Crossing Tehran's streets like a game of Russian roulette

Tehran Travel Blog

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The motorcycles weaving between the pedestrian on the footpath in an attempt to escape the gridlock and all manner of cars and busses hurtling towards each other.

22 hours bus ride from Yerevan finally reached Tehran the next morning. The bus dropped passengers at Jolfa, Tabriz and Zanjan before made to Tehran at 9.30 am Saturday morning. My only guide is Lonely Planet chapter section that I purchased online and printed in Yerevan. It was impossible to find English book in Yerevan let alone in Iran. I should have it before I embarking the journey but t in a true backpacker spirit in seeking adventures trail I opted not to have detail guide book, in the end I succumbed to it half way.

Where should I stay in Tehran?

As I stepped out the bus, local taxi driver approached relentless on where should I stay. Budget place always come to mind, I took a paykan (Persian’s automobile) to Firouzeh Hotel in southern Tehran.

Sunday shopping in Tehran bazar
A glimpse of Tehrani city’s life from the bus station to the hotel, I’ve seen the chaotic traffic that almost anything goes on the road. The motorcycles weaving between the pedestrian on the footpath in an attempt to escape the gridlock and all manner of cars and busses hurtling towards each other. The volumes of traffic was overwhelming and made crossing a street seems like a game of Russian roulette, only in this game there are few empty chambers. Surprisingly there are not more accident.

I freshened-up upon checked in the hotel and update blogs. Later I wandered around towards Imam Khomeini Square and along Ferdosi Street. Watching the hustling, bustling road of one of Tehran busiest Southern streets fare was interesting.

Back to the hotel after lunch I took a napped only woken up 4 hours later.
chaotic traffic that almost anything goes on the road
Went out again at 9pm and by that time most shops had finished their business, less people on the street and less traffic on the road. There are no any sort of entertainment be it bars and night club in Iran after the revolution. Major internet site has been banned in Iran and Travbuddy couldn’t be accessed in the evening, only browsing the site but inaccessible to my own profile..Strange..Because I could during the day.






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The next day I realized the slower internet connection the night before has got to do with the demonstration that planned to happen on Monday by the university student.

Quote from the news:  " TEHRAN, Iran .

Motorcycles taxi
Iranian authorities have slowed Internet connections to a crawl or choked them off completely before expected student protests Monday to deny the opposition a vital means of communication.
In another familiar tactic before such rallies, authorities have ordered journalists working for foreign media organizations not to leave their offices to cover the demonstrations.
Iran's beleaguered opposition has sought to maintain momentum with periodic demonstrations coinciding with state-sanctioned events. Monday's rallies will take place on a day that normally marks a 1953 killing of three students at an anti-U.S. protest. Since the 1990s, the day has served as an occasion for pro-reform protests………”


I should have left Tehran yesterday as to boredom had hit me. The city is so big and I was pretty much seen things I wanted to see.

Tehran bazar
The chaosness, the hustle and bustle still the same like the day before. Tehran is practically not an old city as to the buildings are pretty bland.

At noon I visited the mosque not far from the hostel and performed Dzuhur prayer( noon prayer). The Persian men in the ablution area at the basement gave me a continuous smile. While doing the prayer I realized the Rukun (the sequence and way of doing a pray) was somehow different than the way I’ve been doing it my entire life. Iran is a follower of Shiite Sect of Islam and my country and major countries in the world are flowing Sunni Sect, so that’s the explanation as to the different. The Imam also reading the Quranic Verse in the prayer leisurely like giving a speech, different than Imam fo other prayers.

Soon afterwards I wandered around Imam Khoimeni Square to Ferdoisi Square- nearly 3 km walk during the cloudy and drizzle weather.
Persian boys on the street playing drum
It’s supposed to be a huge student protest of demonstration but I haven’t seen huge mass of riot. Maybe it was away from the part I went. Back to the hotel as I packed my luggage to Kurdish man wanted to have a chat. Free tea being served, a good conversation filled me with knowledge that I didn’t know like there used to be a country between the border of Iran, Iraq,Syria and Turkey for the Kurdish people but it became part of the said country where the Kurdish people became the minority. Ali, Kamran and Amer are Kurdish from the Iran part.
At the train station while waiting I watched the news that the demonstration did happen bit I was away from the scene.

Leaving Tehran to Esfahan by overnight sleeper train was enjoyfull.

Motorcycles taxi
The train is better than any train ride I used to take. 6 berth first class cost me 60000 Riyal (USD 6 ) for intercity ride ! Not like any other train ride at the rest of the world where you bound to be with drunken asshole making horrendous noise, here by 12midnight passengers already sleeping quietly. I was sharing with another 5 Iranian, Meisam lives in Tehran but his wife and family lives in Esfahan. He has limited English but put much effort to have a chat and I applaud that. He tried to explain I should get back 20000 from the train company, something about tax but in the end I forget it as to I didn’t how to explain to the train counter.



Mar_Mar says:
i love all your pictures, thank you for post all of them!
Posted on: Sep 01, 2011
herman_munster says:
Tiring but that's part of backpacking..The Iranian passengers were always trying to strike a conversation although have a very limited english. And for that I truly enjoyed the ride;)
Posted on: Dec 06, 2009
RH122 says:
OMG 22 hrs dalam bas. Lamanye. Sure lenguh satu badan..
Posted on: Dec 06, 2009
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The motorcycles weaving between th…
The motorcycles weaving between t…
Sunday shopping in Tehran bazar
Sunday shopping in Tehran bazar
chaotic traffic that almost anythi…
chaotic traffic that almost anyth…
Motorcycles taxi
Motorcycles taxi
Tehran bazar
Tehran bazar
Persian boys on the street playing…
Persian boys on the street playin…
Motorcycles taxi
Motorcycles taxi
Firouzeh Hotel, Amir Kabir street
Firouzeh Hotel, Amir Kabir street
Saturday ride
Saturday ride
Cars and busses hurtling towards e…
Cars and busses hurtling towards …
Crossing a street seems like a gam…
Crossing a street seems like a ga…
Persian man asked me to snap his p…
Persian man asked me to snap his …
Persian lady wearing chador. almos…
Persian lady wearing chador. almo…
The street infornt of Tehran bazar
The street infornt of Tehran bazar
Sunday shopping inTtehran bazar
Sunday shopping inTtehran bazar
Tehran
photo by: macajam