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Beautiful remains of medieval times

Ghent Travel Blog › entry 3 of 6 › view all entries

A trip to Ghent, which was in medieval times the second biggest town in Western Europe. And this all because I was interested in the religious everyday life in medieval times, so I got this novel from the library...
WorldEuropeBelgiumGhent

Beautiful remains of medieval times

Platform departure sign
We left home before 7.00 because we wanted to get the 7.54 international train at Amsterdam Central Station. Friday, early in the morning, in de midst of the Summer holiday time - not very busy on the road, so when we got at the station we had time to buy a big bag full of candy I forgot to do the day before.
The train has long compartments, which can be nice, but not when at Rotterdam two young women came in and settled in the seats next to us, with a musical taste which didn't fit ours, while they decided there was nothing better than that, and all people around them could "enjoy" the girl's cellphone MP3 function.
Maartje was about to get her own cellphone and let them give an example of really good music LOL, but I thought we better not.
Ghent's towers as seen from Michielsbridge
There were some older people sitting in front of us, and our musical taste is a bit on the heavy side, because we both like metal - Maartje in specific the power metal, f.e. bands like Disturbed - and I would not stir up the older people.
We were glad when we got at Antwerp where we need to change on the train either to Lille or Ostende. It turned out the one to Ostende because we arrived with a little delay, and missed the first one to Lille.
This was the first time I was at Antwerp Central Station, big station (ofcourse) - it has got 3 levels with tracks. We arrived on the lowest level and for the Ostende train we had to go to the top level. No big deal because the directions on the signs were clear, but I remembered the easy going in Central Europe where there were always uniformed people to help you around.
Graslei


We did leave the agglomeration of Antwerp and travelled to the west. Now, I always thought the part west of Antwerp was called West-Vlaanderen (Flanders West) but there I made my mistake. The area west of Antwerp is all Flanders, and that is split up in a western and eastern part. So, actually we were travelling west through Oost-Vlaanderen (Flanders East), where the town of Ghent is located, which is the capital of Flanders East.

We decided to go off the train at St. Pieters station, the biggest in Ghent, because I wanted to go to our hotel by taxi.
But when we got at the first station, Ghent Dampoort, we already could see the towers of churches and the Belfort.
At St. Pieters we got in our taxi, and the driver told us interesting things of the sites we were passing.
Korenlei
Okay, half of the time we could not understand what the man said, partly because of the Flemisch he spoke and partly because of the road pavement, in Belgium they still use cobblestones, but nevertheless I still learned something new.

We got at our hotel, het Sint Joris hof, or in French, le Cour St. Georges, at noon - where we were told we were too early, although I mailed them we would arrive by that time. We could not yet check-in, but we could leave our luggage at the reception desk; we were handed a city plan as well as some touristic information, so you could say we were sort of "thrown" into the old town, with the message not to return before 15.00 hours. Yes mother, no mother.

With the map in our hands we walked toward the river Leie (Lys),  where we hopped on one of the "bootjes van Gent", small open boats for a tour on the waters of the old town, the rivers Leie and Lieve, and by a connection canal to a small part of the river Schelde (Scheldt) as well.
Street near the St. Baafscathedral

The name Ghent is from the older Gond or Gand which means confluence of two streams, in this case the rives Leie and Schelde, although one may doubt about this meaning of the town's name. After the tour we explored the old town a bit more.
Halfway the afternoon we got to our hotel, and yes, now we were allowed to check in.
When we got to our room, we noticed some empty softdrink bottles, and a broken lampshade, so downstairs again to hand over the glassware and report the broken thing. The girl at the reception had the decency of being embarrased. It did not take long before she came to our room with a new lampshade which she quickly replaced.
Maartje turned on the tv set, and I dozed away a bit.

After an hour or so we were ready for town again, "een biertje happen" (having a beer) was on my program.
Former dominican convent

We found this great place at the Groentenmarkt, on the banks of the river Leie, a beerhouse on the waterside, but they played tricks with the name, and turned it into "Waterhuis aan de bierkant" (waterhouse on the beerside). Maartje did not want a beer, she decided she wanted a Martini on the Rocks, and lucky for her, they served that as well.
After awhile we got a bit hungry and ordered a light meal, which was prepared at the nextdoor restaurant "Chez Leontine", but to make it easy for the customer, it is all added to one bill.

I read about Ghent being illuminated at night time, so later that night we headed back into town, to walk around a bit until the lights were turned on. At dusk we sat down on the Graslei at "De Witte Leeuw" for a sweet and a drink (am I ever glad they serve "koffie verkeerd" in Belgium (coffee the wrong way)), the streetlights were already turned on, but not the little lights I expected.
Het groot vleeshuis (The Butcher's Hall) promotion center for East Flanders food and agriculture specialities
So I asked the waiter, and he told me they did not do that anymore, the restaurant used to be part of the illumination plan as well, with little lights as decoration on the entire terrace, but it was all gone... It's a pity.



yadilitta says:
I went to Ghent just by chance and really loved it. It wasn't part of my plans, but so glad I decided to stop here!
Posted on: Aug 05, 2009
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Platform departure sign
Platform departure sign
Ghents towers as seen from Michie…
Ghent's towers as seen from Mich
Graslei
Graslei
Korenlei
Korenlei
Street near the St. Baafscathedral
Street near the St. Baafscathedral
Former dominican convent
Former dominican convent
Het groot vleeshuis (The Butchers…
Het groot vleeshuis (The Butcher
Townhouses
Townhouses
Townhouse at the Graslei, on the b…
Townhouse at the Graslei, on the
River Leie near Grasbrug and Hooia…
River Leie near Grasbrug and Hoo
Overgrown townhouse as seen from t…
Overgrown townhouse as seen from
Entrance of St. Baafscathedral.
Entrance of St. Baafscathedral.
Detailed decoration on the entranc…
Detailed decoration on the entra
St Michielskerk, St. Michaels chur…
St Michielskerk, St. Michaels ch
My first Best Western
I googled for hotels in the old town center of Ghent, and came across several all in the same price range, all of them over the budget I had in mind, but at the Cour St. Georges the breakfast was included and because of the location I went for this one.

