Part 06: Across the Sahara and back again

 By nathanphil

The Route

– Starting Point – Last Point – Current Point – Round Trip
Path Traveled
Not Yet Traveled

The Summary

Six months into my new Morocco life, I feel I’ve just got to take a break and try something different. I head south WAY south—overland all the way across the Sahara desert through Mauritania, Senegal and Gambia to discover the joys and perils of playing street music in sub-Saharan Africa. Then I return to Morocco to discover another 100+ towns…

1,082 photos 77,314 words 12 comments Jump to updated entryJump to the most recently updated entry
DateLocationEntries
January 1st, 2009 Tan-Tan, Morocco0246. The Gate of the Sahara (Morocco 094--new) | 12 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
January 1st, 2009 Laayoune, Morocco0247. The Saharan Capital (Mor 095--Revisit) | 6 Photos
Updated: February 13th, 2009
January 2nd, 2009 Nouakchott, Mauritania0248. A 20 hour trip... (Mauritania 01--revisit) | 15 Photos
Updated: February 12th, 2009
January 3rd, 2009 Rosso, Senegal0249. Crossing into the Subsahara (Senegal 01--revisit) | 9 Photos
Updated: February 13th, 2009
January 3rd, 2009 Saint-Louis, Senegal0250. Old Colonial Capital (Sgl 02--revisit) | 31 Photos
Updated: February 13th, 2009
January 4th, 2009 Hydrobase, Senegal0251. Down the Penninsula (Sgl 03--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: March 3rd, 2009
January 4th, 2009 Thies, Senegal0252. Unplanned Couchsurfing in Thies (Sgl 04--revisit) | 15 Photos
Updated: March 17th, 2009
January 5th, 2009 Kaolack, Senegal0253. Chased by the Glue Sniffing Zombies (Sgl 05--revisit) | 11 Photos
Updated: March 17th, 2009
January 6th, 2009 Karang, Senegal0254. Senegal bordertown (Sgl 06--new) | 7 Photos
Updated: March 17th, 2009
January 6th, 2009 Barra, Gambia0255. Singing for the Coconut Harvesters (Gambia 01--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: March 17th, 2009
January 6th, 2009 Banjul, Gambia0256. The Unpretentious Gambian Capital (Gam 02--revisit) | 8 Photos
Updated: March 17th, 2009
January 7th, 2009 Serekunda, Gambia0257. Sprawling Serakunda (Gam 03--new) | 5 Photos
Updated: March 17th, 2009
January 7th, 2009 Lamin town, Gambia0258. My mini-safari (Gam 04--new) | 8 Photos
Updated: March 17th, 2009
January 7th, 2009 Brikama, Gambia0259. A Hike Through Rural Gambia (Gam 05--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: March 19th, 2009
January 8th, 2009 Amdalaye, Gambia0260. Gambia Border Town (Gam 06--new) | 5 Photos
Updated: March 19th, 2009
January 9th, 2009 Rosso, Mauritania0261. No Parkbenches in Mauritania (Maur 02--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: March 19th, 2009
January 9th, 2009 Nouadhibou, Mauritania0262. Crossing the Sahara in Style (Maur 03--revisit) | 8 Photos
Updated: March 19th, 2009
January 10th, 2009 Dakhla, Morocco0263. The Beautiful Dakhla Bay (Mor 096--revisit) | 2 Photos
Updated: March 19th, 2009
January 13th, 2009 Oulad Ghadban, Morocco0264. Subtour 2: Revisiting the Jadida coast (Mor 097--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: March 20th, 2009
January 13th, 2009 Sidi Smail, Morocco0265. A magnificent sunset (Mor 098--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: March 20th, 2009
January 13th, 2009 Safi, Morocco0266. One of the best Medinas in Morocco (Mor 099--revisit) | 37 Photos
Updated: March 20th, 2009
January 14th, 2009 Tlata-Sidi-Bouguedra, Morocco0267. The Bouguedra Football Team (Mor 100--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: March 20th, 2009
January 14th, 2009 Jemaa-Shaim, Morocco0268. Plenty of Park benches in Jemaa Shaim (Mor 101--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: March 20th, 2009
January 15th, 2009 Sooq Khemis, Morocco0269. Thursday Market (Mor 102--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: April 20th, 2009
January 15th, 2009 Chemaia, Morocco0270. Hangin' out at the pool hall (Mor 103--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: April 20th, 2009
January 15th, 2009 Youssoufia, Morocco0271. Youssefia, A Company Town (Mor 104--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: April 20th, 2009
January 15th, 2009 Sidi Bennour, Morocco0272. Finishing the Doukkala Region (Mor 105--new) | 1 Photo
Updated: April 20th, 2009
January 20th, 2009 Sidi-Yahya-du-Rharb, Morocco0273. Subtour 3:The Sidi Kacem Highway (Mor 106--new) | 1 Photo
