This is the begining or the end of the world, depends how you look at it, I guess

Fisterra Travel Blog

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At the pilgrim's memorial in Finisterre

In the morning I call up Fran to ask whether my room is vacant today, for I would like to keep it after all. It is, and I take off to the bus station, which is only 10 minutes away. My bus leaves at 10 a.m., and on it I meet Jose whom I had jumped at Pedrouzo albergue asking him to make my Santiago-booking. My guide says, that it takes about 2 hours to get to Fisterra, but it turns out to be more than 3 hours. Not nice. The road winds along the coast and we pass little villages and small towns. It's beautiful to see the landscape and the ocean, and I notice how the scenery changes. Instead of lush pastures and forest, here there are rocky grounds and hills covered with broom.

It's the end of the world as we know it ...
It looks very much like my home Dalmatia. There are also wide sandy beaches, and I imagine these places would make a great summer holiday. 

Finally we arrive in Fisterra. I want to go to the cape right away, and say goodbye to Jose and his friend Javier who will be staying overnight, and therefore leave the cape for tomorrow. Through the town there are Camino waymarks, and they lead to the only road towards the cape. It's about 3 km slightly uphill along the coast. The view is spectacular! I meet Giovanni from Italy, and we walk a while together, then split up again, only to meet again at the cape. It's actually good to have a companion here, so we can take photos and chat. At Cap Finisterre there's a roadstone marking the 0 km - the name Finisterre means "the end of the world" and goes way back to ancient Celtic times.

Hey mama, look at me, I'm at the end of the world!
Today we know what's beyond that vast ocean, and it might as well be the beginning of the world, wouldn't it? But it IS impressive! You can take a look here: http://www.crtvg.es/cgi-bin/camweb/camaras.asp?id=4&idioma=aleman. 

Beneath the lighthouse, there's a memorial to the pilgrims, presented in bronze shoes. Tradition is, that pilgrims burn their worn out clothes here, and Giovanni really takes out a sock and burns it. Somehow it has something solemnly about it :) . We also find various pieces of clothes tied to a mast. This point is one of Earth's most beautiful spots I've ever been to, and I'm so happy to be here! A light breeze comes from across the ocean, it's cloudy but warm, and all you can hear are the wind, the sea and the fishermen shouting at each other from ship to ship. Giovanni and I each choose a spot on the rocks and just enjoy it.

Finisterre. Giovanni burning his sock
I think I spent about 3 hours here, which doesn't really matter, for time was of no importance. Not even though I had a bus to catch. I was high on ocean air :)

I wave Giovanni a good bye, and head back to Fisterra.  The road is slightly downhill and I fall into a fast pace. Rain drops start falling on my head, and it's actually refreshing. It doesn't last long, and quickly I arrive in Fisterra. I take a stroll through town, and then head to the bus station. I have an hour 'till departure, but am hungry. In a bar I bump into Jose and Javier who are also here to have some lunch. We eat together and chat. They are from Las Palmas, and I like Javier telling about "his island" :) .  They walked the whole Camino, and again my observation has been confirmed, that is, that the long-walkers are silent and reclused.

"It should not be denied that being footloose has always exhilarated us. It is associated in our minds with escape from history and oppression and law and irksome obligations. Absolute freedom. And the road has always led west." Christopher McCandless
The guys laugh at me telling them about this, but they agree. "You get in such a different state", Jose explains. For him it's the second time on the Camino, and on my asking why do it more than ones, he answers that his friend Javier wanted to do it, and so he just came along. Now, that's what I call friendship! A shared burden is half a burden. 

We say farewell, and I get on the bus. Another 3 hours of driving. I get a headache, and to my astonishment this perfect day in Finisterre starts to pale and make room for the annoying bus ride. I wonder what will happen once I get home. Will these amazing 10 days just vanish into thin air? I hope not. It's a unique experience, and I hope I'll never forget how I felt. 

I arrive in Santiago around 8 p.m.. It's still daylight, the night doesn't seem to fall before 10 p.

The Shoe-memorial at Cap Finisterre
m.. I do some food shopping on my way to the pension for breakfast. My legs hurt, but after taking my groceries to my room, I go to town again for a snack. The old town is full of bars and restaurants, and they all have tables outside on the pavement. Santiago has a university with about 30.000 students, and that shows. It's crowded with young people and pilgrims, the town surely knows how to live it up. I love it, and absorb every atom of this relaxed atmosphere. 

Tomorrow is Santiago-day.


 

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At the pilgrims memorial in Finis…
At the pilgrim's memorial in Fini…
Its the end of the world as we kn…
It's the end of the world as we k…
Hey mama, look at me, Im at the e…
Hey mama, look at me, I'm at the …
Finisterre. Giovanni burning his s…
Finisterre. Giovanni burning his …
It should not be denied that bein…
"It should not be denied that bei…
The Shoe-memorial at Cap Finisterre
The Shoe-memorial at Cap Finisterre
Finisterre. My friends live just a…
Finisterre. My friends live just …
Way to Cap Finisterre
Way to Cap Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre
View to Cap Finisterre
View to Cap Finisterre
Broom growing all over the rocky g…
Broom growing all over the rocky …
Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre flowers
Finisterre flowers
View to Finisterres lighthouse
View to Finisterre's lighthouse
Finisterre, pilgrim memorial
Finisterre, pilgrim memorial
Fennel growing all over Finisterre
Fennel growing all over Finisterre
Farn growing all over Finisterre
Farn growing all over Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre flowers
Finisterre flowers
Finisterre
Finisterre
Rocks and broom at Finisterre
Rocks and broom at Finisterre
Souvenir benches at Finisterre
Souvenir benches at Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre flowers
Finisterre flowers
The Costa da Morte - the Coast of …
The Costa da Morte - the Coast of…
Cap Finisterre
Cap Finisterre
Finisterre. Looking towards the we…
Finisterre. Looking towards the w…
Finisterre, facing the west
Finisterre, facing the west
Cap Finisterre with the lighthouse
Cap Finisterre with the lighthouse
Memorials at Finisterre
Memorials at Finisterre
Memorials at Finisterre
Memorials at Finisterre
Memorials at Finisterre
Memorials at Finisterre
At Finisterre lighthouse
At Finisterre lighthouse
Finisterre lighthouse
Finisterre lighthouse
Cap Finisterre
Cap Finisterre
Finisterre
Finisterre
Cap Finisterre
Cap Finisterre
Finisterre. Pilgrims leaving their…
Finisterre. Pilgrims leaving thei…
My baggage made it to the end of t…
My baggage made it to the end of …
Cap Finisterre
Cap Finisterre
The remains of Giovannis sock
The remains of Giovanni's sock
Fisterra
Fisterra
Fisterra
Fisterra
Fisterra
Fisterra
Fisterra beach and harbour
Fisterra beach and harbour
Fisterra
Fisterra
Fisterra beach
Fisterra beach
Fisterra
Fisterra
Fisterra, emigrant memorial
Fisterra, emigrant memorial
Fisterra, emigrant memorial
Fisterra, emigrant memorial
Fisterra
photo by: seeUaroundtheWorld