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0255. Singing for the Coconut Harvesters (Gambia 01--new)

Barra Travel Blog › entry 10 of 130 › view all entries

Six months into my new Morocco life, I feel I’ve just got to take a break and try something different. I head south WAY south—overland all the way across the Sahara desert through Mauritania, Senegal and Gambia to discover the joys and perils of playing street music in sub-Saharan Africa. Then I return to Morocco to discover another 100+ towns…
WorldAfricaGambiaBarra

0255. Singing for the Coconut Harvesters (Gambia 01--new)

The Senegal-Gambia border has to be the most pleasant borders in the world.  On both sides the officials were downright cheerful, the moneychangers straightforward--winsome without being to pushy... and and typical West African rural charm on each side.

I walked a bit farther to where I saw a minibus parked and asked how much it was. The collector said "100 Dalais, and I'll go right away" I insisted that I was only going to pay regular fare, no matter how long I had to wait... He kept coming down farther and farther, but I wouldn't budge... Finally, the bus filled up and we were off....

Before long we had reached Barra, the ferry town on the north side.  I figured it would be worth exploring before catching the ferry to Banjul.

..

So I wandered to the edge of town, and then took a dirt road  that snaked between marshland and the village... Not really seeing any good places to park bench--then I spotted a shady coconut grove that might work out....

The grove was full of boys of all ages who were scurrying up the coconut trunks and throwing down the coconuts--harvesttime is in full swing.  Their boss seemed to be quite friendly and didn't seem to mind at all that I provide a bit of entertainment for his workers. 

Afterwards they all insisted that I must go and meet Barra's most notable musician--so he had a young fellow take me to his house. We reached a shady open area with beautifully painted walls.  A sort of music and art sanctuary hidden in this unknown Gambian Village.  They led me to their revered musician, an older man with graying dredlocks and colorful clothes

"We're in the process of creating a place where people can come to discover Gambian art and music..." he told me in  solemn voice...

I would have stayed longer, but I had a ferry to catch...

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