Israel - Travel to Jerusalem

Much better sleep last night! There were no power cuts, and I slept through the hip hop Arabic roving discos. I woke up early, checked out of the hostel and started on my adventure to Jerusalem. I had a bus, train and then another bus to find to get to my hotel there.

As I was walking to the bus stop in Jaffa, I decided to call the hotel in Jerusalem and make sure all was well. It wasn't! They were overbooked with a school and asked if I wanted to upgrade (for free) to their nicer place. Yes please!

I found the bus stop and watched several buses go by. They were packed with commuters and I couldn't get on with my backpacks due to lack of room. Finally one came along that was relatively empty and on I hopped.

I got off two stops shy of the train station by accident, and had to walk on my still painful blistery feet. I did find the station, no worries, and had an hour wait for the train. There was a security check there but nothing too drastic. I sat, had breakfast (nut bar and OJ) and people-watched again. Israel's Next Top Model was obviously screening for applicants nearby, all the beautiful people were out and about again. There was a married couple, who were employed to clean the station, screaming and yelling at each other in Hebrew. There was also a much stronger security presence, with very young men and women in uniforms and M16s and pistols casually walking around or running to catch trains.

It took some getting used to. I chatted to an older couple for a while who were giving me some pointers about Jerusalem.

Along came a train at the scheduled time and I hopped in. Hey, it was headed to the beach city of Lod, so the older couple screamed at me! "Get off!" and so I did. Nice for them to let me know!

Along came the right train, and this time I read the Hebrew on the front to confirm it was going to Jerusalem. The older couple gave me an approving nod as I hopped on, and I waved them goodbye. In Australia we have a neat train called "Puffing Billy". I dubbed this train "Puffing Pinchas" ("Pinchas" is my Hebrew name) and off we went.

I took the train because folks online stated it was quite a ride. The first 30 minutes had me worried about this. We rolled through some shanty suburbs on the outskirts of Tel Aviv; really run down homes mixed in with various factories and what looked like petro-chemical plants. Some homes had camels parked in their backyards. In one back yard, a group of Arab boys shot at our train with plastic rifles.

Then, after that the ride got interesting. Puffing Pinchas started to climb the hills that would get us to Jerusalem. The hills and canyons were impressive. Some were fairly barren and steep, others were covered in shrubs and eucalyptus trees. Here and there were deep caves and systems of stone walls. I wonder what the history is there...

Puffing Pinchas rolled into Jerusalem, and I could already see some stone white buildings sitting on the hilltops. After getting off the train I had a problem. My feet were pretty sore and the buses didn't go too close to my hotel. So I busted out a little extra cash and took a cab.

My cab driver was great fun. His name was Eli and was a Jerusalem native. He realized I could speak some Hebrew and gave me a more advanced lesson as we drove through the streets, which was great fun. As we talked we drove through some delightful suburbs around the city, with white and grey-stone apartment buildings covered in vines and draping flowers. We also drove by the residence and compound of Benjamin Netanyahu, the Israeli PM.

Eli dropped me off at the hotel and we wished each other well in Hebrew. He was a nice chap. The hotel, the Montefoire on Schatz, is nice - probably as good as mid-level hotel in the USA. I settled in and nursed my feet while making quick calls to my wife and my parents, just to let them know I had safely made to Jerusalem. Then I was off...

So my hotel is in what is called New Jerusalem City, which consists of the newer stuff built by the Israelis in the west of Jerusalem. It is the political capital of Israel. The Old City is where all of the religious and historical sites exist. It is divided into four quarters; Jewish, Christian, Muslim and Armenian. Within the Old City walls, it is really a city within itself full of markets, hotels, schools and homes. My plan was to just check out the New City and stay close to the hotel so as to keep my feet rested (Get the drift? They really are in bad shape after my initial day hiking Tel Aviv.)

I found the main street, which is Jaffa Road, and looked around for a while. Lots of cool stores mixed with regular retail stores. The people were as smart and trendy as those in Tel Aviv, with more soldiers and Orthodox Jews thrown into the mix. The New City was very hip and vibrant and not what I expected.

