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Meeting Friends in Venice

Venice Travel Blog › entry 21 of 27 › view all entries

This is was a two-week trip that my wife, Linda, and I took with our friends Earl & Helen. We flew from JFK to Rome where we spent a few days before renting a car and driving to our villa in the small village of Pozzuollo, Umbria. After a week, we drove to the Venice airport where we dropped the car, took a water taxi to our hotel and spent a few days there before heading back to JFK. I owe a special "Thank you" to our friends Vittorio and Patrizia for their help and hospitality!
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Meeting Friends in Venice

Gabrielle ann Ivana

Moving day already! The rules of engagement required us to be out by 10:00 so Earl set his alarm and had us up at 7:30. By shortly after 8:00 we were dressed and pretty much packed. We finished up the bread and cheese for breakfast and had the car packed and were ready to go by about 9:45. I walked across to the clothing store and told Gabrielle we were ready for his inspection of the house. We got back the security deposit with no questions and he and Ivana came over to wish all of us good-bye. We were on the road shortly after 10:00 with me driving and Earl navigating. The weather was intermittent rain. By the time we got to Arezzo the rain pretty much stopped but it remained cloudy until we neared Venice. Earl took over driving at a rest stop between Bologna and Venice so I could navigate.

After getting gas, we dropped the car at the Venice airport and walked what seemed like miles to the water taxi but were quickly on our way for the high-speed trip to Venice itself. What a treat it was to fly across the bay, along the Grand Canal and then wander through the narrower side canals, eventually stopping at a set of steps just a few meters from a small, virtually unmarked gate that was the entrance to our hotel, Oltre di Giardino. We arrived at about 2:30 and were greeted by Elena, a charming young lady who showed us to our mini suites on the second (third to Americans) floor. This former house has only 6 guest rooms and is absolutely delightful. I didn't realize it until I started preparing this web page but it was actually the home of Alma Mahler, wife of the famous composer! The others wanted to rest but I could not wait to have a look around so I wandered off alone, hoping I’d be able to find myself back through the maze of tiny streets and canals.
Vittorio and Patrizia
Actually, it was not as difficult to find my way back as I feared. Eventually I sought out Linda and together we went for a slice off pizza and some ice cream.

After chilling for an hour or two, we showered and dressed for dinner with our very dear friends, Vittorio and Patrizia who had traveled from their home in Milan just to be with us. As previously arranged, they met the four of us in the hotel at 7:30. Dinner was at Harry’s Bar near Piazza St. Marco. To get there, we took the ferry or Vaporetto but to get to the Vaporetto stop, we had a nice walk together through the narrow streets with narrative by Vittorio. At Piazza St. Marco, we strolled first through this imposing square, one of the most famous and beautiful in the world, then circled back around to Harry’s which, interestingly enough, originated in Venice.

St. Mark's Basilica
Lin and I both started with tagliatelle with a white sauce and ham and, for the main course had veal picatta. Both were absolutely wonderful and Vittorio was, as always, a gracious and engaging host. Patrizia put in a special effort since she speaks little English but does understand it. In spite of this, she was an excellent hostess and we really appreciated the sacrifice she made to have dinner with us. While all of us enjoyed ourselves immensely, it was extra special for me as Vittorio and I have been friends for many years and, though our business relationship has changed, our friendship has not. After dinner, we took the vaporetto back to the dock at San Tomá and walked to the hotel. Unfortunately, I didn’t sleep well but I think it was due to the excitement; what a great time we had!

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Gabrielle ann Ivana
Gabrielle ann Ivana
Vittorio and Patrizia
Vittorio and Patrizia
St. Marks Basilica
St. Mark's Basilica
Leaving Venice Airport
Leaving Venice Airport
Water taxi to Venice
Water taxi to Venice
Il vaporetto
Il vaporetto
Tiny, secluded, perfect!
I'd never have found this had it not been for my friend, Vittorio. We took a water taxi from the airport and when he pulled up, I thought he'd either made a mistake or was trying to rip us off as there was nothing to hint that we were in front of the hotel. When the driver pointed it out, though, we saw the simple green door set in an unremarkanle wall. The only sign was a tiny one set in the concreet over the doorbell. As we passed through that door, though, we entered another world. As we entered the small garden, we were greeted by the sweet smell of honeysuckle. Entering the hotel itself, we felt as we were entering a private home and indeed we were in a sense. This former house has only 6 guest rooms and is absolutely delightful. I learned later than this was actually the home of Alma Mahler, wife of Gustav Mahler, the famous composer! This former house has only 6 guest rooms and is absolutely delightful. The rooms are not even numbered. Each one is very different and they are denoted only by color. Our freinds and we occupied the two suites on the top floor and they were just about perfect. Venice can feel a bit crowded and hectic but this hotel was the perfect sanctuary. It's far enough from the tourist attractions to give one the feeling for the true Venice while being close enough when it's time to visit the must-sees.

BTW, I just looked at where this website put the hotel on the map. It's not correct!
Who'd believe this is a hotel en
That's the only sign!
From our sitting room window
From our bedroom window
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