Rugby and Saris

Nampula Travel Blog

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The next day we walked around town, exploring the main drags, finding the train station, the Internet café, some good restaurants, and a much cheaper (and simpler) hotel room. We found out that the train we wanted to take to Cuamba by the Malawi border would leave four days hence. We did research online on how to get to Ilha de Mozambique, a colonial town on the coast, 150 km from Nampula. We wanted to rent a car to drive there, but found car rental to be prohibitively expensive since for some reason only luxury cars were available.
In the evening we found out that the TV in our room was only receiving one local station, which ordinarily would not have bothered us, except France were to play in the World Cup rugby final, and Arnaud wanted to see the game. We walked all over town looking for a public place with satellite television, and eventually found a hotel lobby whose receptionist did not object to watching the rugby final. France lost, however, and we walked back to our own hotel somewhat dejectedly. On the main road right in front of our place, we discovered Nampula’s hopping nightlife. A few street vendors had set up shop on the green strip in the middle of the wide road and were offering grilled beef, chicken and liver as well as a variety of Indian side dishes. The clientele had all arrived in their luxury four-by-fours, and were decked out to the max. Lounging on their daddy’s car hoods were a dozen young girls, dressed in Saris all color of the rainbow, with nose rings and ear rings and hair clasps and finger rings and bangles all sparkling gems and gold. They were gossiping with their friends, giggling at the careful advances of a few dapper youths, never actually engaging in any flirtation under their mothers’ and grandmothers’ watchful eyes. We vowed to have dinner there the next evening.

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photo by: pearcetoyou