0588 The Tombs of the Generals (Mex 003—revisit)

Huatabampo Travel Blog

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Monday morning, I get up early, eager not to waste any time.  Navojoa’s main market is starting to wake up, and there are plenty of options for breakfast. I wander around trying to decide… so many things I want to eat while I’m here and so little time… Finally I settle for a strawberry shake at one stand, and the eggs with machaca (shredded meat--  usually horsemeat) with beans and tortillas somewhere else.  Delicious.


Now it’s time to start my explorations of the day.  My plan is to visit and parkbench different towns and suburbs of Navojoa each day.  I’m a little undecided yet as to which towns are worth adding to my “collection”… There are plenty of dusty little farm villages which are bring back memories--  however, they have no place where I can sit and play music and take a proper video clip.

Tomb of Obregon


I decide to start with something easy:  Huatabampo.  Huatabampo is a small city off towards the coast--  and a must visit.  I don’t remember ever actually exploring it, just passing through it numerous times on the way to the beach. 

I head west a few blocks to the little regional bus station and am soon on my way, passing lush, green irrigated wheatfields.  This region is known as “the breadbasket of Mexico” thanks to a couple of dams up in foothills and a vast maze of canals can be thanked for that. 


Soon I reach Huatabampo.

  My first priority is to backtrack to the old cemetery at the edge of town, which includes the tomb of Alvaro Obregon, a former president and hero of the 1920s Revolucion.  I go inside, and have a hard time finding it--  as there are actually several enormous monuments/tombs.  Finally I asks one of the workers there, who kindly points it out--  as well as filling me in on history a bit.  He says that this cemetery is known as “Cementerio de los Generales” because of all the Revolutionary generals that are buried here.


I have to ask myself how it was possible that I lived for 8 just a few kilometres from this major historic place and never thought of coming to visit it… It’s almost embarrassing…

Outside the cemetery I find another monument to Alvaro Obregon, which seems appropriate for my video clip.  Then I head back to to downtown Huatabambo.


Huatabambo has a similar layout to Navojoa, just smaller and more laid back.  Built in a gridlike fashion, it’s got a central commercial district that combines modern shops and a more traditional market.  Then, of course, there’s the plaza and the main church--  an attractive but simple Southwest style structure.  The plaza is actually very nice, with plenty of trees and shade and I little raised, covered stage in the center--  actually nicer than Navojoa’s.  I continue on, through residential neighborhoods which are quite typical for this region, with very wide paved or dirt streets and large fenced in shady plots so folks can spend time outdoors on sweltering summer days… this gives a sense of spaciousness to the town. 


It’s not long before I reach an irrigation canal which marks the edge of town… So I head across to the opposite edge of town… then back to downtown again where I stop for some tacos and grab a carton of frozen strawberries with cream… I’m definitely not going to lose weight on this trip…


Overall I’ve been pleasantly surprised by Huatabampo… it definitely does have some character to it--  I still find it hard to believe that I never thought of exploring this place before…


I head on back to Navojoa, where I spend the rest of the day visiting old neighbors in El Datil and seeing some friends in town.

  Tomorrow will be another adventure.

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Tomb of Obregon
Tomb of Obregon
Life size manger scene
Life size manger scene
photo by: nathanphil