A day spent in the lovely plush neighbourhood of Coyoacan

Mexico City Travel Blog

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Bakery @ Coyoacán

Another day, another neighbourhood! My plan this time wasn't so much to cover 2-3 big attractions in far flung places of the city but to focus on generally meandering through a neighbourhood a day, and taking the sites in. Coyoacan, or the "place of coyotes" was one of the bases of operations of Cortes, after the fall of Tenochtitlan. It was also the home of Trotsky and Frida Kahlo, and the narrow cobbled streets along with the colonial plazas, the bakeries, pastries and rsnts still retain the area's provincial charm.

Like Saturday, I asked the hotel for a driver and they sent me a very charming 72yo who would take me around town. As usual, the man doesn't know a word of English so God bless my Spanish skills. We started off around 11am and reached the place by afternoon. First thoughts were the same as San Angel - very nice.

The Frida Kahlo Museum which is closed on Mondays
Very shady, seeing the houses with gates and high rise fences reminded me a lot of the quieter areas in Bengaluru India, then you have the odd church which takes you to Europe... it really was such an interesting mix. We parked right outside the Frida Kahlo museum which was closed (closed on Mondays). At first I was thinking why the hell has he parked so far away but in retrospect, I think it was a great idea as we got to walk the area and see more. I have to say this: Mexico City, at least these areas are definitely very safe. I think the whole "careful of carnapping" and all have been blown out of proportion.

First stop of the day was the market, the Mercado de Coyoacan. Now this was very much like an Indian one.

Inside Mercado de Coyoacán
I enjoyed walking through the food stalls, the veg vendors and the non-veg/meat ones were pretty colourful too. From here, we (we = guide and me) continued walking through the lovely neighbourhood till we hit the Casa Municipal. This was built in the 18th Century and today houses the Government HQ. Nearby is the Jardin Hidalgo where you find a statue of Miguel Hidalgo and the Portada Atrial which is the centre of popular weekend activities that feature mimes, musicians and hanricrafts sales.

From here, walked to the rather lovely Convento de San Juan Bautista which is one of the oldest Catholic churches in Mexico City, which was built in the 16th century.  It has some rather baroque style ornaments which I thought was pretty interesting.

Fruit and veg, Mercado de Coyoacán
but the church on the whole was nice, nothing unusual but I loved the paintings on the wall including the ones of of people from the East. There was a prayer going on in one of the rooms and was nice to hear. One of the things I wanted to do was eat tres leches in Mexico, so I actually found one (but not so good) in the bakery nearby. That served as my lunch (yep, wasn't too hungry) and then went for a long walk on the beautifully shady Francisco Casa till the end, up to Capilla de San Antonio Panzacola.

From here, walked back... (long walk, kudos to my 72yo guide) and reached the other end which was Plaza de la Conchita with the church. The church was closed, but the area again looked good. I wanted to see the much acclaimed Parque Frida Kahlo but sadly, that was closed for lunch (what??!).

Just had to take this!
Did some more random wandering and headed back to the taxi, to go back to the hotel.

Reached the hotel around 4pm, went to the terrace. It was raining, so sat on the terrace and watched the planes go by sipping tea. I'm really loving this "schedule" now, I wish it weren't coming to an end. After sunset, I went for a walk around the area and... and.... and... finally FOUND IT! Tres Leches! Authentic Mexicano Tres Leches. And wow, it was TASTY!! Even better than the stuff we get in the US. Brilliant! I savoured every bit! Went around the area, clicked some picctures in the dark and chose a quite (almost closed down) rsnt for dinner. It was Italian again, but this time garlic pasta. I love spicy Mexican Italian food!

Came back to the room around 11pm, packed and went to bed.

 

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Bakery @ Coyoacán
Bakery @ Coyoacán
The Frida Kahlo Museum which is cl…
The Frida Kahlo Museum which is c…
Inside Mercado de Coyoacán
Inside Mercado de Coyoacán
Fruit and veg, Mercado de Coyoacán
Fruit and veg, Mercado de Coyoacán
Just had to take this!
Just had to take this!
spices, spices, spices
spices, spices, spices
Typical spread on a table, Mercado…
Typical spread on a table, Mercad…
Random picture whilst walking in C…
Random picture whilst walking in …
At Portada Atrial
At Portada Atrial
Inside the Parroquia y ex convento…
Inside the Parroquia y ex convent…
Inside the Parroquia y ex convento…
Inside the Parroquia y ex convent…
at the Jardin Hidalgo
at the Jardin Hidalgo
at the Jardin Hidalgo
at the Jardin Hidalgo
Outside view of convento de San Ju…
Outside view of convento de San J…
Inside a pastry shop
Inside a pastry shop
Inside a pastry shop
Inside a pastry shop
Inside a pastry shop
Inside a pastry shop
Random road shot on Francisco Sosa
Random road shot on Francisco Sosa
Casa Alvarado on Francisco Sosa
Casa Alvarado on Francisco Sosa
Casa Alvarado on Francisco Sosa
Casa Alvarado on Francisco Sosa
with my guide for the day, Casa …
with my "guide" for the day, Casa…
Front facade of Capilla de San Ant…
Front facade of Capilla de San An…
Another lovely shot of convento de…
Another lovely shot of convento d…
In front of Capilla de la Conchita
In front of Capilla de la Conchita
Parque Frida Kahlo (which was clos…
Parque Frida Kahlo (which was clo…
Random shot, Avenida de Los Enamor…
Random shot, Avenida de Los Enamo…
Lufthansa clocking in from Frankfu…
Lufthansa clocking in from Frankf…
Why why why does a BA jumbo follow…
Why why why does a BA jumbo follo…
Tres leches, I live for this!
Tres leches, I live for this!
Casa de los azulejos
Casa de los azulejos
Museo de Bellas Artes at night
Museo de Bellas Artes at night
Dinner - garlic, red chilli, spage…
Dinner - garlic, red chilli, spag…