Tour of Ancona and Le Marche

Ancona Travel Blog

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Gio and Scott view from the faro
Gio came by at 0900 and we drove back to the Duomo San Ciriaco for both the view and best chance of parking.   Saw the Arch of Trajan below us all by itself in the shipyard.  The Wikipedia link has a good photo of the lonely arch.   We would see so much today but I regret not seeing the arch up close.

The whole hill top area around the church was holy ground for the original Greek settlers then later Roman temples replacing the Greek temples and churches replacing the Roman.  

We walked to the lighthouse or faro and enjoyed the view.  Below the faro is an old Jewish cemetery though unfortunately many of the tomb stones are neglected and have fallen down.   I'm guessing that Ancona used to have a significant Jewish community.
Old fountain, center of Ancona
   Next we walked into the city, saw the market area and main square.   

 After seeing Ancona we drove south to Porto Novo for an excellent seafood lunch at Marcello.    At the link there is one good review from a foreigner and one review in Italian saying it was terrible and the manager would sit people in the ocean if he could earn more money from his high priced menu.    For us Marcello was a little pricey but very good,  white wine was nice, food tasty.   The beach is rocky but the boys still braved it with bare feet and played around while we had desert.  The grappa here was very strong, even Gio made a comment about it.

Next we went to where Gio buys his red wine, the Antica Cantina S. Amico.  Gio bought us a bottle of the 2006 LaCrima Di Morro D'Alba.
Lunch Porto Novo
  We can't wait to try it and saving it for a special occasion.

After the winery Gio canceled a short sight seeing tour of Jesi as he wanted to take us to the Grotte Di Frasassi and was afraid we would miss the last tour.   After a drive through the beautiful Marche countryside we arrived just in time to catch the last tour of the caverns.   Very impressive.   One thing I noticed while driving around Le Marche was that most of the roads follow ridge and hill lines.  In most parts of the world the farms and roads are in the valleys and the hills are left for grazing.   In Le Marche all the farm houses and villages were on top of the hills, better for defense.

We drove back towards Ancona and visited Gio's home for a while then it was time to dinner at the excellent Ristorante Nonno Enrico (best link I can find.
Old tractor at the winery
Address: Via Pozzolungo, 8 - Belvedere Ostrense).   This is a country house that has been turned into a restaurant serving traditional country dishes.  We sat on the second floor and proceeded to have a great meal.   No menu here, the waiter gives a choice of different pastas and main courses and even with Gio translating it was a little difficult.   One item that wasn't difficult to choose was the house's tagliatelle dish as Gio said this was a traditional pasta that has lost popularity in recent years but one of his favorites. He said he specifically chose to take us to Nonno to try this dish.   A very good choice!  In fact both the boys and I would usually order tagliatelle if available for the remainder of our trip.  Unfortunately it never was as good as it was here.      

After dinner it was time to go home.   We got back to the room at midnight and the boys had no problem getting to sleep.   We would never have come to Ancona if it wasn't for Gio and thanks to him our time in Ancona was one of the highlights of the trip.




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Gio and Scott view from the faro
Gio and Scott view from the faro
Old fountain, center of Ancona
Old fountain, center of Ancona
Lunch Porto Novo
Lunch Porto Novo
Old tractor at the winery
Old tractor at the winery
Santa Amico winery
Santa Amico winery
Ristorante Nonno Enrico
Ristorante Nonno Enrico
Ancona
photo by: roman1607