Too Slow to Go

Caye Caulker Travel Blog

 › entry 11 of 13 › view all entries
Just what we did

Since we had planned to make the long day trip to Lamanai on Saturday, we reserved the 9th for another lazy day. We had originally thought about going to San Pedro, but really heard nothing redeeming about it. Most people lamented that it was an overdeveloped, overpriced tourist trap and that Caulker was much better. While I did want to see more of the country, I was enjoying the relaxed pace and was tired of rushing around. Mark agreed and we spent the day enjoying what islands offer the best: that "go slow" attitude and pace.

Truth be told, the day started off with rain. We imagined it was finally the downpour that we'd expected to see but hadn't yet.

If only I could look up and see coconuts every day!
After all, it was the rainy season and we really didn't have to deal with much rain. It seemed that any plans would be put aside, but within 15 minutes the showers had passed and the sandy roads were starting to dry up as we walked to breakfast.

We snacked on waffles with "Dutch cheese" and tortillas at a little shack a couple blocks away from the hotel. I wanted some good coffee and had passed by Cafe Amor which had been highly recommended, so we mosied down the street to have a second breakfast. We ran into the girls again--all of them. Ellen, Kathleen and Ellie were sitting at a table on the street level and Jacquie and Erin sat on the upper level. We grabbed the only table left, which was perfectly small enough to fit us both and our mugs of coffee. We also ordered a grilled cheese with pineapple as a supplement to the previous food intake.

Mark sports a new do
The cofee was delicious and genuinely Belizean. In fact, it was roasted on Caye Caulker itself!

Mark went to get a haircut at the local barber, George. Nicknamed "Georgy Porgy," his "shop" consisted of nothing but a chair on the cement porch outside his house, right in the open. While Mark got his ears lowered, I went to the post office and purchased some postage stamps and mailed a letter. I also went to a grocery store and grabbed some bottled water and a few souvenir sized hot sauce bottles and a tiny jar of honey. Mark was still getting the haircut, but when we was done it looked pretty good. I think the cost was less than $5 but it was a much better cut than you'd expect.

It was a truly lazy day the rest of the afternoon. We still didn't quite make it to the beach, but we did go back for more massages.

Burger joint
However, we had to split up this time. Mark went first and got another massage while I did some shopping, ate a burger and checked emails. Then I went in for my "aura cleansing," which I'd never even heard of before I saw it on their "menu" of options. At first, it was just like the other massage, which of course was magnificent. Then Eva, my masseuse, placed stones all over my face, chest and hands, and started doing various types of energy techniques. I really don't know what all she did, but the music had changed, the scents were different (aromatherapy) and eventually there were chimes at various points. As she passed her hands over my body, I definitely felt a life force of some kind moving.
Relaxing island view
It was odd, because while I was relaxed, I was fully conscious and was probably even a bit skeptical that anything would feel that different. But I noticed my hands twitching involuntarily when she was done performing reiki, or whatever. When it was all over, I felt in a haze. It was like the world got quieter and softer, and I wasn't sure if I was partially suspended above the ground when I walked. At least that's the best I can do to try and describe the sensation.

Eva explained to me that I might feel an overwhelming sensation of emotions, such as sadness. This could even make me cry, but it really depends on the circumstances in my life and who I have interacted with. It was all fascinating. I asked how often one should have their aura cleansed. Again, she said it depends on how frequently you interact with negative energy, but a good average is once a year.

Mark stuffing himself with cheap lobster
She halfheartedly suggested that I should limit my alcohol intake, as that would interfere with the cleansing, but of course she knew we were on an island where drinking is a major pastime, and didn't seem to be too worried. 

We walked back to the hotel to shower. All the way, I was wondering if I would suddenly break down in tears during dinner or have some kind of emotional collapse, but it wasn't so bad. I did feel light and airy, and much more clear-headed. I tried to take her advice about the alcohol, and although I didn't overdo it, I did not abstain entirely.

For dinner, we went to another street food location just a block from our hotel. I believe the place was known as "Big Daddy's" for the enormous man who cooked the food and beckoned to passersby to come eat.

Skittish crab under the dinner table
When we noticed that a lobster dinner for $25 BZ was on the menu, it didn't take much convincing. We ran into Omri and his girlfriend Yael, who had also planned to eat there again. Apparently they ate the night before and enjoyed it more than Fran's or any other place. It turns out that Fran was Big Daddy's sister. Interesting form of competition here: everyone seems to be related, so it's really not competition but an extended family business.

The special included a small lobster, mashed potatoes, rice & vegetables, garlic toast and a couple rum punches...all for about $12.50 US. But they also had another special that was grilled barracuda and all the sides for $20 BZ, so I got that since I'd already had lobster and knew I'd be tasting some of Mark's. Everything was delicious, and I was pleased about my selection.

The Cake Lady and her amazing chocolate coconut pie
The barracuda steak was very flavorful. When Omri and Yael were finished and left, Mark was still eating. He noticed they hadn't finished their lobster and ended up eating both of their leftovers too, which included a lot of meat. I was stuffed from my own barracuda so I just watched Mark pile up lobster shells next to his plate.

While we were eating, I saw a blue crab scurrying across the sand next to me. At one point, I had to lift my legs onto the seat to escape an accidental snap by his claws. We saw several crabs just crawling around everywhere, as if they were cockroaches or other common critter. They have spider-like tendencies but yet don't really get to me like a real spider would.

Later in the night we found the self-dubbed Cake Lady. And she was a hoot, not to mention an excellent cook. We tried a piece of the chocolate coconut pie, which was literally to die for. Well, actually not, because I would want to live to have another piece! Thus ended a nice, lazy day. I made it through without incident, but the aura cleansing was definitely a refreshing treat.

Join TravBuddy to leave comments, meet new friends and share travel tips!
Just what we did
Just what we did
If only I could look up and see co…
If only I could look up and see c…
Mark sports a new do
Mark sports a new do
Burger joint
Burger joint
Relaxing island view
Relaxing island view
Mark stuffing himself with cheap l…
Mark stuffing himself with cheap …
Skittish crab under the dinner tab…
Skittish crab under the dinner ta…
The Cake Lady and her amazing choc…
The Cake Lady and her amazing cho…
5,821 km (3,617 miles) traveled
Sponsored Links
Caye Caulker
photo by: vulindlela