my achy-breaky heart
San Pedro La Laguna Travel Blog› entry 6 of 14 › view all entries
so i've made the decision to vacate mi casa bonita. this might come as a shock considering i've rambled on for months about this sweet spot i scored right on the lake. and it IS sweet...more than sweet. i couldnt have dreamed up a more perfect view, a more cozy porch, more welcoming and helpful caretakers. it has a highly functional kitchen and bathroom, ample lighting and 2 big comfy beds. the 15 minute walk from my house into town comes with no less than twenty pleasant greetings, and upon my return in the evenings, i am often met by my adorable 4 year old neighbor, chico. chico IS the man! i might seem nuts for giving all of these things up. i feel a little nuts right now. but heres the thing...
while i've opted for peace and quiet, i dont want to stay in EVERY night. i've met some really amazing people, and i'd like to spend some time socializing with them - with the breed of people i meet while travelling, in general. the problem lies in the fact that tuk-tuks and taxis stop running at just the time that those people start rolling into the local haunts, at just the time that the live music scene (which i planted myself in last night on the stage of a chill little place called en vivo) starts to pick up. and so unless i coax someone into trekking 30 minutes out of their way to see me home safely, i am left to walk alone down a very long, dark, desolate road. for the mostpart, i feel VERY safe here. the only 'run in' i've had was at 7oclock in the evening with an 18ish year old local guy. when i denied him a chat because i was exhausted and wanted to get home, he proceeded to shout at me for being a rich, stuck up, fucking american asshole. FUUUUCCCCKKKK YOUUUUU AMERICAN ASSSSHOOOOLLLLEEEE!!!! resonated until i had rounded a bend. i wanted nothing more than to turn around, take the kid by the shoulders, look him in the eye and say "yo no tengo mucho dinero. yo trabajo mucho mucho mucho horas para puedo comprar esta vacacione. yo soy una escritora. ahora, yo no tengo una casa. yo no tengo employar." at which point he would have probably laughed in my face at my as of yet pathetic spanish. but instead, i simply picked up the pace, grateful for the other people present on the road. but what if they hadn't been there and homeboy was an opportunist? what then? yeah, i guess i could have bought the badass swiss army knife i eyed at the solola market yesterday. but why should i put myself in a position to NEED to carry a knife?
there's another factor, and no - its not the bugs (though i did have to use my broom to escort yet a 4th scorpion out my door the other day). while i am here primarily to write, i am indulging in all that san pedro has to offer. i'm horseback riding, volunteer teaching at a local school, studying spanish, kayaking, taking a painting class and theres a 9am yoga class that i should really get my ass to (especially with all the avocados i've been maoing down). having to figure out/decide what i need to bring with me for the WHOLE day, every day...whether a purse is sufficient or i need a backpack, calculating a budget for the day...going into town knowing that i need to gather everthing and get everything down because once i'm home i'm in for good....its robbing me of the ability to be spontaneous, especially with writing. yes, of course, i always carry a notebook, but what if i feel like working on my screenplay (a laptop necessary activity) for an hour, or what if i want to play with my watercolors? not being able to grab a quick shower after a kayak/swim in el lago, having to stay in a wet bathing suit for the rest of the day...not a big fan. it would be nice to go do something in the morning, go back to my spot to write for an hour, go to spanish class, go home and write for a few hours, have dinner and then head out for a beer and some conversation.
so i've spoken to my lovely landlady who, as a woman, completely understood my reasoning and agreed to let me pay for half the month. and i found a room in the center of town for 30 quetzales/night (less than $4, and in total about $50 less than i'd pay if i stayed in my house). its a big, bright room with a private bathroom and access to a modest, shared outdoor kitchen. the selling point is that on my porch (which is much less private, not nearly as wonderful as the one i am sitting on now) has a GIANT cushy hammock which i fully intend to make good use of!
and so tuesday, i will give up my little slice of heaven, and i am going to make the absolute most of the next day and a half in mi casa. but i'm simply going to be having a DIFFERENT experience for the second half of my stay in san pedro. based on my interaction with the travel gods in the past, i am quite certain that this experience will offer gifts of its own.