Updated: April 20th, 2009
January 20th, 2009 Sidi Slimane, Morocco0274. "Dangerous" Sidi Slimane (Mor 107--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: April 20th, 2009
January 21st, 2009 Sidi Qacem, Morocco0275. The Emerald Hills of Sidi Kacem (Mor 108--new) | 11 Photos
Updated: April 20th, 2009
January 22nd, 2009 Temna, Morocco0276. Discovery and Disaster (Mor 109--new) | 9 Photos
Updated: April 20th, 2009
January 22nd, 2009 Ezzhiliga, Morocco0277. Riding with the Jolly Ezzhiliga Market Vendors (Mor 110--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: April 27th, 2009
January 26th, 2009 Boujad, Morocco0278. Subtour 4: In Search of African Snow (Mor 111--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: April 27th, 2009
January 26th, 2009 Kasba Tadla, Morocco0279. Castle, Lake, Mountains (Mor 112--new) | 14 Photos
Updated: April 27th, 2009
January 27th, 2009 Zaouia Cheikh, Morocco0280. Mountain Town (Mor 113--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: April 27th, 2009
January 27th, 2009 Khenifra, Morocco0281. Not quite | 6 Photos
Updated: April 27th, 2009
January 28th, 2009 Mrirt, Morocco0282. A Windswept Mountain Town (Mor 115--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: April 27th, 2009
January 28th, 2009 El Hammam, Morocco0283. End of the Road Village (Mor 116--new) | 9 Photos
Updated: April 27th, 2009
January 28th, 2009 Timahdit, Morocco0284. Real, live Snow Monkeys (Mor 117--new) | 10 Photos
Updated: April 27th, 2009
January 29th, 2009 Almis du Guigou, Morocco0285. The cops in Guigou (Mor 118--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: April 28th, 2009
January 29th, 2009 Boulemane, Morocco0286. Up into the Mountains (Mor 119--new) | 18 Photos
Updated: April 28th, 2009
January 29th, 2009 Sefrou, Morocco0287. The Sefrou Medina (Mor 120--new) | 7 Photos
Updated: April 28th, 2009
February 3rd, 2009 Taghazout, Morocco0288. Subtour 5: Short revisit to the Souss Region (Mor 121--revisit) | 3 Photos
Updated: April 28th, 2009
February 3rd, 2009 Tamaraght, Morocco0289.The Hike to Tamaraght (Mor 122--revisit) | 5 Photos
Updated: April 28th, 2009
February 3rd, 2009 Tamri, Morocco0290. Banana Village (Mor 123--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: April 28th, 2009
February 4th, 2009 Had-Belfa, Morocco0291. The Tiznit Highway (Mor 124--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: April 28th, 2009
February 4th, 2009 Sidi Bibi, Morocco0292. A town named "Saint Turkey" (Mor 125--revisit) | 3 Photos
Updated: April 30th, 2009
February 5th, 2009 Ait-Baha, Morocco0293. Downpour in the Souss Hills (Mor 126--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: April 30th, 2009
April 1st, 2009 Zeida, Morocco0294. Subtour 6: The Snow and Sand Tour (Mor 127--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: May 2nd, 2009
April 1st, 2009 Itzer, Morocco0295. Another cool little discovery (Mor 128--new) | 12 Photos
Updated: May 2nd, 2009
April 1st, 2009 Midelt, Morocco0296. The Wild Kids of Midelt (Mor 129--new) | 19 Photos
Updated: May 2nd, 2009
April 2nd, 2009 Aslim, Morocco0297. The Mountain Village tour (Mor 130--new) | 11 Photos
Updated: May 2nd, 2009
April 2nd, 2009 Flilou, Morocco0298. The Village and the Gorge (Mor 131--new) | 12 Photos
Updated: May 2nd, 2009
April 2nd, 2009 Ait Serruchen, Morocco0299. Finally, Ait Serruchen (Mor 132--new) | 13 Photos
Updated: May 4th, 2009
April 3rd, 2009 Rich, Morocco0300. The Musicians of Rich (Mor 133--new) | 10 Photos
Updated: May 4th, 2009
April 3rd, 2009 Er Rachidia, Morocco0301. Capital of the East (Mor 134--revisit) | 13 Photos
Updated: May 4th, 2009
April 4th, 2009 Erfoud, Morocco0302. The Amazing Tunnel Cities of Erfoud (Mor 135--new) | 26 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 5th, 2009 Maadid, Morocco0303. Exploring the Vast Oasis (Mor 136--new) | 10 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 5th, 2009 Merzouga, Morocco0304. Morocco's Famous Sandsea (Mor 137--new) | 18 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 6th, 2009 Ksar Abdelaziz, Morocco0305. More Mud Castles (Mor 138--new) | 11 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 6th, 2009 Ben Mehdi, Morocco0306. ...Still another Castle... (Mor 139 new) | 7 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 6th, 2009 Rissani, Morocco0307. Castle Overload... (Mor 140--new) | 15 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 7th, 2009 Aoufous, Morocco0308. Hiking the Aoufous Canyon (Mor 141--new) | 10 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 7th, 2009 El Gara, Morocco0309. A small detour (Mor 142--new) | 11 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 7th, 2009 Ksar Jdid, Morocco0310. The No Store Town (Mor 143--new) | 10 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 7th, 2009 Walid Chekker, Morocco0311. End of the Aoufous tour (Mor 144--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 8th, 2009 Goulmima, Morocco0312. One Last Castle (Mor 145--new) | 10 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
