Kornati Islands and NP Telaščica

Telascica Travel Blog

 › entry 6 of 8 › view all entries

In the morning we find the Yugo moved a couple of meters away, and a new fishing boat tied up to the quay. The fisherman was untangeling his net, a few fish cought up in it. He was so focused at his work, that it seemed he hadn't seen us, although we were tied up right next to him. While he was working, a few cats came up and started walking up and down the quay, lurking towards him. Every now and then the fisherman would throw a fish into their direction, and they would rush to be the first to get it. As we were standing there observing the scene, it was fascinating to see the old man's total indifference towards us, he seemed as he was completely alone there. Him and the cats. As he finished his work, he took a box full of fish and went to put it in the car.

he absolutely minded his own business
He returned to the boat, checked if it was tight up and turned to leave. At this moment he took a quick glance at us, waved and said "Bye". Got into his car and drove off. I always knew that the islanders were a special species :)

Today the weather forcast says strong Jugo, a southern, humid wind which brings clouds and rain. Strong Jugo can be just as tricky as strong Bura, but at least it's not freezing cold. But luckily, it turned out to be rather moderate, just perfect for sailing. So we set sails and spend a warm, cloudy day cruising through the Kornati archipelago, an area of 220 km2, with 89 islands, islets and reefs and about 238 km of shoreline. The islands are rocky or covered with grass, and mostly uninhabited.

Kornati islands
But, it's all private properties and the land owners have little houses there as refuges, or have rebuilt them to serve as taverns. Our plan was to stop at one of these taverns, have dinner and stay the night. But soon we learn that off season really means off season - everything is closed. So we call up the tavern-owner Goro at Dugi Otok, another island next to Kornati National Park, our alternative stop. He tells me, quote: Dear lady, everything is closed, there's not even a dog out there! Okay, we are no dogs, but apparently stick out like a coloured dog. We did pass only a couple of sailing boats, there aren't many of us here. As we decide to sail to Dugi Otok and the bay of Telaščica Nature Park, hoping that at least the state-administered Nature Park will be open, Goro calls.
He has contacted the manager of NP Telaščica, and encourages me to call him and set up a dinner appointment. I thank Goro for his help and call the manager. He says that the NP is kind of closed, but the cook is still there, and if we like he can make some dinner for us. Now I feel kind of uncomfortable and assure him that we don't want to cause any inconvenience, and we can make dinner by ourselves on the boat. But the manager is insistent, and so we arrange to meet the cook once we get there.

Today we sail 8 hours, and I discover one more thing: I am able to just sit there for hours and do nothing but stare ahead of me. Don't need the radio, or tv or a book or whatever. Just sit and stare at the islands, the sky and the sea. Eventually, I doze off, but still - I could never do that at home.

I mean, what a waste of time, right? But here? Carpe diem gets a whole new meaning.

We arrive at Telaščica Nature Park and anchor at a quay. Inge and me go see the cook, and he tells us, all he can do is a barbecue and some fries. He doesn't know the price, so I call up the manager again, and he doesn't know the price either, so he calls up the waiter, just to call me up again and tell me the price. The effort this man takes is refreshing, and I'm kinda proud (lame, I know). We agree, and order dinner. Two hours later we get two pots with grilled meet and fries. At the boat we have prepared salad, and it turns out a delicious meal. I call up the manager again, but this time to thank him for his effort and the great meal. I think he was also a little bit proud :)


Join TravBuddy to leave comments, meet new friends and share travel tips!
he absolutely minded his own busin…
he absolutely minded his own busi…
Kornati islands
Kornati islands
and the water IS cold
and the water IS cold
photo by: vila