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Paris of the east

Beirut Travel Blog › entry 2 of 20 › view all entries

My blog for the vacation I had in the Middle East. For this year I planned to do something totally different (not being a western country). I ended up "picking" Syria, Lebanon and Jordan for this. In this blog I'll tell my experiences, but also try to give some tips for future travelers.

Paris of the east

This journal entry is a draft and has not been published yet. Please check back later!

Tips, tricks and information about Lebanon

Although I spend only 3 days in Lebanon, I'll try to give some general tips about it as well.

Visa
The visa, like Syria, can be bought at the border. This costs 25.000 Lebanese Lira's, about 12 euros at moment of writing (for a stay up to 15 days). Besides some checks along the way, the visa and forms to be filled in can all be arranged at one desk, so it doesn't take much effort. When you stay 2 days (48 hours) you can get the visa for free.

Safety/Security
As is well known, the situation in Lebanon has always been on the edge of explosion. (So always stay on top of the local news!) There was a short lasting war with Israel in 2006 and in May 2008 there were several fights around the country, including in Beirut. As recent as spring 2009 there were some rockets fired from Lebanon into Israel.
These are the main reasons ministries of foreign affairs advice against traveling to Lebanon. After reading some news sources and talking to people living and traveling there, I decided to give it a go. Sources I used:
The Daily Star 
Naharnet
TravBuddy ofcourse: If you're not sure, find someone on here that's traveling the area according to the data in their profile.
In the end I found the situation rather laid back. In Beirut I experienced none of the checkpoints Biedjee talked about. Although there is armed police on every corner and signs of checkpoints are left, I noticed no problems whatsoever. As I said before, fellow travelers further on the road later on told me they didn't even have problems in the north of Lebanon.
The famous Holiday Inn


Traffic/Getting around
Like I said in the Syria entry, the traffic in Lebanon is utter chaos. I would discourage driving here on your own, even most of the roads outside the cities. Every signage on or along the road, including traffic lights, are pure guidance. If the light's red, this probably means there is traffic coming from another side, but if you don't see it or it isn't much traffic, you just drive along, merging with it or crossing through it.
The same goes for lanes (if there is any paint left showing the lanes). Even if your side has 2/3 lanes. If you can't drive ahead in your pace/overtake on your side, you just make a 4th lane on the other side (don't mind the upcoming traffic, just signal with your headlights for them to go aside) (If you overtake someone you always have to honk to make sure the other one known your doing just that)
I guess the main reason for the chaos is the lack of police intervention.
In Beirut I've seen police stationed at intersections a couple of times not even taking notice of cars drive through the red light. (With police cars think "new" Night Rider with blinded windows...)
It's easy to get around in the country is easy with the mini-buses. If you want to get somewhere just ask the hoste to give you some directions. Like in Syria these sometimes are others than the Lonely Planet. In Beirut there are enough taxis driving around willing to take you everywhere. (Another use for honking in your car; at tourists walking along and getting their attention for your taxi..)

The People/Communicating
The people you meet are generally nice and helpful. In a place like Baalbek you notice it's a bit more touristic with coins being offered and Hezbollah flags and shirts on sale everywhere (they can get a bit annoying).
Most people can speak English or French besides Arabic, since these are taught in school, although sometimes it can be a bit difficult to find someone that can speak English. (Like on the minibus, bringing you to far along the road...)

Paying/Getting money
In Beirut you can find several ATM's and most, if not all, dispense both US Dollars and Lebanese Lira's (or pounds as they're called as well). I guess this is a result of some of the major chains in town accepting dollars.

Eating/Food
The food is a bit the same as Syria with Swarma, Kabab and Falafel available everywhere. In Beirut you'll find a lot more western food than you'd expect. The major chains like KFC, McDonalds and Starbucks are all present, so you won't have problems finding western (fast-)food.
vulindlela says:
Nice pictures from one of my favorite places!
Posted on: Aug 31, 2009
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The famous Holiday Inn
The famous Holiday Inn
Inside the The Mohammad al-Amin Mo…
Inside the The Mohammad al-Amin
Rafik Hariri memorial next to the …
Rafik Hariri memorial next to th
Rebuilding in progress
Rebuilding in progress
Okay place
I stayed in the dormitory for a couple of nights. This is okay and includes an airco. You have to make sure to reconfirm your reservation, if there's no place they will turn you down. The price of $10 is actual, which seems a bit expensive since it doesn't include breakfast.

When traveling by bus with your backpack this is a good place, since it's a 5-minute walk from the Charles Helou bus-station. (up-hill however) Follow directions on the website, but the entrance isn't that clear. The reception is on the first floor, with an office downstairs in the building.

The dormitory is okay, with just enough space for your backpack. If you ask it's possible to use the computer in the reception for internet.

The shower looks clean, but it's a bit cramped. I couldn't stand there with my 1,90 meters. At least the water is hot.

The staff is good and helpful with questions and giving directions and advice.

If your staying during the week this is an okay place, but on Friday and Saturday nights the night-club downstairs in the basement of the building kicks into action, starting after mid-night and going on till dawn or later... The music can be heard easily and is a bit annoying.

This and the $10 per night are the main reasons for giving a "not recommended".
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