The reservation done by email, I mentioned in that mail our estimated time of arrival at noon, and the answer came that everything would be fine.

So, we arrived at noon, no-one at the reception, no bell to ask for attention, but after almost 5 minutes of waiting someone came to the desk. We told that lady our name and reservation, and the first thing the lady replied was that we were too early, the room would not be ready before 15.00 hours. OK, I can understand that, but I would have appreciated if she told us in a more polite way. She told us we could leave our luggage at the reception, quickly handed us over a city plan, pointed out where we were as well as the restaurant quarters, and we were on our way out again, and into town. Ah, well, that is what we came here for right?

After spending those hours in town we returned to the Cour St. Georges about 14.50, still 10 minutes early. Another girl was now at the reception desk, on my question if we could check in now or that we were too early again she replied she would do the check in, no problem.
We had to pay the bill in advance, she handed us over the keys, we took our luggage and we went upstairs to our room.
Nice room, but there were still empty softdrink bottles on the table, and we noticed a broken lampshade.... grrrrr!
The bed was a double bed, while we expected twin beds, but I was not sure that was in the reservation. (At home I checked my email and indeed the hotel had confirmed twin beds - did not want to check it in the hotel with their internet charge of 8 euro for 30 minutes).
I did not want to use the phone, instead I went down again, handed over the empty bottles, and mentioned the broken lampshade. The girl had the decency to be embarrased, and within moments she herself came to repair the lampshade.
Fast service, but it would not have been necessary if the room had been in order.

The old location of the Cour St. Georges was in a medieval building at the Botermarkt, but since it is part of the Best Western chain it is moved across the street and is now located in two old gentlemen's townhouses, which makes that the rooms are all different. Ours had a small corridor with our bedroom on one side and the bathroom on the other side of the corridor. Minor point was the high treshold of our bedroom, we had steps up and down.
But it looked nice and cozy as far as a hotelroom can be cozy.
There was a TV set on a desk, and some nice chairs and a small sidetable. A folder contained historical information on the old town of Ghent.
Two big windows on the streetside, looking towards the former location of the Cour St. Georges, and beyond we could see the tower of the Belfort.

As I mentioned earlier, the breakfast was included, and served from 8.00 to 11.30.
There was a nice variety of plain and sweet buns as well as a fresh loaf, dairy, fresh fruit (plain or as salad), jams, honey, cheese. There were also boiled and fried eggs, however the dishes of the fried eggs and bacon were almost empty when we got there, at 10.15.
The breakfast room was nicely decorated in art nouveau style, a sign indicating not to touch the vintage walls. These were really old walls, you could see unrepaired holes in it, a true pity for such nice decoration.

After breakfast we went back to our room to pack the last things of our stuff, while busy with it the cleaning lady entered, but left immediately seeing us still there. This happened another 2 times, before we were finally ready to leave.

As I arranged we could leave our luggage again at the reception desk until we would leave for the train later that afternoon. The man at the reception desk assured me all trains would also stop at Ghent Dampoort station, which is closer to the old town center.

Will I ever stay in the Cour St. Georges? I don't think so, even have doubts whether I want to stay in another hotel of the Best Western chain.
Art nouveau decoraton on the rad
Decorated walls in the breakfast
View from our room at the old Co
Coats of arms at the old Cour St
Boattrip on the Ghent rivers
All along the banks of the river Leie in the old town center of Ghent you notice shipping companies, offering guided boattrips.
The 50 minute tour is in open boats, but a rack with a fair number of umbrella's is on board each ship.

We walked around looking for a place to sit down to eat our lunch baquettes, when at the Vleeshuisbrug a man asked us if we were interested in a boattrip. The man was an employee of "Rederij De Gentenaer", he told us he planned to leave within 5 minutes, and that we were allowed to eat our baquettes on board :)
The trip was on our program, and because we arrived too early for our hotel we decided it would be a very good idea to have that trip right now.
The captain is also the guide, before departure he checks what languages the people aboard speak. The captain can speak at least flemish (dutch), english, german, french, and most likely some other languages as spanish or italian.
The tour takes you on the river Leie to the connecting canal to the river Schelde, where he turns left, (otherwise you would sail to France), then back to the Leie where at the confluence you go left to sail the Lieve, a canal which was digged between 1251 and 1269 as a connection between Ghent and the Northsea. From the Lieve you got a good view on the Gravensteen, the Ghent castle, the reason why I wanted this trip.
Then back again on the Leie, until the St. Georges lock, which you don't pass, because a permit is required, from there on the river follows its way to the Netherlands.

The information of the guide is extensive, and the boat doesn't sail before he finished his story about the sight you are at that moment.

And... because we had such nice sunny weather we did not need the umbrella's :)

Grasbrug
River Schelde towards France
At the Lieve
The wooden house, at the Lieve
Gravensteen as seen from the Lieve
Part of the riverbanks poem
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