Troubled Streets Of Sarajevo
Sarajevo Travel Blog› entry 13 of 23 › view all entries
No great rush this morning,and even my daughter went for breakfast :O, leaving me the odd one out. Headed out at 9-30 and walked round in an indirect way to the Sarajeva Muzej, since it never opened until 10am . We walked down to the Bascarsija and cut left down a street full of metal workshops with all there wares in bronze,silver and gold on display and the sound of hammers on metal as the guys worked away. Came out of the Old Town onto the main road opposite the Emperor's Mosque and by the time we idled along the museum was open.
You're not going to get lost in here,nor spend a whole load of time as it is just one room covering the Austo-Hungarian period from 1878 - 1918 and includes a bit about the assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand, and the assassin Gavrilo Princip and the others involved in the plot.
Having seen about as much as we could, we decided to follow the plan, that I had made up yesterday, and head out to the newer part of town and then trace back what our guide yesterday had pointed out along the route.
Going inside there were some Greek and Roman stuff, but that wasn't what we were here to see. Upstairs is the Sarajevo Haggadah, one of the oldest Jewish books in existance. Thought to have been done in about 1350 in Spain, there was an exodus of Jews from Spain during the Inquisition, and turned up in Italy for a while before showing up in Sarajevo.
There were a few other sections to see, one with a mock up of and old Bosnian House and another with womens costumes from various regions of Bosnia And Herzegovina.
Coming out we walked along back towards town, with the Holiday Inn opposite the museum. It was the only hotel in the city that remained operational throughout the siege, mostly accomodating TV and Press reporters. Even yet, it still bears the scars of war on the walls.
Just a little further along on the right is the rebuilt Parliament of Bosnia And Herzegovina, with a big admin tower built beside it. Across from there is the Church Of St joseph, never found out anything about it, it just looked nice :). Came to the split in the road, where it kind of becomes a one way system for the main road, with the road by the river taking traffic and trams in towards Bascarsija and the one we went on Marsala Tita being the outward road.
A little further along you'll find a water feature which is the Memorial To The Killed Children Of Sarajevo, though our guide when passing it referred to the Murdered Children, again part of the ongoing resentment you pick in the language of the locals. Beside it are revolving drums bearing the names of the children and their dates of birth and death, some were in their teens and others were but babies.
Normally when my kids see something like those drums they would spin them round just to see how fast they would go, but not here. They studied the names and the dates. As we were about to move on I said to get a picture of the kids beside the Memorial, with my train of thought being how lucky I was to have mine, but my daughter with a previously unknown degree of sensitivity was really uncomfortable with it and just kept walking on.
On a bit more and the Marsala Tita veers to the left and becomes Mula Mustafe Baseskije and the pedestrian area of the Old town opens up.
Carried on along up Mula Mustafe Baseskije and we came to the Markale Market, scene of the worst atrocity of the siege when 68 people were killed while shopping in the fruit market when it was stuck by a mortar in February 1994 and another 37 killed in a similar attack in August 1995 . No sign of any memorials here, or any lingering damage, perhaps the best thing in a city where they tried to rip out the heart was to rebuild it as it was and to carry on as a busy thriving market.
Wife was wanting a coffee and she and my son went off while my daughter and I carried on to the Old Jewish Synagogue and then found an old section of wall that I still don't know what it was, but it's picture was on one of the tourist Info maps so we just went .
We then went looking for some postcards, me to send and my daughter was buying them from the places we stopped for a friend that collects them. All met up again at the Bascarsija, and I again had a look at the map to see what we hadn't seen yeat and headed out and over the river. went to see the Turbeh Burial Chamber, but it didn't reall look like much, and then headed along to the Franciscan Monastery And The Church Of St Anthony of Padua . Sit rather nicely besde the Sarajevska Pivara ( beer factory) and they both look to have been built of the same stuff and painted the same colour and blend in well together.
Got back to the river and found another information map.
Made up to the Kozija Cuprija, which rather didappointly ater all that translated as the Goat Bridge, and had been used for driving the goats to markert in Sarajevo.
Headed back to the hotel, buying a few more beers on the way, and guy at reception said he would order us a cab in the morning when we were ready to go. So off we went and sorted it so we had as little do as possible in the morning.