April 8th, 2009 Telouine, Morocco0313. A rather peculiar ending (Mor 146--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: May 6th, 2009
May 20th, 2009 Tamanar, MoroccoSubtour 7: 314. Feeling Safe in the South (Mor 147--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 20th, 2009 Idrawin, Morocco315 Berber Village, Nine Years Later (Mor 148--Revisit) | 17 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 20th, 2009 Smimou, Morocco316. Memorable pit stop town (Mor 149--revisit) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 20th, 2009 Essaouira, Morocco317. Back in Bewitching Essaouira (Mor 150--revisit) | 24 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 21st, 2009 Ounara, Morocco318. Boring Ounara (Mor 151--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 21st, 2009 Tleta Henchen, Morocco319. Another Moussem town (Mor 152--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 21st, 2009 Si Mokhtar, Morocco320. Morocco's Poorest City (Mor 153--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 21st, 2009 Chichaoua, Morocco321. Bus Stop Town (Mor 154--new) | 1 Photo
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 26th, 2009 Morhane, MoroccoSubtour 8: 322. The Shabbiest Village in Morocco (Mor 155--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 26th, 2009 Sidi Allal Tazi, Morocco323. The Bridge (Mor 156--new) | 1 Photo
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 26th, 2009 Moulay Bou Selham, Morocco324. Morocco's Most Beautiful Lagoon (Mor 157--new) | 9 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 26th, 2009 Souk el Arba, Morocco325. A City Called Wednesday Market (Mor 158--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 19th, 2009
May 27th, 2009 Lalla Mimona, Morocco326. Singing for the Potato Harvesters (Mor 159--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: July 20th, 2009
May 27th, 2009 Arbaoua, Morocco327. A Middle Class Moroccan Town (Mor 160--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: July 20th, 2009
May 27th, 2009 Ouazzane, Morocco0328. A Beautiful Mountaintop City (Mor 161--new) | 7 Photos
Updated: July 20th, 2009
May 28th, 2009 Mechra Belqsiri, Morocco0329. Colonial Ghost Town (Mor 162--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
May 28th, 2009 Mehdi Plage, Morocco0331. A Fairy Tale Ending (164--new) | 12 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
June 2nd, 2009 Chefchaouene, MoroccoSubtour 9: Morocco/Ceuta 0332. Dreamlike Chefchaouan (165--new) | 27 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
June 2nd, 2009 Bab Berred, Morocco0333. Fern Forest (Mor 166--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
June 2nd, 2009 Bab Taza, Morocco0334. Scattered Town (Mor 167--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
June 3rd, 2009 Fnideq, Morocco0335. Border Town (Mor 168--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
June 3rd, 2009 Ceuta, Spain0336. A few hours in Spain (Mor 169--REVISIT) | 18 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
June 3rd, 2009 M'dik, Morocco0337. Back in Morocco (Mor 170--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
June 3rd, 2009 Tetouan, Morocco0338. Beautiful Tetouan (Mor 171--REVISIT) | 18 Photos
Updated: July 21st, 2009
June 4th, 2009 Martil, Morocco0339. An UNbeach Town (Mor 172--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: July 22nd, 2009
June 4th, 2009 Smir Restinga, Morocco0340. A Hidden Enclave of Luxury (Mor 173--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: July 22nd, 2009
June 4th, 2009 Ben Younes, Morocco0341. The Best Beach in Morocco (Mor 174--new) | 13 Photos
Updated: July 22nd, 2009
June 4th, 2009 Ksar Sghir, Morocco0342. Little Castle (Mor 175--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: July 22nd, 2009
