Crossing borders
The taxi
driver took me to the border but I would have to walk across it. I figure that
should be too much of problem to cross the border change money and catch a bus.
It goes pretty smoothly on the Albanian side of the border I just walk up to the
Albanian border buildings which look like some sort of temporary sheds you
would find on a construction side. But they have computer and it only take a
few minutes to get across the border.
Then I have
to walk through the no man’s land between the Albanian and the Macedonian
border post. It is a bit of a bit of a walk but it is doable. I get to the
Macedonian side of the border and I walk up to the border building - it looks a
lot more like a permanent construction on this side of the border.
The border
crossing went smoothly but after the border things are not really what I
expected. I wanted a nice little exchange booth where I could exchange some
Euros into Macedonian money. But there is no where I can change money. I am
also looking for a bus station to get a ride to Ohrid - but there is no bus
station anywhere in sight - not that I would actually have the money to pay for
a bus ticket - given there were no exchange booth.
I am
considering the options I could stand hanging around hopping for something to
happen - or I could start walking.
I walk down
the road it is actually a nice road with some cool sights to look at on the way
- I would probably enjoy it if knew when the walking would end. I keep walking
and there is no bus stop or exchange booth in sight. After a couple of
kilometers I get to a small monastery. I figure I will talk a bit of a rest and
take a look at this place - it is right next to the road so why not. I go in
and there is a man present at the place - Jovan named of Saint John. He is a
volunteer doing a bit of work at the monastery before the summer arrives. It is
a nice little place with a stream running past it during the summer but for now
there is no water in the stream. I talk a bit with Jovan and he lets me in to
the little church which is at the monastery there are some nicely renovated
frescoes inside but I am not allowed to take pictures. I stay a bit and have a
bit of a chat with Jovan who offers me a bit of the monastery’s rakki.
After a
while it is time for me to walk along I go down towards a bigger monastery call
the Sveti Naum monastery and is one of the most famous places in all of
Macedonia.
It turns
out this is actually a long series of accidental meetings. There are five
tourists in all - the four of them where on a trip in a taxi around all of Lake
Orhird and they had just met the day before in the bus from Skopje. The last of
the group was Martin who came from the same small village in Switzerland as one
of the passengers in the taxi. He had actually walked across the border the
same way as me a couple of hours earlier and had had the exact same problems as
me - not being able to exchange money or finding some sort of transportation.
But he had been able to change money with his old friends from Switzerland and
hence he had some Macedonian cash. We talked for a bit and agree to drive to
Orhird together in a taxi and he borrows me a bit of money so I could get into
the church at the Sveti Naum monastery before we would drive to city.
I go in and
have a look around the monastery. It is some nice buildings down at the
waterfront of the lake. And you could actually stay there for the night if you
would want to. But I don’t find the monastery super interesting compared to
other monasteries. Though the frescoes in the church is sort of interesting.
For me the main the monastery is not really the most fascinating part of this
place. I find the huge number of peacock running around the monasteries grounds
a lot more interesting to look at - though they are really loud. I think this
could be a bit of a problem in case you would like to spend the night at the
monastery. I have a look around for a bit but this is not a place I would like
to spend a huge amount of time - so instead I head out to meet up with Martin
so we could get to Ohrid.
The monastery is originally built around year 900 by Saint Naum who is also buried here. The buildings at the monastery are mainly concentrated around a square courtyard with a little church inside. The church got some nice frescoes and is the only place where you will need to pay admission. There is a hotel at the premises hence you can spend the night if you would want to. I guess you should not expect too much in the night life department if you do stay for the night.
You will probably go to see the monastery to see the church and the buildings of the monastery itself. But what makes this place unique is not really either of those two things. It is the view of the mountains and the lake. And the huge number of peacocks which are walking around the place and making a lot of noise. The noise from the peacocks could be a problem for the guest at the hotel if they are not really heavy sleepers - peacocks can make some serious noise.
You don’t really need to spend the night to see the place since it is pretty small and you can get around all of it in ½-1 hour. But some might want to stay for the experience of staying at a famous monastery with some cool scenery.
