The Hut

Ensenada Travel Blog

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Rolf's son Nick at the very blue KM-56 store
The road to the hut runs a little way in from the coast.  Ok, there are two choices: my favorite it the Free Road, the original highway that runs along the beach, through all the little towns.  The downside is that it takes a really long time since there's a stopsign every block or two for 50 miles.  It's cool if you make that the trip though. 


We took the Toll Road.  You don't see as much, but you get there a lot sooner.  They found it necessary though to put a toll booth every couple miles that takes some arbitrary, ever-changing toll, exact change only.  On the way down it'll be $2.10, on the way back $1.30.  You never know.  In any case, we were amazed at the amount of development that had taken place in the last year.  Every bit of the coastline was full of condos, hotels, rental houses.
Ramon's campo, an assortment of trailers, huts, and anything else that can be built with found material
..  Wow!  It was hard to recognize where we were.

At Kilometer 56, we stopped for the necessary supplies and fireworks.  Everything in Baja is known by what kilometer it's at.  There's pretty much one highway that runs the length of the peninsula so it's a good measure of how far down you're going.  Everything else is "go to Kilometer 324, then head west to... whatever the spot is.  Anyway, Kilometer 56 is the bluest place in the world, the store is blue. The walls are blue.  The rocks are painted blue.  The bluest blue too.

There used to be "campos" all along the coastline of northern Baja. These were basically trailer parks, but as the trailers typically became more house-like over the years. Rolf's hut has a trailer as it's "nucleus" and over the years people have built around it, adding a living room, bedroom, steam sauna, patio.
The Hut on the beach in Baja. It's not actually right at Ensenada, but at an undisclosed location...
.. until it's more like a house. Sadly, in the past few years, most of the campos have been replaced by condominiums and houses, Campo Ramon, is one of the last remaining campos on the coast now. There's a giant marina going in on one side, and a golf resort on the other, so it's days are probably numbered.

The campo is on a tongue of black lava rock that extends from the cliffs down into the ocean.  This gives a rocky coastline with tidepools full of sea creatures.  There are bright red bat starfish, green sea anemones that could swallow you're head, darting sculpin, bright purple urchins, and whatever fish are trapped in the pools as the tide goes  out.  We usually end up in the water, but this time big surf pounding on the rocks and 50-degree water kept us out.
Inside the hut
  There's a good surfing beach just a short walk around the corner with rock reefs for snorkeling.

The hut is sadly, rarely used these days so the first order of business clearing out the scorpions and black widow spiders.  It's actually a pretty comfortable place, all glass and wood.  The roof is a good place to lay and watch the sun set.  Somehow the Baja sunsets are always redder and brighter and ...Baja-er than in San Diego, just a few miles north.  After cooking up some lobster that Rolf caught earlier,  we built a big fire, heated lava rocks to red hot, and shoveled them into the steam sauna.  The sauna is yet another plywood extension to the hut "compound".  I'm not sure why, but being steamed always feels good.

We debated lurking in the hut the next day versus taking the "long way" back through the interior to the border crossing at Tecate.  Tecate won...
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Rolfs son Nick at the very blue K…
Rolf's son Nick at the very blue …
Ramons campo, an assortment of tr…
Ramon's campo, an assortment of t…
The Hut on the beach in Baja.  It…
The Hut on the beach in Baja. It…
Inside the hut
Inside the hut
First order of business, clearing …
First order of business, clearing…
Big surf with a rocky coast cut do…
Big surf with a rocky coast cut d…
Bat star and green anemone in the …
Bat star and green anemone in the…
Rocks end, sand begins...
Rocks end, sand begins...
You can do bad things like launch …
You can do bad things like launch…
A big pile of sand turns out to be…
A big pile of sand turns out to b…
Sunset on the roof
Sunset on the roof
Sunset over the huts
Sunset over the huts
Heating lava rocks for the sauna
Heating lava rocks for the sauna
Spadefoot toad visits during the n…
Spadefoot toad visits during the …
185 km (115 miles) traveled
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Ensenada
photo by: furiousfowl