... Mostar: Under the Bridge ...

Mostar Travel Blog

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... the amazing neretva valley ...

"Every city has an image... St. Petersburg looks like an aristocrate with full of medals which pledges to save the meories of Tsardom of Russia... Paris is like a museum which carved the majesty of French Revolution on its alluring cut-stones... Damascus is like a veil of silence on its temples which made by its old possessors... Baghdad is like the voice of a dervish who gets a new fracture on his body when this world moves... Istanbul is an imperial throne which is full of wounds by arrows but still has to survive to keep its nobleness ...

Big or small, all cities are valuable not only because of they have a body, but also they can keep both a memory and an image in the same time. This is the thing which distinguishes some cities from the others which are just a single point on the map...

Mostar is neither have marvellous buildings like St.

... a traditional house in pocitelj village ...
Petersburg, nor revolution monuments like Paris, or
irreconcilable pyramids like Cairo... However, both its memory and its image of reality to humanity gives Mostar supremacy to say something to the other mighty cities of the world.

The reason is clear: This little city was engraved by apprentices who were ready to organize the nature with their talents to gain mastership... and definitely those apprentices who do not know the meaning of fatigue carved the stones while knowing that only time is able to give the authorization of mastership and they will not be able to see this prize in their short life.  Maybe beacuse of this reason, Mostar is the city of future where hosted invisible dervishes on its shoulders. Maybe it is the reason that Mostar offers its gracious visitors an apprenticeship of nature with its timeless cumulative experience beyond the seasons, instead the sleeping of past.

... a nightview of the old bridge ...
.. "

I prefer this short passage to provide a definition about this lovely city instead using classic and tourist clichés like "Aww, what a city.. like a fairytale ... etc etc". Instead these kind of light definitions, I would prefer something better and more realistic about Mostar, a very melancholic city of Herzegovina part of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

After leaving Dubrovnik, and passing through Neum twice on your way to Mostar, you can easily realize the change in geography. Instead the blue color of Adriatic, now you're seeing the endless green of the Neretva Valley as a dominant color. Just follow the legendary Neretva River, you will arrive Mostar.

... war souvenirs ...
 

Mostar is the second biggest city of Bosnia-Herzegovina... a small city with big bullet holes and scars on the buildings, tombstones with "year of death is 1993" written on them... so sad and offending... famous Mostar Bridge (Stari Most) over the river Neretva is just fantastic, like a farirytale (oh no, clichés :P)

Bridge and the bazaar in the perimeter is the touristic center of  the city. Gifts shops, restaurants, café/bar/pubs etc. everything is around here. Wherever I went, I saw a friendly approach by local people here, probably it was easy for them understanding I'm from Turkey, they were trying to speak in Turkish with me in a very basic but kindly way. 

You'll see a small mosque which is very close to the old bridge, and it's a perfect point to take some pictures of it.

... the small bridge ...
By the way, they charge an entry fee for the mosque if you're a tourist, but if you will pray inside (for muslims), it's free. 

Also, there is a diving club on the old bridge, and if you're lucky enough, you might see a man who is diving through the river from the bridge, or for an amount like 20 euro, you can create your luck as well (damn you, capitalism! =P)

The other side of the bridge, you'll see Tara Tower and Museum. It's a decent museum about the history of bridge from the old ages passing through Venetian, Ottoman and Austurian periods to today. You'll see the history of the construction process on a 3D animation, a documentary about destruction of the bridge during the Yugoslavian War and reconstruction after the war. 

I recommend you to drink water from the public fountains, it tastes amazing and very refreshing in a hot summer day.

... a view of Mostar from tara tower ...
Don't be shy to try Bosnian Coffee. One single tip, if you say Coffee (or Kava), they usually bring espresso. You might need to indicate "Bosnian" or "Turkish" Coffee in your order. You can try the restaurants in that area, probably all of them are pretty good. I tried Hindin Han (feel free to check my review) but I heard Sadrvan is also pretty nice. Prices are pretty reasonable.

