“A little bit of the old world living on in pleasant ignorance of the new”
September 29, 2009
These are the words of a Victorian poet, also haunted by the Rye's Mermaid call. But this is just my observation and it's unfair, for it distracts you away from the reality.
Of course, I am not one (mermaid), just a tourist, enchanted and attracted by this world of ancient wisdom's, tales and fabulations. I wouldn't be alone, many people, fascinated by ghosts, embark on a trail hunt in the Sussex countryside's towns and villages.
Rye (one such place), is one of the Cinque Ports fishing town with a harbor and charming old cobbled streets.
I had the privilege to live nearby, in the historical town of Hastings, another fishing town in the 1066 country.
However, you would be a short drive from Brighton, Battle (with its Abbey), Canterbury with the well known Cathedral and of course- the famous Canterbury tales. ..
There is so much to see, the Sussex and Kent countrysides are some of the most breathtakingly beautiful in the South of England, with quaint villages, old churches, castles and ruins, unspoiled seashores and of course, lots of sheep!
A few miles away you could walk away on the beautiful beaches of the Camber Sands (my absolute favorite spot) and, when it's not populated by beach goers it's been used as a backdrop for a few films. If you would be walking your dog, around six o'clock am, you would see me and others, caution to the wind, galloping fast alongside the English Channel waters. Just bliss!
But lets concentrate on Rye, for now, and I will take you to these places some other time...
If you come from the East, you will first cross the bridge over the river Rother and you will see on your left, stranded until the next tide, the fishing and leisure boats. A little further you will come across a beautiful park and a football pitch and of course, the manicured Rye bowls pitch (home of the Mermaid's Bowls league).
Sport is important and Rye prides itself with owning one of the oldest cricket clubs in the country. There is also the exclusive Rye Golf Club which hosts the legendary President's Putter competition between the Oxford and the Cambridge University, in January each year (brrrrrrr).
Up the hill, you will come across The Customs House, facing the Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin. In the courtyard you will find the Ypres Tower, built around 1250, as a defense against the French invasion. Alongside it you will walk on the Watchbell Street and wonder in amazement past the old Tudor, Regency, Queen Anne homes, still lived in today. Notice the word "style" is missing- this is the real deal, folks!
You will walk past the Customs House, with its crooked chimney, and you will hear of the constant battles between the Customs and the Smugglers. Nearby lies the historical Lamb House, home of the writer Henry James but also put on the map by the visit of King George I in 1726.
The old buildings are also home to countless antique shops, potteries, art studio's and galleries, a hat shop (just where did you think I bought my hats from?).
The Rye Medieval Weekend is part of the Rye Festival and the visitors traveling from far away all gather on the streets to watch the sword fighting. Another event that should not be missed is the Rye Bonfire night, with its procession through the town, ending in an unbelievable display of fireworks and of course, the bonfire.
Each May Bank Holiday the Mermaid's car park is lined with visitors watching the dancing Morris Men.
Gosh, there is so much to see, this little town is packed with history but I have saved la piece de resistance for last: The Mermaid Inn on the Mermaid Street. I will write a review. But this special place is haunted.
I have changed my mind and I am now one of the ghosts, haunting this lovely and ancient hotel. Perhaps I am a woman in love, who has cut herself on the shards of broken dreams, and bled to death. Or I could be one of the Smugglers, closely associated with this place.
Or- would you still prefer a Mermaid?
Take your pick.
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A piece of history
The jewel in the crown of Rye, The Mermaid Inn is a fascinating and special place.
A lovely and old hotel, the place exists from 1156 (still has the original cellars) but the hotel was rebuilt around 1420.
Believed to be a haunted place, The Mermaid Inn has been featured in the first of the series 'Most Haunted' and, each Halloween, four rooms are particularly booked by the ghost hunters, keen to catch a glimpse of the spirits. Spooky!
The most requested room,however, remains the Elizabethan Chamber, a hideaway for the true romantics.
This is a large oak paneled room with a magnificent four-poster bed (hmmmm!).
If you think you can book it now for the Valentines day next year, think again- it's already booked (and I think, with a waiting list). Unless of course, you could bribe the concierge (but I doubt it).
Another special room is Dr Syn’s Bedchamber, concealing a secret stairway behind a bookcase.
The rooms are linked by secret passages as well, probably built to secure a fast getaway for the smugglers, hiding away from the Customs.
Or it could ensure lovers could visit one another, unencumbered.
The other bedrooms all offer wood paneling, latticed windows, stone fireplaces. The rooms situated on the second floor are particularly intriguing, when you see how curved is the timber supporting the ceilings.
Downstairs you could stretch your legs in front of one of the largest open log fires in England.
Even as an outside visitor you could treat yourself to a dinner in the AA Rosette restaurant where you could sample fine British and French cuisine.
The head chef prides itself in only using the freshest local supplies (the local lamb is delicious!!!).
If you were to book a room at this lovely place, you would be in good company: Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, Prince Edward, Charlie Chaplin, Johny Depp, Pierce Brosnan to name a few, have all visited this special hotel.
