Day 183 (1): E.B.C. trek day 9, Lobuche to Everest Base Camp (5347m)

Everest Base Camp Travel Blog

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walking on the Khumbu moraine

Thanks to the people I met here and/or travelled with: John (Scotland)

After two relatively easy days it was time for some serious walking. Sanjeev and I set out early, together with John and his guide. The entire walk to Gorak Shep was across glacial moraine, along the edge of the Khumbu glacier Like most glaciers around the world, the Khumbu is shrinking due to global warming. At first I thought the Khumbu glacier had retreated so far that the rubble below us was all moraine, until I noticed patches of ice and water in between the rocks. As it turns out the entire glacier is covered in rock and sand from the many landslides that happen in the valley.

We arrived in Gorak Shep, where we will be spending the night tonight.

John and me at base camp
After a lunch break we continued our walk to the Everest Base Camp. The walk across the moraine was very tough, going up and down over large rocks all the time. By this stage we were at an altitude of over 5 kilometres, where the oxygen in the air is only half of what it is at sea level.
The oxygen deprivation, the freezing cold, the tough track - it was a draining experience.

The views on the way were magnificent though. For most of the time we walked right beneath the magnificent 7861m Nuptse peak, with the pyramid shaped top of Everest just peeking above its ridge.
Strangely enough you can't see Everest from the base camp - by that time it disappears entirely behind Nuptse.

The Everest Base Camp is a bit of a mess. Although people are encouraged not to leave any rubbish, quite a lot of items are left here as 'offerings'.
Stringing some prayer flags at Base Camp
These range from Buddhist prayer flags to personal items of people who have perished on Everest to a bag of chocolates from an expensive London confectionery (eh???).
I had bought some prayer flags in Namche, which I strung around the several prayer stones which have been erected at the camp. It might help warrant a save return for the Japanese and Korean expeditions which were about to attempt a climb of Everest.

The Everest Base Camp that we visited is not the actual base camp. This is the trekkers base camp, the end of the trek. The actual expedition base camp lies another hour further down the Khumbu glacier. This is probably done to give save the expeditions from hordes of visiting trekkers as well as preventing trekkers from walking further across the treacherous glacier, where it is all too easy to fall through the ice into a crevice or glacial lake.

John was keen on walking on, but I decided to save my energy for the return to Gorak Shep and the two climbs we had planned for this afternoon and tomorrow morning. So Sanjeev and I returned to Gorak Shep, while John and his guide pressed on to the expedition base camp.

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walking on the Khumbu moraine
walking on the Khumbu moraine
John and me at base camp
John and me at base camp
Stringing some prayer flags at Bas…
Stringing some prayer flags at Ba…
The walk to EBC
The walk to EBC
The Everest massif in the distance
The Everest massif in the distance
walking up to Gorak Shep
walking up to Gorak Shep
The walk to EBC
The walk to EBC
Khumbu glacier
Khumbu glacier
having a break
having a break
Nuptse, with in the distance Chang…
Nuptse, with in the distance Chan…
The Khumbu glacier
The Khumbu glacier
Looking out over the Khumbu Glacier
Looking out over the Khumbu Glacier
Panorama of the Khumbu Glacier and…
Panorama of the Khumbu Glacier an…
Me :-)
Me :-)
The Khumbu glacier
The Khumbu glacier
Everest peaking above the Nuptse c…
Everest peaking above the Nuptse …
Nuptse
Nuptse
Everest
Everest
Approaching base camp
Approaching base camp
Acting like a climber
Acting like a climber
Everest
Everest
The Khumbu glacier and ice field
The Khumbu glacier and ice field
On the Khumbu glacier
On the Khumbu glacier
They used to have a sign here, but…
They used to have a sign here, bu…
Khumbu ice field
Khumbu ice field
Stringing some prayer flags at bas…
Stringing some prayer flags at ba…
All kinds of offerings at base camp
All kinds of offerings at base camp
Everest Base Camp
photo by: halilee