Time to Split
Plitvice Travel Blog› entry 2 of 3 › view all entries
November 2nd, 2003 – by: genetravelling
I would soon learn all about the history of the Balkans. Basically it is a long, tumultuous and morose past involving impact from almost every surrounding large nation (Germany, Austria, Hungary, Turkey, Italy..
Zagreb was a great little city. I met up with a hord of Canadian NATO troops on R&R from Bosnia and will attempt to never do so again. They were the epitomy of everything to be ashamed about being an English speaking Westerner. I had to apologise to barmaids and waitresses everywhere we went. The shopping was fantastic and I quickly noted that absolutely no one was working and everyone was out drinking coffee. So I joined them...
I caught a bus to the much talked about Plitvice Lakes National Park in the middle of the country. The bus dropped me off at the wrong stop, at night in the dark, of a very cold and bear infested forrest. Entrance1 was open during winter and had plenty of cheap accomodation. I was 20km away at the closed and mostly abandoned Entrance2. I stumbled through the forrest in the dark with my pack, tripped and hurt my ankle and eventually saw a light and limped to it. There was a security guard to one of the closed Hotels. He had no idea what I was saying and couldn’t understand what the hell I was doing there. Every attempt to expain it only confused him further. After beating him in paper scissors rock he took me to the only open place in the area which was a 5star hotel and it cost a fortune (in local terms). So I suited up, joined a group of old Japanese businessmen, and treated myself to the 2nd best dam local trout ive ever gormandized, before retreating to my Emperor sized bed...
The lakes were worth it! They are a huge series of delectable cascading waterfalls which run for about 20km. I walked the whole thing and uncharacteristically more or less kept to the path only to later find there are suspected landmines off the tracks. I think the photos say it all..
I hitched a ride from the highway off to Split the next day. This city was my first visit to the Dalmation Coast. Just like the dog, there a lot of interesting 'spots' and over 101 good reasons to visit.. The area also has a strong Venetian influence. White marble abounds. It was beautiful. This is party central in summer with about 40 thumping islands of the coast. I was introduced to Burek here. Its all I ate for the next week as there were hardly any restaurants around and it very difficult to find food! Burek is pastry rolled around either sausage meat, ricotta cheese, or spinach. Its dirt cheap and great hangover food. But eating it four times a day can drive you mad. But eating it four times a day can drive you mad. But eating it four times a day can drive you mad. If I thought Zagreb was lazy then Split was comatose. Apparently the Dalmations are known for being lazy. It must be something in the air…or the Burek…I almost didn’t leave.
I finally managed to split and headed to Dubrovnik...
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