Searching for Saki and walking along Slovensko Beach

Budva Travel Blog

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Budva Riviera

Up and out by 7:40, I headed to Slavija Square but, got myself confused……as I always do concerning Slavija Square. I did make it to the JAT bus just in time to make the 8:00, as I wanted.  It was overcast and spitting rain.

The 40 minute ride to Nikola Tesla Airport was uneventful…good! I checked in and went through security, twice…..whatever.

The flight was on time and full. It was a small plane, but larger than I expected….about 80 people. It was only 40 minutes and I could see that we were crossing the coastline of Montenegro and out over the sea.

Tivat Airport was a tiny little thing. Passport control took forever….

Slovensko Beach
.80 people…..2  border guards. Once allowed into Montenegro, the luggage was waiting and I was on my way.

Check in with my rental car, Avis, was quick and easy. He even went to get the car and brought it to the sidewalk in front of the airport. I was given an Opel Corsa…cute little car.  When going over the scratches and dings, I discovered that the right side of the car had been scratched and gouged to hell and it looked like it had scraped a mountain side. The guy said that a couple of Russians had done that.

I asked for general directions and started down the highway. There is only one main road that follows the coastal towns and I was on it. So, the journey to Budva was an easy one.

It took about 25 minutes, still spitting rain.

I rounded the corner of a mountain and Budva was spread out before me. It looked larger than I had expected but, mountain side towns are deceiving.

I entered town and started my search for my homestay….in vain. There were no street signs so, I really don’t know why I tried but, I did. The upper town’s residential roads are very, very small. On one, I even tapped mirrors with someone as we crept by one another.

I finally gave up and went to what I thought was the bus station and called. The guy said he would be there in a few minutes. After a few minutes, I thought that maybe this wasn’t the bus station. I called him (Saki) back and shared this with him. I decided that it wasn’t and should go somewhere that I was sure of what it was.

I found a grocery store and called again. Saki still  didn’t find me as there are 3 of this chain and he didn’t see my car!!! So, I left again and went to a lighting store…..figuring there wouldn’t be a chain of them in this small town. I called Saki again and told him where I was. Within a few minutes he pulled up and signaled me. I followed him to his house…….I had driven by it on the first round through the upper town……but no signage and no street signs. There is no way I could have found it.

He was very apologetic. I think this has to be a regular problem for him. He showed me the room. It was large and had a kitchenette and a modern bathroom. The room had an odor to it but the door had been open and all of the windows so, it wasn’t strong…..yet.

After bringing in my things, I had a quick snack and walked down to the beach.

Doorway of what was
It’s a rocky beach, not cliff but smooth worn rocks or many differing sizes. It was no longer raining but it was overcast and hazy.

The mountains wore a halo of clouds at a mid level. Looking down the crescent beach, I could make out Stari Grad, the Old City with its Venetian walls. The projection out into the sea, the red tiled roofs, and the church bell tower all give a feeling of so….500 years ago. Then the block buildings, rusted metal everything, trash everywhere, concrete piles, and abandoned, crumbling buildings all reminded you that this had been a communist place and still get’s the wrong end of stick as the new investors do not place enough importance on maintaining this beautiful country. They shall go nameless…..unless you know who they are, I do!

I reached the Old Town, about a 2 1/5 kilometer walk from Saki’s.

Archway near the outer wall
The marina was nice……but, extremely minimal. There were several super yachts of British origin.

I walked in through the Venetian walls and through a non descript gate. I was immediately in a maze of narrow streets with old but plain buildings. This is no Dubrovnik. I guess I shouldn’t have expected such grandeur even though there are similarities. The streets of the old town have been converted to “Budva Mall”. Most of what is there is shops, and not even interesting ones. There were repetitive jewelry stores, shoe stores, some eateries, and a few souvenir stores. The souvenirs are run of the mill……not promoting the crafts, culture or art of the people. I was very disappointed. I continued on to the largest open space where XXX churches and the citadel sit.

The look here is better but none of the buildings were open, no churches, no citadel,nothing.

St. Mary's - details
I saw a spot where the wall was lower offering a view out to the sea. I immediately went for it.

As I was approaching, a clean well-dressed man stopped me. He asked where I was from. I told him and he immediately started guessing which city…..New York, Los Angeles, Florida, Washington D. C. I tried to stop him and explain the placement of Louisiana. He didn’t understand. From this, his next words were not as pleasant. “I have no job and no money. Can you give me 50 euro.” I was stunned and furious with this person that I thought was just being friendly. I told him no…..he continued and I told him no, again. He, again, continued and I held up my and with a very angry face said “STOP”! I then asked it he understood “STOP” as I continued my angry face which I hope looked threatening as he had gotten in my personal space several times during this. He just looked at me……I think deciding whether or not to press on.

Wall along the citadel
I just held my angry look. He moved on……to a Spanish girl, and then a bit later another English speaking person. It just infuriates me that as a traveler trying to learn about and connect with a foreign country, I am searched out as an ATM.

Anyway, I moved on to enjoy the view out to the sea and a beautiful old building with a circular window like I had seen in the Roman ruins in Split. I love these windows.

I continued through the maze and found the city’s museum. I will come back later for a visit. Exiting a different gate, I found the northern side and it’s beach. There was a nice view of the walls and city and even St. Nikolas island.

As it was spitting rain again, I began my long walk back. I stopped at a grocery and picked up supplies and some Montenegrin, Macedonian, and Albanian wine…….

Me
just for comparison…haha.

I settled in for a relaxing evening but, the odor was now much stronger. The door and windows being closed was trapping it in. I knew the smell……..cat urine…..aaarrrgghh! I couldn’t find Saki and tried to leave the windows open as long as I could. I was on the ground floor, though, and didn’t feel comfortable leaving it open while I slept. I had to shut them. I got a terrible headache and even started sneezing. I even realized that the comforter had the smell. I found another comforter in the closet. The problem there was that it had its own smell……stink. It was not clean. It smelled like someone that had not taken a bath in a month. So……I had to choose cat urine or human stink…..what a choice. As it was cold and there was no sheet, I just decided to sleep in my clothes.

I hoped for a better day, tomorrow.

Detail close up
Today had been a bit of a disappointment. I know not every journey can be life changing but, I had big hopes for this tiny country. I had been impressed with much that I had seen around the Bay of Kotor……even though there was much poverty and lack of care.

They should care more for their country; it’s really a beautiful one.
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Budva Riviera
Budva Riviera
Slovensko Beach
Slovensko Beach
Doorway of what was
Doorway of what was
Archway near the outer wall
Archway near the outer wall
St. Marys - details
St. Mary's - details
Wall along the citadel
Wall along the citadel
Me
Me
Detail close up
Detail close up
The Venetian walled town
The Venetian walled town
Looking back at the mountains
Looking back at the mountains
Church of St. Ivan - 7th century A…
Church of St. Ivan - 7th century …
St. Marys of Punta - 840 A.D.
St. Mary's of Punta - 840 A.D.
Church of the Holy Trinity - 1804
Church of the Holy Trinity - 1804
Northern beach just outside of Ven…
Northern beach just outside of Ve…
Nothern Beach
Nothern Beach
Budva
Budva
Outer walls
Outer walls
Budva
photo by: tj1777