And, with rooms starting from 80 pounds sterling for Bed and Breakfast, what would you buy other than a piece of history and some of the fondest memories ever!
Of course, having lived a mere twelve miles away, I have only had dinner at The Mermaid Inn; but I am looking forward to stay.
A lovely and old hotel, the place exists from 1156 (still has the original cellars) but the hotel was rebuilt around 1420.
Believed to be a haunted place, The Mermaid Inn has been featured in the first of the series 'Most Haunted' and, each Halloween, four rooms are particularly booked by the ghost hunters, keen to catch a glimpse of the spirits. Spooky!
The most requested room,however, remains the Elizabethan Chamber, a hideaway for the true romantics.
This is a large oak paneled room with a magnificent four-poster bed (hmmmm!).
If you think you can book it now for the Valentines day next year, think again- it's already booked (and I think, with a waiting list). Unless of course, you could bribe the concierge (but I doubt it).
Another special room is Dr Syn’s Bedchamber, concealing a secret stairway behind a bookcase.
The rooms are linked by secret passages as well, probably built to secure a fast getaway for the smugglers, hiding away from the Customs.
Or it could ensure lovers could visit one another, unencumbered.
The other bedrooms all offer wood paneling, latticed windows, stone fireplaces. The rooms situated on the second floor are particularly intriguing, when you see how curved is the timber supporting the ceilings.
Downstairs you could stretch your legs in front of one of the largest open log fires in England.
Even as an outside visitor you could treat yourself to a dinner in the AA Rosette restaurant where you could sample fine British and French cuisine.
The head chef prides itself in only using the freshest local supplies (the local lamb is delicious!!!).
If you were to book a room at this lovely place, you would be in good company: Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, Prince Edward, Charlie Chaplin, Johny Depp, Pierce Brosnan to name a few, have all visited this special hotel.
And, with rooms starting from 80 pounds sterling for Bed and Breakfast, what would you buy other than a piece of history and some of the fondest memories ever!
Of course, having lived a mere twelve miles away, I have only had dinner at The Mermaid Inn; but I am looking forward to stay.

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Who said the English can't cook?
Having been looked after so well in Warsaw, I am a little lost as to where to take my Polish friends Olga and Barbara.
Finally, after a quick deliberation we decided that one cannot compare a capital city such as Warsaw to a little corner of Englishness such as East Sussex. After all, we are in the country- country.
The drive from Hastings to Rye takes no longer than fifteen minutes but we took a coastal route through Fairlight.
The weather was more like December than early October, typically grey and windy with little spells of happy sunshine.
But the girls were so enchanted by the quaint and antique feel of this place- I don't know why we worried.
We were asked for Fish & Chips in a newspaper (!)- but in the end we opted for a sit down meal at Carey's Seafood and Steak Bar.
From the outside it looks like an old fashioned pub but on the inside it was light, airy, simplistic and very clean. And warm.
The food arrived promptly and the presentation I thought was very good- much better than expected.
Olga opted for the delicious moules mariniere, whilst the rest of us went for Sea bream with crushed new potatoes & parsnips, petit-pois and sweet carrots, all washed down with an excellent Chardonnay.
The service was excellent, we were looked after well and asked several times if everything was allright.
The whole meal was extremely reasonable- for example a whole fresh lobster was only 20 sterling pounds (perhaps next time) and I will definitely visit again.
Afterwards, fortified by the wine we braved the wind and took a most pleasant walk though Rye- to the delight of our guests.
Finally, after a quick deliberation we decided that one cannot compare a capital city such as Warsaw to a little corner of Englishness such as East Sussex. After all, we are in the country- country.
The drive from Hastings to Rye takes no longer than fifteen minutes but we took a coastal route through Fairlight.
The weather was more like December than early October, typically grey and windy with little spells of happy sunshine.
But the girls were so enchanted by the quaint and antique feel of this place- I don't know why we worried.
We were asked for Fish & Chips in a newspaper (!)- but in the end we opted for a sit down meal at Carey's Seafood and Steak Bar.
From the outside it looks like an old fashioned pub but on the inside it was light, airy, simplistic and very clean. And warm.
The food arrived promptly and the presentation I thought was very good- much better than expected.
Olga opted for the delicious moules mariniere, whilst the rest of us went for Sea bream with crushed new potatoes & parsnips, petit-pois and sweet carrots, all washed down with an excellent Chardonnay.
The service was excellent, we were looked after well and asked several times if everything was allright.
The whole meal was extremely reasonable- for example a whole fresh lobster was only 20 sterling pounds (perhaps next time) and I will definitely visit again.
Afterwards, fortified by the wine we braved the wind and took a most pleasant walk though Rye- to the delight of our guests.
So desperately needs refurbishme…
Sea Bream dish- quite nice prese…
Lovely antique- never seen one b…
My brother Narcis and his wife, …
A squashed old trombone- I wonde…
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