... Mostar: Under the Bridge ...
Mostar Travel Blog› entry 15 of 17 › view all entries
"Every city has an image... St. Petersburg looks like an aristocrate with full of medals which pledges to save the meories of Tsardom of Russia... Paris is like a museum which carved the majesty of French Revolution on its alluring cut-stones... Damascus is like a veil of silence on its temples which made by its old possessors... Baghdad is like the voice of a dervish who gets a new fracture on his body when this world moves... Istanbul is an imperial throne which is full of wounds by arrows but still has to survive to keep its nobleness ...
Big or small, all cities are valuable not only because of they have a body, but also they can keep both a memory and an image in the same time. This is the thing which distinguishes some cities from the others which are just a single point on the map...
Mostar is neither have marvellous buildings like St.
irreconcilable pyramids like Cairo... However, both its memory and its image of reality to humanity gives Mostar supremacy to say something to the other mighty cities of the world.
The reason is clear: This little city was engraved by apprentices who were ready to organize the nature with their talents to gain mastership... and definitely those apprentices who do not know the meaning of fatigue carved the stones while knowing that only time is able to give the authorization of mastership and they will not be able to see this prize in their short life. Maybe beacuse of this reason, Mostar is the city of future where hosted invisible dervishes on its shoulders. Maybe it is the reason that Mostar offers its gracious visitors an apprenticeship of nature with its timeless cumulative experience beyond the seasons, instead the sleeping of past.
I prefer this short passage to provide a definition about this lovely city instead using classic and tourist clichés like "Aww, what a city.. like a fairytale ... etc etc". Instead these kind of light definitions, I would prefer something better and more realistic about Mostar, a very melancholic city of Herzegovina part of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
After leaving Dubrovnik, and passing through Neum twice on your way to Mostar, you can easily realize the change in geography. Instead the blue color of Adriatic, now you're seeing the endless green of the Neretva Valley as a dominant color. Just follow the legendary Neretva River, you will arrive Mostar.
Mostar is the second biggest city of Bosnia-Herzegovina... a small city with big bullet holes and scars on the buildings, tombstones with "year of death is 1993" written on them... so sad and offending... famous Mostar Bridge (Stari Most) over the river Neretva is just fantastic, like a farirytale (oh no, clichés :P)
Bridge and the bazaar in the perimeter is the touristic center of the city. Gifts shops, restaurants, café/bar/pubs etc. everything is around here. Wherever I went, I saw a friendly approach by local people here, probably it was easy for them understanding I'm from Turkey, they were trying to speak in Turkish with me in a very basic but kindly way.
You'll see a small mosque which is very close to the old bridge, and it's a perfect point to take some pictures of it.
Also, there is a diving club on the old bridge, and if you're lucky enough, you might see a man who is diving through the river from the bridge, or for an amount like 20 euro, you can create your luck as well (damn you, capitalism! =P)
The other side of the bridge, you'll see Tara Tower and Museum. It's a decent museum about the history of bridge from the old ages passing through Venetian, Ottoman and Austurian periods to today. You'll see the history of the construction process on a 3D animation, a documentary about destruction of the bridge during the Yugoslavian War and reconstruction after the war.
I recommend you to drink water from the public fountains, it tastes amazing and very refreshing in a hot summer day.
For the nightlife and clubbing, I heard Ali Baba's Cave is very famous in this town. Also it's open during the day.
Also, I strongly recommend a visit to Pocitelj (Pochee-Tely) and Blagaj (Bla-guy). First one is a traditional Ottoman village approx. 20 mins away from Mostar by driving. The second one is a dervish convent on an amazing location, next to a water source and a hillside.
One single thing... you will also see the ugliest bell tower of the world in Mostar. This sentence has no relation to any religious or ethnical point of view, but just a personal opinion of an urban planner (in this case that would be me). I saw beautiful churches with their amazing architectural heritage, even in ex-Yugoslavia. But this one... is just UGLY! Probably the unskilled and tasteless architect was just the hitman of the "sick" idea behind that cultural assasination. Sorry ... I got to say this to show some respect both to the amazing designers of planning heritage and the reasonable people of Mostar.