Going to Beira

Vilankulo Travel Blog

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The minibus we boarded the next morning was managed by a greedy immoral and consequently was so overbooked that everybody was in pain trying to fit into the narrow benches, before we even started moving. Our baggage found space on the roof, for which privilege we were charged several times the usual fare. The nine-hour drive over pot-hole riddled roads with twice as many passengers as would have fit into the small vehicle comfortably was one of the most challenging parts of our trip. When we arrived in Beira, which is a run-down, dirty place with shady areas a-plentiful, we were destroyed. We checked into the first hotel we saw, right next to the bus station, and had a couple of beers before venturing out again.
When we did, we found out that the bus we were meant to take the next morning, left from a different neighborhood altogether. Trying to find the office we walked around a little heedlessly, and Arnaud was hit by a car! He was crossing a busy street after me, not seeing the big SUV approaching fast, whose driver presumably did not see him either. I shouted, “Watch out! Watch out!” in increasing urgency to no avail. Finally, as a collision was impending, I screamed at the top of my lungs – at last Arnaud heard, looked and jumped just in time to land on the vehicle’s hood rather than under the wheels. He slammed a handful of coins against the car for good measure, and we got away with racing hearts but bodies intact.
We did eventually find the bus company’s office, having
been led there by a young student who was worried about our safety in the unlit streets, whose pavement had long since crumbled and was now flooded and populated by frogs. At the office, however, we found out that next day’s only bus was already full. It seemed we would have to stay an extra day in unappealing Beira.
We did manage to find a very good restaurant after walking for hours through deserted streets lined with decrepit buildings and nair a soul in sight. At the table next to us there was a trio of unwholesome looking characters discussing million-Dollar deals.

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photo by: pearcetoyou