Troubled Streets Of Sarajevo

Sarajevo Travel Blog

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Metal Work Shops

No great rush this morning,and even my daughter went for breakfast :O, leaving me the odd one out. Headed out at 9-30 and walked round  in an indirect way to the Sarajeva Muzej, since it never opened until 10am . We walked down to the Bascarsija and cut left down a street full of metal workshops with all there wares in bronze,silver and gold on display and the sound of hammers on metal as the guys worked away. Came out of the Old Town onto the main road opposite the Emperor's Mosque and by the time we idled along the museum was open.

You're not going to get lost in here,nor spend a whole load of time as it is just one room covering the Austo-Hungarian period from 1878 - 1918 and includes a bit about the assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand, and the assassin Gavrilo Princip and the others involved in the plot.

Gavrilo Princip And The Other Assassins
We were about half way round when we saw Kevin appear in the museum. Kevin asked what had happed to Princip after the assassination, and I was able to tell him, that he had failed to shoot himself, the cyanide he and his accomplices had was out of date and only made them sick, and then he threw himself in the Miljacka River, failing to drown himself since it was only 2ft deep, and was arrested in the park acrosss the river. Being under 20, just, he was to young to be executed, and ended up dying of TB in prison a few years later. Sounded impressive, but I did have to confess that I had only just found all the detail out from my daughter who had studied it all in history. Shocking day when your children become interesting and useful :O.

Having seen about as much as we could, we decided to follow the plan, that I had made up yesterday, and head out to the newer part of town and then trace back what our guide yesterday had pointed out along the route.

Bogomil Stechaks
Walked out to the National Museum Of Bosnia And Herzegovina. Just outside the National Museum, and later in the courtyard were some strange tombstones. Found out they were Bogomil  stechaks, a kind of protestant sect that existed in the Balkans, bfore Protestantism and that they were buried differently and heretically according to the Catholic Church.

Going inside there were some Greek and Roman stuff, but that wasn't what we were here to see. Upstairs is the Sarajevo Haggadah, one of the oldest Jewish books in existance. Thought to have been done in about 1350 in Spain, there was an exodus of Jews from Spain during the Inquisition, and turned up in Italy for a while before showing up in Sarajevo.

Sarajevo Haggadah
The book from using the interactive screen display at it is full of pictures of Old testament stories. Had been told about it by our guide the day. It had been stored in the Old City Hall Library, during the siege the library was shelled and set on fire. Much of the written history and culture of Bosnia And Herzegovina were kept here and people tried to save what they could from being destroyed, and 8 people lost their lives that night :( ,  killed by snipers as they attempted to preserve what they could. The Sarajevo Haggadah is now stored here in a bomb proof/fire proof room of the National Museum. Also of note here is that all through the siege the Museum employees turned up for work almost every day to try to protect the contents, despite the building itself taking over 100 hits from bullets,shrapnel and shells.
Momo & Uzeir, UNIS Towers
 Our guide had explained these things being deliberately targeted, and the same had happened in Mostar with the Stari Most, and wasn't the result of any stray armourments but a deliberate attempt at Culturecide.  

There were a few other sections to see, one with a mock up of and old Bosnian House and another with womens costumes from various regions of Bosnia And Herzegovina. 

Coming out we walked along back towards town, with the Holiday Inn opposite the museum. It was the only hotel in the city that remained operational throughout the siege, mostly accomodating TV and Press reporters. Even yet, it still bears the scars of war on the walls.

Sarajevo Rose On the Pavement
I would reckon if they really wanted to the Holiday Inn would have fixed it themselves, but choose to leave it as a bit of an attraction for the hotel. Behind the Holiday Inn is the two towers of the UNIS, nicknamed Momo & Uzeir, two characters popular in Sarajevan jokes, one a Serb and one a Muslim.

Just a little further along on the right is the rebuilt Parliament of Bosnia And Herzegovina, with a big admin tower built beside it. Across from there is the Church Of St joseph, never found out anything about it, it just looked nice :). Came to the split in the road, where it kind of becomes a one way system for the main road, with the road by the river taking traffic and trams in towards Bascarsija and the one we went on Marsala Tita  being the outward road.

