Errands in Dushanbe
Dushanbe Travel Blog› entry 18 of 19 › view all entries
I met my guide Saidali in the Hotel Dushanbe after a few hours of confusion - he waited outside while I waited in the lobby. We went to a few offices in town to try and get my permit for Lake Sarez in the Pamirs. After a few attempts it was clear that it was not going to happen. I will taking a different, easier route in the Bartang Valley which is entirely inhabited.
I moved my things to a homestay in Dushanbe at the suggestion of Saidali. He is a 30-something man from Murgab of Kyrgyz ethnicity. He came the 20 hours by car to meet me in Dushanbe. This afternoon we bough some primus for my stove and lots of food for the trip: dried fruits, macaroni, rice, chocolate bars, trail mix, nuts, etc. We will buy bread, meat, and cheese tomorrow in Khorog. It is much nicer and cheaper in the homestay than in the frighteningly Stalinist Hotel Vaksh. Tomorrow morning we will have an 8-hour bus journey to Khorog, the capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast. We will stay the night and then have a much shorter drive east and up to Alichur, where my week-long trek begins.