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0253. Chased by the Glue Sniffing Zombies (Sgl 05--revisit)

Kaolack Travel Blog › entry 8 of 130 › view all entries

Six months into my new Morocco life, I feel I’ve just got to take a break and try something different. I head south WAY south—overland all the way across the Sahara desert through Mauritania, Senegal and Gambia to discover the joys and perils of playing street music in sub-Saharan Africa. Then I return to Morocco to discover another 100+ towns…

0253. Chased by the Glue Sniffing Zombies (Sgl 05--revisit)

I visited Kaolack on my 2004 trip and frankly found it to be a chaotic, dirty and charmless--compared to other Senegalese cities.  The market area is knee deep in rubbish by the end of the day and outside a three block radius there's almost no architectural distinctiveness to the city.  But then back in the US, I met a Muslim African American who said that his father had sent him to receive his education in at a famous ancient Islamic school there... So I'm coming back to see what I missed last time.

On the way I manage to get a couple good shots of the magnificent baobab trees of this region and traditional little mud and palm leaf hamlets... Love them.  They might not be the most comfortable sort of housing, but there's a special charm in preserving an ancient method of construction--besides, they allow people to be so much more self sufficient.

.. all the construction materials are right there in their immediate environment...

Got off the bush taxi near the western edge of town and wandered around towards the city center.  Saw a couple of interesting mosques here and there, but nothing that looked like that famous school... 

Reached downtown and the market, headed down to the modern Japanese built fish market--a sharp contrast with the scruffy surroundings.   There did seem to be a quiet little spot that there by the lake where I figured I could take a video clip. Folks in the area seemed a little shifty, but I chose to override the voice of caution. 

Immediately I was surrounded by a gang of kids--who turned out to be an entertaining audience... took a few couple of pictures of them, bud didn't get my video clip.

..

It's only Five PM, but the market is starting to look a bit empty, so I figure I'd better head on my way.  Suddenly two tall fellows pop out of nowhere and start grabbing at my camera and guitar.  I'm pretty sure they're not asking for an encore...

I manage to back up to a carpentry shop that still open, where to guys tell the two glue sniffing thieves to back off... They do... I wait for a bit, then decide I'd better make a run for it...

So I speed off though the semi abandoned market with the zombies in hot pursuit... This does not look good at all...

Then I look back again--suddenly I have TWENTY people chasing me!  but they aren't thieves--these are the kids that I'd entertained by the lake, and they're rushing to my rescue.

... they surround me and escort me out of the market area...

But the adventure isn't over... once we reach the downtown area, I thank my guardian angels and they head on their way--but my very determined zombies do not... they attack me, because there are too many people around, but they're clearly stalking me, ready to pounce as soon as the crowd thins out...

Where's there a policeman when you really need one?

After trying to dodge them going around several corners, to no avail, I figure I need a new strategy.  I hopped on the back of a scooter, (used in lieu of taxis here in Kaolack) and told him to get me out of there.... The zombies came after us at a full sprint...

We went around a few corners--and into a traffic jam... Yep, there come my zombies, more determined then ever.

..

Just at the last second we squeezed out of there--only to get stuck in a sand trap a half a block down...

Again, at the last second, with wheels spinning, we finally escaped from their clutches...

I swear, not since "Mission Impossible" have I seen so many narrow escapes...

I had my Hero drop me off at the Mision Catolique--which doubles as a hostel... It was a great feeling to be safely within those walls... part of me wanted to call it a day and just chill for the rest of the evening...

But as they say, you got to get right back on the horse after you fall off, so I headed outside once again--this time with no guitar, camera, luggage or money in my pocket.  And I stayed away from the downtown area.

Thankfully, no more zombies, no more wild chases.

Next morning I went out and took my video clip right near the hostel.  I stopped at a little stall to get a bag of water.  The fellow told me that he also could fry me up some eggs if I wanted--sounded good.  I was intrigued because this guy looked Arab, so I asked him if he was from Morocco. 

"My father is Moroccan, but I've never been there--can't afford to make the trip..." he said sadly

I bid him and the town of Kaolack farewell...

So that was my encounter with the evil people and the heroic people of Kaolack.   Don't think I'll be in any big hurry to visit here again... A very memorable experience, but hopefully not to be repeated any time soon...

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