Day Three: Up and Down the Bosphorus
Istanbul Travel Blog› entry 4 of 6 › view all entries
April 30th, 2010 – by: edsander
The tourist ferry runs all the way from Istanbul to Anadolu Kavagi, close to where the Bosphorus flows into the Black Sea.
Shortly after the second bridge the boat stopped at Kanlica, which is famous for it's delicious yoghurt. Vendors brought the stuff on board and before long we were sampling the fresh white stuff that proved to be very tasty indeed.
After nibbling away on some of our Turkish Delight and downing a beer on a terrace with a nice view over the Bosphorus and the high-rise in the most northern parts of Istanbul, far away, we walked back down to the harbour. There's countless of restaurants here servicing the many tourists that visit Anadolu Kavagi. Most offer a comparable menu at the same price. We found one close to the bus stop that also served beer and although we were skeptical about the quality I have to admit that the sardines, calamares, mussels, salad and fries were excellent value for money (15 Lira for food and a beer; roughly 7 Euro).
Instead of taking the (relatively expensive) ferry back to Istanbul we opted for a return trip overland, as the Lonely Planet suggested. Our destination was the Galata Tower in Istanbul. Along the way we decided not to visit any sights in order to arrive a bit earlier at Galata. At half past three we took the local bus from Anadolu Kavagi to Kanlica (40 min), where we quickly bought some more yoghurt before jumping on the ferry that would bring us from Asia back to Europe (20 min). In Bebek we took a bus back to the Kabatas tram station in Istanbul, where we took a tram to the Galata bridge and a funicular up the hill to Tünel. All in all a trip that took a bit longer than the 1,5 hours on he ferry but was also more adventurous and a lot cheaper. It was also fun travelling by public transport and it enabled us to watch life as it passed by outside the tourist areas of Istanbul.
Arriving at the Galata Tower it turned out to be rather crowded, expensive to visit and people were queuing outside, so we decided to take a few pictures of this 14th century structure (one of the oldest towers in the world) and head for a bar that could offer us our daily nargileh and a beer. At eight we walked further northwards into Istanbul's Istiklal Cadessi neighbourhood. Here the world suddenly changed. The historical buildings of Sulthanamet and Topkapi gave way to modern Istanbul with a broad shopping street that could easily rival Amsterdam's Kalverstraat. We would later be told that 2 million people pass through this street every day! Tourists were a minority here and the Turks were much more fashionable.
Today was Queensday in Holland and to our surprise we suddenly heard a Dutch sing-along song ('Heb je even voor mij'), played by a brass band.
Again we decided to have cold and warm meze for dinner and they were excellent, even more tasty that the ones we had two nights ago. Especially the restaurants specialty, a maze with meat and a cinnamon taste, is worth mentioning. The food was accompanied by a nice glass of raki and after we had a cup of Turkish coffee (on the house!) we walked back down the shopping street of Istiklal and the steep streets of Galata - which are filled with stores selling musical instruments - down to the Golden Horn river.
Pictures by Biedjee, Derk and Ed. Click here for the story from Biedjee's point of view.
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