Memorial To the Killed Children Of Sarajevo
Contrast in buildings that had been reapaired and ones that hadn't   and we carried along past the Ali-Pasha Mosque and came to the Presedential Palace, where there were a few folk coming and going. Walking on the other side from it, if you look at the down at the pavement you will see one of the Sarajevo Roses. These are sites where shells exploded killing people, but instead of just repairing them they were filled with a red resin to mark the spot of peoples death.

A little further along you'll find a water feature which is the Memorial To The Killed Children Of Sarajevo, though our guide when passing it referred to the Murdered Children, again part of the ongoing resentment you pick in the language of the locals. Beside it are revolving drums bearing the names of the children and their dates of birth and death, some were in their teens and others were but babies.

My Kids Looking At The Names And Ages Of The Children Killed
 Quite sad when you see the ages of the children  and of the over 11,000 killed during the siege between 1300- 1500 of them were children, many shot by snipers, and only around 1000 active military service personnel were killed.

Normally when my kids see something like those drums they would spin them round just to see how fast they would go, but not here. They studied the names and the dates. As we were about to move on I said to get a picture  of the kids beside the Memorial, with my train of thought being how lucky I was to have mine, but my daughter with a previously unknown degree of sensitivity was really uncomfortable with it and just kept walking on. 

On a bit more and the Marsala Tita veers to the left and becomes Mula Mustafe Baseskije and the pedestrian area of the Old town opens up.

Drums With Names And Dates Of Children Killed
At the junction there, at the bottom of a yellow building, is the Eternal Flame. Not to do with more recent events but to the Yugoslav Army and presumably the liberation of the town in WWII, as the date inscribed on it is 6th April 1945.

Carried on along up Mula Mustafe Baseskije and we came to the Markale Market, scene of the worst atrocity of the siege when 68 people were killed while shopping in the fruit market when it was stuck by a mortar in February 1994 and another 37 killed in a similar attack in August 1995 . No sign of any memorials here, or any lingering damage, perhaps the best thing in a city where they tried to rip out the heart was to rebuild it as it was and to carry on as a busy thriving market.

Wife was wanting a coffee and she and my son went off while my daughter and I carried on to the Old Jewish Synagogue and then found an old section of wall that I still don't know what it was, but it's picture was on one of the tourist Info maps so we just went .

Markale
Walked back along the Ferhadija and went into the courtyard of the Gazi Husrev-Beg's Mosque for a look around.

We then went looking for some postcards, me to send and my daughter was buying them from the places we stopped for a friend that collects them. All met up again at the Bascarsija, and I again had a look at the map to see what we hadn't seen yeat and headed out and over the river. went to see the Turbeh Burial Chamber, but it didn't reall look like much, and then headed along to the Franciscan Monastery And The Church Of St Anthony of Padua . Sit rather nicely besde the Sarajevska Pivara ( beer factory) and they both look to have been built of the same stuff and painted the same colour and blend in well together.

Got back to the river and found another information map.

Sarajevo Brewery
It had been a busy day so far, but something else caught the eye, a brige upriver. We headed of up out of town and round the main road to where we came to Allee Ambassador and headed down there to follow the path along the river. There is a wall that runs along the path and there are bricks and plaques with the names of all the countries, and UN, ambassadors to Bosnia And Herzegovina. Found a sign and it was a 2.5km walk up to where we wanted to go, so we went anyway :D  . felt more likeout in the country with little sign of the city and heading into the hills, but perfectly safe as it was a tarred road all the way up, and only the traffic on the bridges over the valley gave away we were near Sarajevo.

Made up to the Kozija Cuprija, which rather didappointly ater all that translated as the Goat Bridge, and had been used for driving the goats to markert in Sarajevo.

Kozija Cuprija
I climbed down under the bridge and sat on the bank with my feet in the water for a bit before we headed back into town. Went back to the hotel to get changed and packed,as much as possible, since the bus would leve at 7am in the morning, and then headed out for dinner. went down into the main square and went left for a change into  Bravadziluk, which seemed lined with restaurants. we chose a Bosnian Steak House, and as the evening wore on the street filled with smoke from all the cooking going on.

Headed back to the hotel, buying a few more beers on the way, and guy at reception said he would order us a cab in the morning when we were ready to go. So off we went and sorted it so we had as little do as possible in the morning.

