We really like Akumal!
Akumal Travel Blog› entry 14 of 15 › view all entries
Thursday, October 29, 2009
We woke up early and decided to walk to the square and find something to ead and ended up having breakfast at a cute, artsy little coffee joint that had good coffee and bagels and croissants. We discussed changing hotels and hanging out in Puerto Morelos another day but eventually decided to head to Akumal so we headed back to the lovely Carmen Hacienda and packed up.
The manager thankfully was not at the front desk when we went to check out early and the young kid was confused since our check-in card said that we were staying for two nights. He tried to initially charge us for both nights and when I pointed out that we only stayed one, he examined the check-in card more closely and I saw that the sleazy manager had officially charged us the "national" rate and no doubt intended to pocket the difference.
It's a pretty short drive south to Akumal where you turn off the main highway and head towards the beach, eventually coming to a sort of small set of shops and what looks like a resort. After nosing around a bit, we figured out that you have do drive through that resort and onto a really bumpy, dirt and cobblestone paved road that parallels the beach and runs past a whole bunch of upscale looking condos and personal homes. Many of them are beach-front and look really, really nice (and no doubt expensive - this is clearly a pricey part of the Mayan Riviera.
We had a little trouble finding the highly recommended Que Onda Bed and Breakfast located all the way at the very end of the road right next to the Laguna de Yal-ku which is a giant protected lagoon in which you can go snorkeling.
After checking in and taking a refreshing dip in the pool, the manager, after getting chastised by a diva-esque obviously wealthy local woman, asked if we could move rooms since he made a mistake and they had four or five people staying in a single room (apparently supposed to be the one we were in).
Since there wasn't much going on at Que Onda, we decided we would have dinner there later and headed into "town" for lunch ultimately deciding to go to a little taco stand at the entrance to Akumal. The food ended up being really tasty and cheap and we sat enjoying our Tacos de Puerco with beers chatting with two couples from Denver and Utah. We stocked up on provisions (beer and some miniature Cuban cigars that are probably fake) at the little store and then decided to try a bit of snorkelling off of the beach at Half Moon Bay (not the one in San Francisco which would be really chilly.
Back to Que Onda for a nip of the agave juice, beers and a cigar on our deck overlooking the sunset before walking over to the rocks on the beach to watch the pink sun sink into the Caribbean Sea. We were the only people out there and enjoyed the spectacular end to the day before walking back for dinner. Que Onda has a kind of eclectic, Mexican-Italian menu and the food was actually really good. Of course sitting at a thatch covered outdoor restaurant drinking beers with your feet in the sand makes everything taste better.
Friday, October 30, 2009
We woke up early to no avail as we had to wait for someone from Que Onda to show up so we could get tickets into Laguna Yal-ku which has an entrance fee.
We walked out to the platform where you sit and put your gear on and slipped into the water, a little chilly for Cindy's tastes but no too bad for this early in the morning. Laguna Yal-ku is sort of akin to snorkeling in the bay that the submarine ride at Disnelyand putts along in. There is not much to see and there is a very bizarre inversion layer where the cold fresh water from the local cenotes mixes with the warm sea water from the ocean.
We gave it a shot and swam almost all the way out to the ocean by the rocks where we watched sunset last night but eventually turned back as there really wasn't much to see and it was kind of boring. We had a really nice breakfast at Que Onda where we met a couple from Seattle, Neil and August, who we ended up talking with for quite some time.