The road back to Sevare

Sevare Travel Blog

 › entry 14 of 26 › view all entries
May 21, 2010
Hotel: Mac's Refuge, Sevare, Mali

Our tout had said the 4WD was coming this morning at 5AM.. so we were surprised when there was the driver knocking on our door at 4:20.. we'd only just woken up. The driver seemed impatient as we quickly packed up our things and headed downstairs.. it was only halfway back to Sevare I realized I'd left my $30 travel towel hanging in the bathroom, doh!

We arrived at the ferry around 5:30.. it starts running at 6AM so we had a bit of a wait. Already there were several Land Cruisers full of locals waiting to cross over.. on the other side of the river we saw the bus that must have spent the night. An interesting mix of people, Arabs and blacks, Tuareg and Fulani, Timbuktu is at the crossroads of the desert and Niger river.
It was already light out and we could see how low the river was this time of year.

The ride back to Douentza was mostly uneventful, until we got a flat tire. Luckily we did have a working spare, so that was quickly remedied, until we got to the next town where we had to wait 30 minutes while the repair shop patched our original tire. All small towns here seem to have two things in common; a tire repair shop and a Landcruiser mechanic. We set off yet again, until we get to Douentza and the driver decides not to go any further (another mechanical problem, apparently). We sat around for about 2hrs, drinking delicious mango juice, waiting on a bus to pass by. Meanwhile, brand new SUVs of various charitable aid agencies whiz by, but none of them will offer us a lift to Sevare.
Eventually a bus arrives from Gao and the driver did pay the bus fare.

We arrive at the bus station in Sevare, then catch a taxi to the ATM and Mac's Refuge.. a legendary traveler hotel known for it's buffet dinners and breakfasts. Every night has a different theme, Chinese, Mexican, Italian, etc. We're a little surprised to show up and find, yet again, we're the only guests. May is definitely not tourist season in Mali! There's also been a Tuareg rebellion in the north that may be keeping away tourists.. but all the areas that we visited are supposed to be safe.

It's about 3PM by this point and we just spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing, sitting on the roof and drinking beer, watching the rain clouds start to move in.
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Macs Refuge breakfast, Sevare, Ma…
Mac's Refuge breakfast, Sevare, M…
Mali bus
Mali bus
Sevare Hotels & Accommodations review
Legendary traveller hotel in Sevare
Mac's Refuge is a legendary traveler hotel in Sevare known for it's buffet dinners and breakfasts. Every night has a different theme, Chinese, Mexican… read entire review
photo by: hauteboy