Back in the castle again

Oberwesel Travel Blog

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We set the GPS on fastest way to Bingen, then followed route 9 to Oberwesel. We knew from prior experience that this road has a beautiful view of what is probably the most magnificent part of the Rhine river. On the off chance that they’d have a room available, we stopped at Burghotel auf Schönburg where we'd stayed in 1989. This time, we wanted to stay for two nights. It being the weekend, we figured the odds were pretty low. Learning that they had a large room (#20) for tonight but only a tiny one (#15) for tomorrow, we agreed to take the large one, then move. The owner assured us he’d make a reservation for dinner in the restaurant.

Number 20 is fantastic. It’s a corner room with one side looking over the town and down river and the other looking up river to the Pfalz castle which sits on a tiny island in the middle of the Rhine.

Getting into this hotel is a treat. First, you wind your way up the mountain. Next, you carefully drive over a narrow wooden bridge over a gorge. My guess is that there was once a drawbridge here. Then you park your car with your front bumper over a steep drop-off and take a very long walk up over slippery stones into the castle and the hotel. Schlepping bags would be horrible so, after you check in, a porter hauls them in a wagon attached to a small tractor. The porter was unavailable until 3:00 so we left the bags in the car and set off for lunch. We initially headed west away from the river but, finding nothing, we returned to town and again found nothing we liked. Eventually we took route 9 north to St. Goar and had lunch at Hotel-Restaurant Keutmann on a terrace overlooking the Rhine and the famous Lorelei.

We dressed for dinner only to find that our reservation had not been made. After some consternation, and a little persistence, we were given a nice table by a window. Dinner was great but Linda didn’t feel well afterward.

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photo by: novabelgica