up truck going about 20km/hour that you can only pass at peril to your own vehicle. All part of the adventure of driving in Thailand!
Overall I would say it was definitely worth the trip and somewhere I want to make a return trip to to explore more. It has a very unique feel to it and a sense of peace that you only get in a sleepy agrarian town. Combine that with the spectacular mountain setting and it’s a top spot in my books!
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mae_Salong
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Reasonable accommodation with a great view
The first trip up there we stayed at Mae Salong Villa. It had basic Thai-style rooms and for 800 baht we got a nice clean room with a lovely balcony and breakfast. We were also happy with the nice big comforter they provided on the bed, which we needed even in the middle of October. I would definitely recommend bring socks or slippers as the tile floors were pretty chilly once evening set in. We've seen a couple of rooms here and they can vary in quality, so maybe check out a couple. The room we stayed in was fine, but on a recent trip back we looked at another room and it smelled quite musty.
The balcony was perfect for sitting and watching the sun set and enjoying the peaceful surroundings. We could also watch local farmers drying their tea crop on the street below. The highlight of this spot is really enjoying the view from the nice spacious balcony. They have a couple of comfortable wicker chairs to sit on and it's a great spot to watch the sun set. They also had a nice big fridge in the room, so it's easy to bring your own beer/beverages to enjoy a sun-downer.
The balcony was perfect for sitting and watching the sun set and enjoying the peaceful surroundings. We could also watch local farmers drying their tea crop on the street below. The highlight of this spot is really enjoying the view from the nice spacious balcony. They have a couple of comfortable wicker chairs to sit on and it's a great spot to watch the sun set. They also had a nice big fridge in the room, so it's easy to bring your own beer/beverages to enjoy a sun-downer.

We came for the view and stayed for the pork
The highlight of our stay at Mae Salong Villa was dinner at the hotel restaurant. They had a combination Thai/Chinese menu with a few Yunnanese specialties. Our waitress recommended we try the grilled pork and pork spring rolls. Both were delicious, especially the grilled pork. I have never eaten such succulent, tender pork in my life. Mmmmmm… just thinking about it now makes me want to go back! My partner and I still talk about it and can’t wait to go back for more. There are quite a few different places to stay and I would like to explore more of those options next time I’m up there. But I would definitely go back to Mae Salong Villa for dinner!
UPDATE: We just went back to Mae Salong a couple days ago. We stayed in a different hotel, but we came back here for dinner. And we weren't disappointed!!! It was just as delicious as we remembered it. We also tried something else, the stir fried shitake mushrooms in soya sauce. They were also delectable. We bought a bag of dried mushrooms from a shop up there in the hopes of recreating the dish.
UPDATE: We just went back to Mae Salong a couple days ago. We stayed in a different hotel, but we came back here for dinner. And we weren't disappointed!!! It was just as delicious as we remembered it. We also tried something else, the stir fried shitake mushrooms in soya sauce. They were also delectable. We bought a bag of dried mushrooms from a shop up there in the hopes of recreating the dish.









