Trip through Croatia

Croatia Travel Blog

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Croatia is wonderful despite a rather large brain fart that went off at the border and just clouded all judgment to Dubrovnik. I would like to think I have this traveling thing down pat but what can I say… fucking Venice! That’s right blame Venice, 2 hours across the border. To see a small group of islands at the height of tourist season and stupidity is bound to wear off.  Not much for romance in 33 C temperature by 10am. Narrow streets of slow moving tourist stopping in front of each “Tourist Welcome” Murano glass shop and puppet store.  I dreamed that Godzilla appeared off the coast and the people scampered to the other side of the island thus sinking the damn thing.

On a good note.. I met and hitched with this lovely Belgian couple who we hung out from Verona thru Venice and had the great experience of meeting the Aussie couple who Emily loved Pieters’ girl Anzu’s ass and at 3:30 am asked me “I don’t want to offend you but I would like a threesome” and asked if I was bisexual and then said “Nick will be disappointed.” Never happened but a good laugh after they left.  The Belgians said they saw it coming but the vino had already taken its toll on my perception. Totally had no clue.  Before Venice I went to Bologna and anyone who reads this should go- Italys best kept secret!  Incredible! Full orchestra and opera to Phanton of the Opera, silent movie 1925 version on the big screen in the plaza.

 To Croatia!! Rule #1 take a cold shower and eat before boarding a train. At Trieste (border town) I should have gone to Slovenia, the capitol city Ljubljana but the darn guide book didn’t paint any sort of picture so I thought to go South and do a loopedy loop after dropping my 35kg backpack somewhere. #2 Being head to toe sweat just makes one completely aimless in quick decisions. Should have filled the belly and chilled for a few hours. So instead of going to Zagreb the capitol of Croatia (again the guidebook said the same thing “quaint, baroque small capitol city.”  And in hindsight, missing Slovenia was a big mistake but Zagreb- nothing special I hear.

So I moved to the UNESCO site called Split. This was the Roman capitol of the area in the times. The city itself is built over the large governors house that I went to underground and it was cool (really like air con)but that is it for Split. For the UNESCO thing, it has gotten out of hand. The first few years it was great for protection of culture but now I swear some cabin in upper Michigan will be valued as UNESCO in another 5yrs.

It has been explained to me over and over, the old Yugoslavia for Croatia is sorely missed and the idea of EU is welcomed. Under the old ways there was the coastal vacation site of Croatia, then the working region of Bosnia and Serbia but as it is now Croatia is basically on a 4 month working year and the rest of the time people feebly wish in 2 years they will be part of the EU.

This does make sense, industry will come back that has been vanquished after the war and the young independent educated can work throughout Europe (thus taking jobs away from the less ambitious English- good jab!)

In Split the prices for a dorm started at 200kuno a night, that is like 30 euro and just not going to happen. The hostel owners have only 4 months to recoup a years wage. So at this point I thought I did the right thing by staying awake, arriving from Trieste to Split (15hours) at 4am. I took some pics, went to the museum and bought a 11am ticket to Kocula Island (the biggest, not the best). Because it is at the height of tourist season every home is a “sobe”. Cheap alternative to a B&B. Rule #3  oh my god, what getting so drunk 3 nights that you can’t be bothered to do anything about the bed bugs- oh what have I done to my body! Just on one foot (thank god for small miracles) there are over 30 welts from bugs and itching.

Up and down the leg, on my but, ears, back, arms bites amassed. Eating loads of garlic prevents mosquito bites but bedbugs are immune. Then I went swimming, I jumped in and landed on a sea urchin- the foot has started to lower from the swelling just yesterday. Sea urchins are everywhere and the smart camper wears beach shoes. The water unfortunately had too much trash in it for a thoughtless swim. So ferrying back to mainland… thinking Dubrovnik said Drevnik?? So what was to be a smart economical move and scenic (island ferry hopping 100kn versus straight bus Split to Dubrovnik 115kn) Drevnik actually took me only 65km from Split, 135km to Dubrovnik and cost an extra 90kn. And, AND, AND the beaches between Split and Dubrovnik are so god damn beautiful, if you throw in the women- oh lala! I did go swimming again and sand, turquoise sea- oh lovely.
No trash or sea urchins. I am sorry to say I have no pictures of the this cause as easy as it is to hitch on the islands (2x one end to the other and back), having made the ferry mistake I decided to hitch and I walked 10kms without a ride, drenched in sweat I went swimming, got out and didn't think to take a photo until I got on the bus. 

Speaking of women- does 15 yrs old count? Does culture make a difference? It didn’t happen but... So she is the best bar’s bartender on Kocula Island. So you don’t think to quiz her on her age. You think a cute 21-24 yrs old. Well I came very close to wanting to kiss a 15 yr old at 3am- she doesn’t look any different from girls I met in Dubrovnik who are 26. The mentality it is said by  the Croatian men 15 doesn’t matter (it is the new 25), it is common and don’t be so moral.

Maybe in this part of the world...the women kind of hit stride intellectually at 15 and hold there unless they go to uni. Or get pregnant. Compared to the American 24 yr old girl conversations I have taken place now in this café- something can be said about the 15 yr old European girl. Makes my brain fart  seem like a hit of Oxygen.  Anywho just a funny story.

Dubrovnik should be avoided during July and August. It is lovely, the old city is walled and juts out from the coast. Outrageous prices in the old town (think London)but where I am staying, 20 minutes walk from and in front of the harbor it is fine (think Italy). I met a Croatian family, they own a  sobe, the family has made me coffee every morning, stuffed peppers at night, no English except for the Bosnian waiter who also stays there.

The family and friends visit me have good communication, I like it. The air does have a depressing undertone to it, noone is working and dependent on the tourist who stay. They only have 2 rooms to rent and don't make much. I bought beer for alittle party last night. Mom has rubbed olive oil on my bed bug welts, stripped my sweaty clothes at 11pm the first night and it has been wonderful. On the first full day, I met a Croatian man who comes here from Australia for holiday 3 months a year. One to be weary of, he calls himself the spiritual leader of women (as in the Dalai Lama and Buddhist) and oh does he pay… yeow he pays but it was fun hanging out with him and the girls for a day. He shrugs it off, "I am getting old and I must pay if I want young girls around me.
" Personally I can’t do this yet, it may be inevitable and I may be missing on travel experience therefore I should but I can’t… yet. I do like the fact he doesn’t drink, here the cafes are full of men with expresso or beer by 10am. I think not drinking may be a good step to holding on a few brain cells. I will be in Sarajevo tomorrow night. The Bosnian staying at the sobe, went on and on about the food in Sarajevo. He said people don't drink so much there, he likes Croatia. The old man, cousin of the owner did the old finger in the hole trick when Mom wasn’t looking to indicate good sex tales so it is.

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