I found Ben Yehuda Street, another popular hangout full of cafes and eateries. I ended up at Sam's Bagels and ordered a massive smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel. I was served by a happy young chap who looked like Elijah Wood. Already my experiences with people here were far different than with those in Tel Aviv...

After lunch I felt the Old City calling. It was late in the afternoon but I felt that I just had to go there. It was a mere 15 minutes away.

Walking unto the Old City is a bit like a roller coaster. You feel apprehensive as you climb the big steep hill before the inevitable drop, then feel euphoria as you get tossed around afterwards. As I approached the city walls, I got rather apprehensive, but when I walked through the Jaffa Gate I was just stunned by it all. It really was like stepping back in time and I loved every second.

Initially you're presented with old markets and restaurants. The air is filled with both the smell of grilled meats and to a lesser degree, sewerage. I was approached by a tour guide who wanted to show me around. All for free of course! I told him I had been here before and thanks, and he left me alone. Cool trick that!

I found the Petra Hotel just inside the Jaffa Gate. I had read that if you pay the receptionist a small fee, they will allow you up on the roof for a great view. I did just this, climbed up some old wooden steps and indeed was presented with an amazing site. I could see all of the Old City's rooftops, with the Dome of the Rock and various other cathedrals here and there. Stunning view, and after taking tons of snaps I sat on one of the chairs up there and just took it all in.

I then headed off and explored. I wandered through some marketplaces, with their thin dark corridors and various wares for sale. Lots of souvenir rubbish, Judaica, charms, jewels, fresh breads and vegetables, rugs and clothes. I didn't get heckled, mostly because I didn't stop and look around and made no eye contact with anyone!

I went down tons of different alleyways, both populated with folks and some being rather desolate. I didn't feel freaked out or intimidated at all but kept my eyes open. I didn't really have a plan, but walked with purpose and chutzpah (Yiddish for "attitude")! The second you stop and open a map here, someone is onto you asking if you want a personal tour or discounts in their store!

I stumbled around some stairways in the Jewish Quarter, climbing to a fair height before reaching a balcony. Below and in front of me was the Wailing Wall, the last standing remnant of the Second Temple. In front of it were dozens of people praying and taking it in. Above and to the left was the Dome of the Rock, one of Islam's holiest sites which is built around the Ka'aba, the large stone where it is said Abraham offered his son to God for sacrifice as part of a test. This is the stereotypical Jerusalem, and when you see it right in front of you, it's awesome.

I decided to check it all out in more detail tomorrow and headed off again, just to get my bearings. I headed south and ended up near some monasteries, and looked for the cemetery where Oskar Schindler was buried. I couldn't quite find it as the layout of the Old City is nuts and is rather easy to get lost in! I kept wandering around the Jewish Quarter, passing different schools and synagogues before heading out ahead of sunset. As I made my way out, I passed a platoon of Israeli soldiers, all fully armed, but standing around in no particular order. Quite a startling sight initially, but you settle down when you see how relaxed they are. A few of them even bid me "Shalom" as I passed.

Interestingly, as I walked around the Southern walls, I could see some of the contentious Jewish settlements and behind them, a massive wall which separated them from the West Bank (i.e. Palestinians). I took a snap using my zoom, being real casual about it!

I left and looked for some dinner. I ended up at a place called Hotel Zion, and ordered Kosher chicken schnitzel and chips, which was excellent. It came with an appetizer of onion pita bread with hummus and grilled egg plant. To my surprise the eggplant was delicious. I also had a local beer called “Maccabee” which didn't last long! At the table next to me sat a bunch of Jewish men who were having a fun chat. Eventually they invited me over and we sat and talked about the city, the Torah (they were visiting from various countries to study biblical Hebrew and were very religious), Texas and Melbourne (My other hometown)! They gave me some great recommendations for further exploration.

Back at the hotel with some special bandages on my feet that I picked up from the local chemist and eating a Mars bar which they sell here. Today was a huge day. Jerusalem is stunning and seems to be a friendlier place to be than Tel Aviv. A very interesting mix of hipness, ancient tradition and architecture. I am already considering changing my plans to stay here for the rest of the trip as opposed to going back to Jaffa. We'll see.