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CROIX-ROUSSE PLATEAU,A VILLAGE IN THE TOWN!

Lyon Travel Blog

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Le Gros Caillou (literally the huge stone)on the Esplanade on the eastern side of the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse is the symbol of the silkworker district.

                                         The Croix -Rousse plateau on the top of the hill(around 240 m high) is like a VILLAGE in Lyon and its people often independant (see La République des Canuts association) say currently, when they are heading down to the Presqu'île, that they go down to Lyon

                                        Once a working class district living in unique architecture,the CANUTS' (silk workers)apartments with oak-beamed ceilings and windows up to 4 meters high, often with mezzanines for family life,it is now a residential area with quaint narrow streets,daily open-air market,authentic bistrots,not fancy restaurants,squares for bowl players "boules lyonnaises",town crier,République des Canuts grape harvest in September.

THE EXCEPTION WHICH PROVES THE RULE! Usually most of the French dogs decorate all the pavements with their droppings,there some use this unique architecture!
... this VILLAGE AMBIENCE attracts more and more upper-middle-classes,arty and "bobos"(it's now one of the most expensive area in Lyon) after the important restoration and renovation works in the 90's.

                                         The plateau features 2 mains streets: the Croix-Rousse boulevard housing the FALL "CHESTNUT" FAIR (mid-October to mid-November) and the shopping street,la Grande Rue de la Croix- Rousse.The centre of the "village" is at the crossing of these 2 axis:the Croix- Rousse square (METRO STATION CROIX-ROUSSE) close to the new esplanade Le Gros Caillou  which was created during the construction of a new underground carpark Le Gros Caillou (very useful on the weekdays and on Friday,Saturday evenings,fees O,55 euro for 20 minutes).

Le Mur des Canuts,an amazing trompe-l'oeil.One can see on the top of the left side black tarpaulins fixed to avoid water seepages due to cracks in the building.

                                         We revisited my FAV DISTRICT (one of the most densely populated in Europe) in a sunny afternoon enjoying the recent renovation of the eastern end of the Boulevard and the views from the GROS CAILLOU (the symbol of the Croix-Rousse district)  on the city and a bit further to the Alps..After a drink,we head up to the west on the boulevard  where almost  a one kilometer MARKET is held every morning (except Mondays)  and turning  right strolled the Boulevard des Canuts for enjoying the amazing mural painting of LE MUR DES CANUTS again,work of the CITE DE LA CREATION.

playground below the Gros Caillou and canuts(silkworkers) buildings with high ceilings and high windows allowing the use of Jacquard looms

                                        We had a quick rest in the lovely but a bit odd CLOS CARRET PARK,a 3300 sqm garden open in 2002 in place of dilapidated buildings,restaurant with its bowl court (Carret was a famous bowl player) and a carpark.

                                        Agathe Argot,a lighting designer and the artist Jean-François Gavoty transformed this rectangular area in the heart of Croix-Rousse plateau demonstrating respect for its former atmosphere and identity.

Clos Carret park entrance,a quiet and odd area in the heart of the district

                                        After a glance and a shot to the MAISON DES CANUTS 10 rue d'Ivry....

a living museum about Lyon silk industry and a place where the Jacquard's looms are in use.Open from Tuesday to Saturdays (closed on bankholidays) 10am to 6pm,commented visits at 11am and 3.30pm,entry fee:6 euro,3 for students and free under 12.Shop

more info on http://www.maisondescanuts.com

                                     .

La Maison des Canuts,a living silk museum and a reliable silk shop
.......it was time for us to move in the direction of the Sâone river slopes...

 

spocklogic says:
It astounds me sometimes why travel blogs like these are NOT featured. This is definitely feature worthy!
Posted on: Aug 12, 2011
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Le Gros Caillou (literally the hug…
Le Gros Caillou (literally the hu…
THE EXCEPTION WHICH PROVES THE RUL…
THE EXCEPTION WHICH PROVES THE RU…
Le Mur des Canuts,an amazing tromp…
Le Mur des Canuts,an amazing trom…
playground below the Gros Caillou …
playground below the Gros Caillou…
Clos Carret park entrance,a quiet …
Clos Carret park entrance,a quiet…
La Maison des Canuts,a living silk…
La Maison des Canuts,a living sil…
view from the Esplanade:can you se…
view from the Esplanade:can you s…
view from the Esplanade and smokin…
view from the Esplanade and smoki…
Le Gros Caillou café and the begi…
Le Gros Caillou café and the beg…
the end of Croix Rousse Boulevard …
the end of Croix Rousse Boulevard…
Le Gros Caillou sells good icecrea…
Le Gros Caillou sells good icecre…
pistachio and salted butter caramel
pistachio and salted butter caramel
below the Gros Caillou
below the Gros Caillou
playground and school
playground and school
the quiet Boulevard de la Croix-Ro…
the quiet Boulevard de la Croix-R…
a famous café Le Chanteclerc
a famous café Le Chanteclerc
Le Chanteclerc a place for friends
Le Chanteclerc a place for friends
the district town hall registered …
the district town hall registered…
my dream house on the Boulevard de…
my dream house on the Boulevard d…
Square de la Croix Rousse
Square de la Croix Rousse
Joseph Marie Jacquard invented in …
Joseph Marie Jacquard invented in…
This street urinal was very well d…
This street urinal was very well …
REGAL GLACES DONT GO THERE!!!!exp…
REGAL GLACES DON'T GO THERE!!!!ex…
a bit deceived by her pistachio ic…
a bit deceived by her pistachio i…
hetero?cops everywhere,nowhere jus…
hetero?cops everywhere,nowhere ju…
Christian friendsoffice
Christian friends'office
spring
spring
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no comment
The boulevard des Canuts leads to …
The boulevard des Canuts leads to…
see my review below
see my review below
Le Mur des Canuts with its tarpaul…
Le Mur des Canuts with its tarpau…
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2010 new character
2010 new character
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because of this passage built by t…
because of this passage built by …
why these pavements????
why these pavements????
in Clos Carret Park
in Clos Carret Park
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art!
art!
more art!
more art!
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this little house
this little house
the main shopping street:Grande Ru…
the main shopping street:Grande R…
nice couple
nice couple
guess it!
guess it!
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no comment
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no comment
on the side of the Square de la Cr…
on the side of the Square de la C…
closer
closer
plafond à la française,oak-beame…
plafond à la française,oak-beam…
map of the Maison des Canuts
map of the Maison des Canuts
Lyon Sights & Attractions review
AMAZING MURAL PAINTING
The Mur des Canuts is located at the corner of boulevard des Canuts and Rochereau street on the Croix-Rousse hill,the working hill counterpart of Four… read entire review
Lyon
photo by: spocklogic