A Visit To Little Corn
Little Corn Island Travel Blog› entry 15 of 37 › view all entries
June 12th, 2007 – by: gopackjo
Well there is no diving today, but the adventuring continues. The plan today is to take the 10am ferry over to Little Corn Island. I popped up out of bed at about 7:30am, perfect timing to get the day going. I got a taxi from the main road and arrived at the municipal dock by 9:20am. There was a 3 Cordoba dock fee, that is supposed to be for improvements to the facility.
Jenny met me at about 9:35am, and we sat in the shade waiting. An ice cream vendor rolled by, and I got a popsicle for breakfast. At just before 10am I still didn't see the boat but a guy came over to get us. The boat was a panga, and it was quite similar to every boat on the island.
Jenny and I were in the second of four rows, and we were next to a couple that was headed over to Little Corn for a night or two. They had all of their luggage with them, which was stowed in front. The rest of the boat was filled with locals. Before leaving the boatman collected 110 Cordoba ($6) from everybody on board, and then took his place standing up in the front of the boat.
Things started out pretty smooth until we got out into the open water between the islands. At that point we were going into the wind, and the swells were pretty rough. We figured out why all the locals went straight for the seats in back.
When arriving at Little Corn there was no dock, we just skidded onto the beach and a wooden set of stairs was positioned in front to assist in our departures.
There were some immediate visual differences between Little Corn and the big island. Little Corn has no roads. The main 'street' is a paved sidewalk that roughly follows the beach. There are two dive centers and a bunch of restaurants and shops lining the main strip.
We figured we had enough time to circumnavigate the island, and stop a few times along the way. The island was utterly charming. Every business was seemingly well-kept and quaintly painted in colorful Caribbean fashion. It was kind of what I expected Corn Island to be like, but on the big island it's actually more of a functioning city/area with almost 8,000 people. Little Corn has only about 800 people, and it seems a good deal of them are angling for tourism dollars or cordoba.
After getting out of the 'town' you get a real feel for the island. It is a wild, undeveloped, tropical island. When we reached the east side of the island we saw a beautiful expanse of beach, and there were three hotel, restaurant, bars spread across the idyllic setting.
The walk was very nice, and things were wild enough that we lost the path once or twice. Everytime we had to get away from the beach due to rocks or a bluff, the return to the next beach was as perfect as the next. We wandered back into town at about 12:45pm, and were in plenty of time to get another beverage. We stopped at a local shop, and the owner was a woman from the ferry earlier. We talked with her about the difficulty of island life, and asked her every question we could think of about the history and society in the area. She was so friendly, as was everybody on the island.
After moving on we got to the ferry, but were still about 40 minutes early. We parked it again at a small restaurant. This restaurant was a Thai during the evening, and a coffee shop/sandwich place for lunch. I ordered an iced coffee, and then was talked into ordering a quick Bacon Hamburger to shove down before the ferry ride. Jenny ordered a cheese and tomato sandwich, and they were both very good. It was the first hamburger I have had since the states. The owners of the restaurant are from South Africa, and they lamented how difficult it was to get simple things done on the island. But I certainly got the sense that they loved the place, and the laid back life style.
We got seats one row further back for the return journey, but as it turns out we were going with the wind on the way back.
I cruised back to the hotel for a rest. I tried to lay on the beach, but there was zero breeze from the west so the heat drove me back indoors. I got hungry again later on, and at about 8pm I grabbed a taxi. The taxi driver recommended a place in a section of the island I hadn't visited yet. The Picnic Center restaurant is positioned under a yellow tent roof beside a beautiful bay on the north side of the island. There is a very nice white sand beach that streched for about a kilometer in each direction.
After perusing the menu and asked the waitress I decided to go with the grilled lobster for 200 Cordobas ($10.93). The Corn Islands are known for their lobster, but this is the off season. So these tails were either frozen or taken illegaly. I really hope it was the former and not the latter, but I didn't bother to ask. In any case they were delicious and perfectly cooked. The meal was served with a tasty salad, plantain chips (tostones), and white rice. I was very glad that I got to sample one of the things that the Corn Islands are known for. Tomorrow's rundown meal after diving will take care of the other one.
Tomorrow is diving at Blowing Rock, and eating some rundown!
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