Cekrekcinica Mosque
 

 

rotorhead85 says:
Nice, informative blog!
Posted on: Jul 25, 2010
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Metal Work Shops
Metal Work Shops
Gavrilo Princip And The Other Assa…
Gavrilo Princip And The Other Ass…
Bogomil Stechaks
Bogomil Stechaks
Sarajevo Haggadah
Sarajevo Haggadah
Momo & Uzeir, UNIS Towers
Momo & Uzeir, UNIS Towers
Sarajevo Rose On the Pavement
Sarajevo Rose On the Pavement
Memorial To the Killed Children Of…
Memorial To the Killed Children O…
My Kids Looking At The Names And A…
My Kids Looking At The Names And …
Drums With Names And Dates Of Chil…
Drums With Names And Dates Of Chi…
Markale
Markale
Sarajevo Brewery
Sarajevo Brewery
Kozija Cuprija
Kozija Cuprija
Cekrekcinica Mosque
Cekrekcinica Mosque
Street With All the Metal Workers
Street With All the Metal Workers
Emperors Mosque
Emperor's Mosque
Heading Down to the Latin Bridge
Heading Down to the Latin Bridge
Archduke Franz Ferdinand touring S…
Archduke Franz Ferdinand touring …
Map Of Austo-Hungarian Empire
Map Of Austo-Hungarian Empire
Latin Bridge And Muzej Sarajeva
Latin Bridge And Muzej Sarajeva
National Museum Of Bosnia And Herz…
National Museum Of Bosnia And Her…
Courtyard Inside The Museum
Courtyard Inside The Museum
Stechak Carved With A Deer On It
Stechak Carved With A Deer On It
Holiday Inn Sarajevo
Holiday Inn Sarajevo
Still Bullet Holes On The Holiday …
Still Bullet Holes On The Holiday…
Flags At The Parliament
Flags At The Parliament
Parliament of Bosnia And Herzegovi…
Parliament of Bosnia And Herzegov…
Church Of St Joseph
Church Of St Joseph
Buildings Done Up In Sarajevo
Buildings Done Up In Sarajevo
Contrast In Buildings
Contrast In Buildings
Passing The Ali-Pasha Mosque
Passing The Ali-Pasha Mosque
Presedential Palace
Presedential Palace
Marsala Tita
Marsala Tita
Eternal Flame In Sarajevo
Eternal Flame In Sarajevo
Inside The Markale
Inside The Markale
Old Jewish Synagogue
Old Jewish Synagogue
Sife Of Old Jewish Synagogue
Sife Of Old Jewish Synagogue
An Old Wall (?)
An Old Wall (?)
Courtyard Of The Gazi Husrev-Begs…
Courtyard Of The Gazi Husrev-Beg'…
Waiting At The Sebjil
Waiting At The Sebjil
Turbeh Burial Chamber of The Seven…
Turbeh Burial Chamber of The Seve…
Sarajevska Pivara
Sarajevska Pivara
Franciscan Monastery And The Churc…
Franciscan Monastery And The Chur…
Tunnel Heading Up To The Kozija Cu…
Tunnel Heading Up To The Kozija C…
Park Outside Sarajevo
Park Outside Sarajevo
Hills Out Towards The Goat Bridge
Hills Out Towards The Goat Bridge
Walking Back to Sarajevo
Walking Back to Sarajevo
Fort On Hill Above Sarajevo
Fort On Hill Above Sarajevo
Sebjil In The Evening
Sebjil In The Evening
Sarajevo Sights & Attractions review
Zemaljski Muzej Bosne I Hercegovine ( National Museum)
Had picked up on here from tour guide the day before. The main reason for coming was to see the Sarajevo Haggadah, one of the oldest Jewish books in e… read entire review
Sarajevo Sights & Attractions review
Muzej Sarajeva 1878-1918
As I have quoted to a few here already, former British Prime Minister, Winston Churchill once said ' The Balkans produce more history than they can co… read entire review
Sarajevo Restaurants, Cafes & Food review
Bosanska Kuca
In a street full of restaurants, it has a big banner up proclaiming itself as the best restaurant in town. Maybe not ;), but it was OK. Had a reall… read entire review
Sarajevo
photo by: herman_munster