June 8th, 2009 Guisser, MoroccoSubtour 10: The Middle Atlas 0343. The Boring Plains (Mor 176--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 22nd, 2009
June 8th, 2009 El Brouj, Morocco0344. Just another Plains town... (Mor 177--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 22nd, 2009
June 8th, 2009 Kelaa Sraghna, Morocco0345. Tongue Twister City (Mor 178--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: July 22nd, 2009
June 9th, 2009 Attaouia, Morocco0346. A City Built Yesterday (Mor 177--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 23rd, 2009
June 9th, 2009 Tamelelt, Morocco0345. Pleasant little village (Mor 179--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: July 23rd, 2009
June 9th, 2009 Demnate, Morocco0347. Up into the Hills (Mor 178--new) | 11 Photos
Updated: July 23rd, 2009
June 9th, 2009 Imin Ifni, Morocco0348. The Natural Bridge (Mor 179--new) | 23 Photos
Updated: July 23rd, 2009
June 10th, 2009 Taghela, Morocco0349. Having tea with the Village Chief (Mor 180--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: July 24th, 2009
June 10th, 2009 Ouzoud, Morocco0350. Morocco's Amazing Waterfall (Mor 181--new) | 23 Photos
Updated: July 24th, 2009
June 10th, 2009 Azilal, Morocco0351. Overnight in Azilal (Mor 182--new) | 5 Photos
Updated: July 24th, 2009
June 11th, 2009 Bin El Ouidane, Morocco0352. A REAL river in Morocco... (183--new) | 10 Photos
Updated: July 24th, 2009
June 11th, 2009 Ouaouizarht, Morocco0354. The afterclimax (Mor 185--new) | 9 Photos
Updated: July 24th, 2009
June 16th, 2009 Tahannout, MoroccoSubtour 11: The High Atlas 0354. Donkey Parking Lot (Mor 186--new) | 4 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 16th, 2009 Azrou Tahanout, Morocco0355. Hiking up the Mountains (Mor 187--new) | 8 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 16th, 2009 Asni, Morocco0356. Gateway to Toubkal (Mor 188--new) | 11 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 16th, 2009 Moulay Brahim Atlas, Morocco0357. A Moroccan Shangri La (Mor 189--new) | 21 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 17th, 2009 Ijjoukak, Morocco0358. Morocco's Highway to Hell (Mor 190--new) | 19 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 17th, 2009 Talaat n' Yakoub, Morocco0359. The Princess and the Castle (Mor 191--new) | 20 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 17th, 2009 Do'ghuch, Morocco0360. Spending the Night in Do'ghuch (Mor 192--new | 5 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 18th, 2009 Lalla Takerkoust, Morocco0361. The Lake and the Mountains (Mor 193--new) | 7 Photos
Updated: November 10th, 2009
June 18th, 2009 Amizmiz, Morocco0362 Dead End (Mor 194—new)
Updated: November 10th, 2009
June 20th, 2009 Eureka, MoroccoSubtour 12: Up The Ourika Valley 0363. Ourika Proper (Mor 195--new) | 7 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 20th, 2009 Oulmes Ourika, Morocco0364. Up the Beautiful Ourika Canyon (Mor 196--new)
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 20th, 2009 Tazitounte, Morocco0365. Camels and Waterfalls (Mor 197--new) | 9 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 20th, 2009 Imin Taddert, Morocco0366 The Village across the Wire Bridge (Mor 198--new) | 14 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 20th, 2009 Setti Fatma, Morocco0367. Waterfall Village (Mor 199--new) | 26 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 21st, 2009 Irhef, Morocco0368. Mountainside Village (Mor 200--new) | 7 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 21st, 2009 Asni Ourika, Morocco0369. View from the Mountaintop (Mor 201--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 21st, 2009 Aghbalou, Morocco0370. Tunnel Village (Mor 202--new | 11 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 21st, 2009 Azghine, Morocco0371. End of the Ourika Trail (Mor 203--new) | 5 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 21st, 2009 Telbenin, Morocco0372. Stuck at a Gas Station (Mor 204--new) | 2 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 21st, 2009 Ait Ourir, Morocco0373 Marrakech Suburb (Mor 205--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 22nd, 2009 Taferiate, Morocco0374. Taferiate or Bust (Mor 206--new) | 6 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009
June 22nd, 2009 Ghirs, Morocco0375. Conclusion of 08-09 Tours (Mor 207--new) | 3 Photos
Updated: July 25th, 2009