Riquewihr without the crowds

Riquewihr Travel Blog

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We both slept well but I woke up at 6:00 with the sudden realization that I hadn’t checked voicemail all weekend. I couldn’t get back to sleep so I dressed, went to the car and got the cell phone. I had to walk to the church to get a cell signal but had nothing on voicemail. Climbed back into bed and slept until 9:30. I dressed and went downstairs while Linda got ready. Karl and Gisela were having breakfast so I sat with them until they left at 10:00. Linda came down a few minutes later and we were joined for breakfast by Tassos and Sophia. We had a delightful conversation over a long and leisurely breakfast, then went up to finish packing. When I tried to pay for the room, I discovered that Karl had already settled the bill. We said goodbye to Tassos and Sophia and headed to Riquewihr as they headed for Strasbourg.

We had a great time in Riquewihr as it was not crowded and we had lots of time. This is a very nice town. There's almost nowhere you can aim your camera without getting a nice picture and we found the people to be almost universally friendly. We enjoyed Flammkuchen and Riesling at a street café. Flammkuchen, also known as Tarte Flambeé, is rather like a thin pizza with cream and onions as the topping. It's a bit different and quite tasty. After lunch, we found a rather strange gentleman playing a clarinet in front of a store and learned that his name was Hubert Bannwarth. He’s made a number of CD’s and was selling them from the store. I planned on buying one but ended up buying two with a third thrown in. Neat guy and great salesman!

We’d walked enough so we decided to leave Riquewihr to find a hotel in Ribeauvillé.

This was definitely a mistake! We found nothing we liked in Ribeauvillé, so we searched for two from the “Passport” book. This is a small book we've had for years. It's now out of print but we've done well with it. We found that both were isolated and had restaurants that were closed so we ended up back at Riquewihr at Hotel Le Schoenenbourg, just outside the city wall. We booked a nice room for two nights, then walked into town and, after some selection, chose Le Grappe d’Or for dinner. This was a simple Alsacian meal of onion soup, chicken and chocolate mousse for Lin and escargot, choucroute garni and Munster cheese for me, accompanied by 1-1/2 bottles of Riesling. Seated at the table next to us was a couple from Antwerp and we had a nice conversation with them. We eventually left and returned to the hotel.

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Hubert Bannwarth
Hubert Bannwarth
Linda & Hubert Bannwarth
Linda & Hubert Bannwarth
photo by: Vikram