Day 137: India's national pastime: Cow swerving

Khajuraho Travel Blog

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On the train to Jhansi

Thanks to the people I met here and/or travelled with: Ed (Netherlands)

Khajuraho is a small town, 500 km south of Delhi, which is renowned for its Hindu temples. We arrived at the hotel in Khajuraho exactly 12 hours after we left the hotel in Delhi. I'd not expected the journey to take this long, to be honest. The first part of the journey, by train, had been quick and comfortable enough. The train ran on time (a new experience for both of us) and we spent most of the six hour journey sleeping. Hey, it is not as if there is much to see outside, right, so we might as well make ourselves useful!
But the second part of the journey, a 165 km cab ride to the town of Khajuraho, took another 4 hours (including a stop in an overpriced tea house).

Spending my time
This was mainly due to the poor state of the roads, Madhya Pradesh is notorious for its poor roads, but also due to the busy traffic and the huge amount of cows on the road. Hindu people believe cows are holy and as a result these animals are free to wander wherever they please. And for some reason they please to be in the middle of the road, so every Indian driver has become an expert in swerving around bovine roadblocks.
By the time we got to Khajuraho we were both quite knackered.

The hotel was a bit of a shock for me. I'd told Mahinder to book us in 'economy' and 'budget' hotels (out of the four categories that they offer). I certainly hadn't expected to be put in a four star resort hotel! While the room wasn't all that different from the previous hotels I'd stayed in India (though a bit bigger) it was the huge posh lobby and the hotel's facilities (swimming pool, pool table, table tennis, massage, bar, restaurant, night club) that made me wonder just what this whole backpacking thing meant again.
On the road to Khajuraho


Never mind, time for food. We had a nice dinner at Raja's café, a very touristy restaurant without the touristy prices. They serve some really nice Indian classics (as well as Western fare). In order to get there we had to fend off some overzealous tuk-tuk drivers. Unlike in Delhi, here the people who are eager to earn some money off tourists will not leave you alone. The touts in Khajuraho have got a rather bad reputation. This is exactly how I had imagined India would be, which certainly isn't a good thing.
After a failed attempt to buy some beers to enjoy back in our hotel room (the liquor store doubled his prices as soon as he realised he was dealing with tourists) we walked back to the hotel.
On the way back we had to endure the company of some “friendly” local who just “happened to pass by” and wanted to “practice his English”. When he started offering us to show around time tomorrow and asking in which hotel we were staying we decided it was time to say goodbye to our new friend.

These temples had better be worth it tomorrow, because so far I am not particularly impressed with this place.

Biedjee says:
There wasn't
Posted on: Nov 13, 2010
edsander says:
> Hey, it is not as if there is much to see outside, right,

I wouldn't know. I did not have a window. ;-)
Posted on: Nov 13, 2010
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On the train to Jhansi
On the train to Jhansi
Spending my time
Spending my time
On the road to Khajuraho
On the road to Khajuraho
Cold beer sold here - well, tech…
"Cold beer sold here" - well, tec…
Khajuraho Hotels & Accommodations review
A nice resort-style hotel
This is not the kind of accommodation I usually stay at. We ended up at this 4-star resort as part of our trip through Rajasthan. For what it is it is… read entire review
Khajuraho
photo by: Marusya