0332. Dreamlike Chefchaouan (165--new)

Chefchaouene Travel Blog

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Episode 09: Chefchaoan Region

A few days after getting back from my 3 day North Morocco tour, I turn right around to do another North Morocco tour—picking up exactly where I had turned around last time.


It’s the next town after Ouazzane—and probably the town that Moroccans have insisted that I visit more than any other… So, yeah, I’ve got pretty big expectations about Chefchaouan.

I actually take the roundabout way, which I trust will be faster—take the overnight bus from Casa to Tetouan and then catch a bus south to Chefchaouan at 5:30 in the morning.  It’s a chilly, windy morning as I climb on the bus along with rugged looking Riffiens…

The bus winds up through the mountains into the thick fog a bit until we reach what looks like a small, modern-looking town.

  None of the traditional charm people had promised me—but I’m not giving up yet.

I get off, walk through the fog to a little plaza that has a distinctly European feel… past a couple more plazas and Spanish style cafes… all the way to the other end of town... There I found a beautiful little stream with a backdrop of jagged cliffs topped off with thick mist…

I’m starting to discover the Chefchaouan charm.

I find a path that follows the stream… a little bit dirty in places—but still preserves its pure mountain charm.  And then, on the other side, I see Old Chefchaouan.

Chefchaouan does not disappoint.  It’s true, not all the houses are the clean, mystical white and blue that you see in the postcards, but there is something magical and dreamlike about Chefchaouan and easy to fall in love with the town.

  I hike the alleyways from one end to another, then continued on until the very edge of town, the whole valley below still wrapped in a thick mist. 

Looking for an alternate way back, I find myself on a road climbing high up the mountainside… Suddenly I am at the top of the ledge gazing down at the city barely visible through the mist. 

Yep, you gotta love Chefchaouan.

And to top that off, there’s a nice stairway down to the city not far away...

I wander up and down the alleyways a couple more times, looking for the perfect Chefchaouan style houses—the ones with the stairs painted sky blue… I also enjoyed the plaza and the old castle—even though I can’t find a way to get inside.

I still want to soak in more of Chefchaouan, but first I figure I should check out a couple neighboring towns…

Later that day…

After Bab Berred and Bab Taza I come back to spend the night in Chefchaouan.

  I find a very clean, charming little inn deep in the medina and settle in…

I spend the rest of the evening wandering about, sampling various Chefchaouan treats and soaking in the vibe of the place.
It would be a nice place to just chill for a while… but right now I’ve got work to do…

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photo by: sulemaniya