Xunantunich

The journey to Xunantunich took us across the whole of Belize, almost to the border with Guatemala. After passing through the town of San Ignacio, we continued on the Western Highway to a point where we had to cross the Mopan River. The ferry, which reminded me of White's Ferry on the Potomac, cannot accommodate a tour bus. We had to disembark and the cross the river on the ferry on foot. Several minivans were waiting on the other side to take us the last few miles to the Xunantunich site. Xunantunich is in the mountains and so is much cooler than Tulum.

A knowledgeable male guide took over from the lady guide at Xunantunich.

He took us through the ruins and explained the significance of the bas-reliefs and structures. Xunantunich is a city from the Classic Mayan period. It is older than Tulum and was already abandoned by the time the Europeans arrived. It is not far from the Tikal site in Guatemala. Both cities were inhabited at the same time. But the two cities were not allies or trading partners. In fact, we were told they were rivals and at war with one another. Xunantunich is still only partly excavated and much of it remains overgrown. A caretaker was beating back the ever-present jungle with a gas-powered weed whacker as we toured the site. We walked around the site to see several pyramids, walls, platforms, a preserved stele, and the ritual ball court.  A small museum houses several stele recovered at the site. Dominating the site is "El Castillo", the main temple.

The climb to the top of the 130-foot main pyramid is one of my peak travel experiences. There is nothing to support you on the way up save the steep and narrow steps the Mayans originally built and the view at the top is spectacular. In one direction lies the green Mopan River Valley in Belize. In the other, one can look into Guatemala. The visit to Xunantunich was wonderful!

After the tour, the bus took us to Windy Hill Resort back down the main highway. We enjoyed a lunch of typical Belize foods: chicken, beans and rice, fried plantin and tropical juice. Marimba players entertained us and added a festive air to the afternoon.