For the nightlife and clubbing, I heard Ali Baba's Cave is very famous in this town. Also it's open during the day. 

Also, I strongly recommend a visit to Pocitelj (Pochee-Tely) and Blagaj (Bla-guy). First one is a traditional Ottoman village approx. 20 mins away from Mostar by driving. The second one is a dervish convent on an amazing location, next to a water source and a hillside.

... bosnian coffee ...
I was able to visit Pocitelj, but unfortunately no chance to see Blagaj.  Also, I couldn't see traditional Ottoman House Museum and Koski Mehmet Pasha Mosque, the other two must see attractions of the city offers, but I'm sure I will visit Mostar again. Maybe sooner than I expect ...

 

One single thing... you will also see the ugliest bell tower of the world in Mostar. This sentence has no relation to any religious or ethnical point of view, but just a personal opinion of an urban planner (in this case that would be me). I saw beautiful churches with their amazing architectural heritage, even in ex-Yugoslavia. But this one... is just UGLY! Probably the unskilled and tasteless architect was just the hitman of the "sick" idea behind that cultural assasination. Sorry ... I got to say this to show some respect both to the amazing designers of planning heritage and the reasonable people of Mostar.  

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... the amazing neretva valley ...
... the amazing neretva valley ...
... a traditional house in pocitel…
... a traditional house in pocite…
... a nightview of the old bridge …
... a nightview of the old bridge…
... war souvenirs ...
... war souvenirs ...
... the small bridge ...
... the small bridge ...
... a view of Mostar from tara tow…
... a view of Mostar from tara to…
... bosnian coffee ...
... bosnian coffee ...
... a fertile corner of neretva va…
... a fertile corner of neretva v…
... grape fields & wineries ...
... grape fields & wineries ...
... neretva river ...
... neretva river ...
... another view from pocitelj at …
... another view from pocitelj at…
... before and after war vol.1 ...
... before and after war vol.1 ...
... before and after war vol.2 ...
... before and after war vol.2 ...
... a stone engraving detail ...
... a stone engraving detail ...
... another detail inside the mosq…
... another detail inside the mos…
... a garden terrace in pocitelj .…
... a garden terrace in pocitelj …
... bosnian cat & my host ...
... bosnian cat & my host ...
... the bosnian cat ...
... the bosnian cat ...
... a night view from pocitelj ...
... a night view from pocitelj ...
... another house in pocitelj ...
... another house in pocitelj ...
... old bridge (stari most) @ nigh…
... old bridge (stari most) @ nig…
... tara tower @ night ...
... tara tower @ night ...
... a mosque @ night ...
... a mosque @ night ...
... small bridge @ night ...
... small bridge @ night ...
... priceless ...
... priceless ...
... =) ...
... =) ...
... flowers in the green zone ...
... flowers in the green zone ...
... chicago holes :P ...
... chicago holes :P ...
... another war souvenir ...
... another war souvenir ...
... ? ...
... ? ...
... high school ...
... high school ...
... old bridge bazaar ...
... old bridge bazaar ...
... interior of the small mosque a…
... interior of the small mosque …
... stari most ...
... stari most ...
... neretva river from the bridge …
... neretva river from the bridge…
... muslim neighborhood from the b…
... muslim neighborhood from the …
... cafe/bar/pubs next to the rive…
... cafe/bar/pubs next to the riv…
Mostar Restaurants, Cafes & Food review
... great scenery, great taste, great value ...
Before I visited Mostar, I read something about this restaurant from another personal blog. It was highly recommended on the article, so I did definit… read entire review
Mostar Sights & Attractions review
... spare some time to see the history of the bridge ...
The Old Bridge (Stari Most) is the symbol of Mostar and a world famous landmark. Do you want to learn more about the history of this bridge which give… read entire review
Mostar
photo by: brcko