This is the begining or the end of the world, depends how you look at it, I guess
Fisterra Travel Blog› entry 12 of 16 › view all entries
In the morning I call up Fran to ask whether my room is vacant today, for I would like to keep it after all. It is, and I take off to the bus station, which is only 10 minutes away. My bus leaves at 10 a.m., and on it I meet Jose whom I had jumped at Pedrouzo albergue asking him to make my Santiago-booking. My guide says, that it takes about 2 hours to get to Fisterra, but it turns out to be more than 3 hours. Not nice. The road winds along the coast and we pass little villages and small towns. It's beautiful to see the landscape and the ocean, and I notice how the scenery changes. Instead of lush pastures and forest, here there are rocky grounds and hills covered with broom.
Finally we arrive in Fisterra. I want to go to the cape right away, and say goodbye to Jose and his friend Javier who will be staying overnight, and therefore leave the cape for tomorrow. Through the town there are Camino waymarks, and they lead to the only road towards the cape. It's about 3 km slightly uphill along the coast. The view is spectacular! I meet Giovanni from Italy, and we walk a while together, then split up again, only to meet again at the cape. It's actually good to have a companion here, so we can take photos and chat. At Cap Finisterre there's a roadstone marking the 0 km - the name Finisterre means "the end of the world" and goes way back to ancient Celtic times.
Beneath the lighthouse, there's a memorial to the pilgrims, presented in bronze shoes. Tradition is, that pilgrims burn their worn out clothes here, and Giovanni really takes out a sock and burns it. Somehow it has something solemnly about it :) . We also find various pieces of clothes tied to a mast. This point is one of Earth's most beautiful spots I've ever been to, and I'm so happy to be here! A light breeze comes from across the ocean, it's cloudy but warm, and all you can hear are the wind, the sea and the fishermen shouting at each other from ship to ship. Giovanni and I each choose a spot on the rocks and just enjoy it.
I wave Giovanni a good bye, and head back to Fisterra. The road is slightly downhill and I fall into a fast pace. Rain drops start falling on my head, and it's actually refreshing. It doesn't last long, and quickly I arrive in Fisterra. I take a stroll through town, and then head to the bus station. I have an hour 'till departure, but am hungry. In a bar I bump into Jose and Javier who are also here to have some lunch. We eat together and chat. They are from Las Palmas, and I like Javier telling about "his island" :) . They walked the whole Camino, and again my observation has been confirmed, that is, that the long-walkers are silent and reclused.
We say farewell, and I get on the bus. Another 3 hours of driving. I get a headache, and to my astonishment this perfect day in Finisterre starts to pale and make room for the annoying bus ride. I wonder what will happen once I get home. Will these amazing 10 days just vanish into thin air? I hope not. It's a unique experience, and I hope I'll never forget how I felt.
I arrive in Santiago around 8 p.m.. It's still daylight, the night doesn't seem to fall before 10 p.
Tomorrow is Santiago-day.