0252. Unplanned Couchsurfing in Thies (Sgl 04--revisit)
I had been thinking of trying to make it all the way to Kaolack today, but after all my wanderings around Saint-Louis, I had a bit of a late start getting out. It was after dark when we got to Thies, so I figured I'd go ahead and look for a place to stay
Thies was another town I visited in passing back in 2004--but didn't have any super remarkable experiences. It's has a different feel than any other city I've visited in Africa with what I'd call a "modern colonial" influence. The hub is a large and modern plaza "Place du France" with some shiny government buildings around it. From there, wide, tree lined streets spoke out in eight directions. During the day, these trees provide welcome relief from the scorching heat Thies is famous for.
Unfortunately for the pedestrian wanderer as myself, Thies really sprawls, with no real urban center. In fact, as I gazed down each of the spokes heading out from Place de France, there didn't seem to but much sign of life down any of them. So I just had to guess and headed down one... it just got quieter and quieter, so I headed back to try another.
I came across a very royal-looking party with men and women wearing robes that were absolutely dazzling... A fellow approached me and said that it was the circumcision party for his son. We got to talking and he soon said he could hook me up with a place to stay... Led me down an alley, around to the back of a house where a couple of fellows sat in the near darkness.
Down another boulevard... to a neighborhood with some cheerful restaurants and bars... I asked for suggestions but the all led to dead ends... Finally did find a hotel, but it was over 50 USDs a night.... Damn... that'd really blow my budget...
It's getting a bit late, but the streets are still active, and feel fairly safe overall, so I decided to keep wandering around, thinking over my options... One idea would be to try to find an honest looking citizen who might let me couchsurf--for a small donation, of course.
...Well, at least I'm seeing the city...
Finally I saw two fellows that looked honest, so I went over to them to explain my predicament. The told me that a nearby church might provide me with lodging. He offered to show me way...
We got to the church--no luck... but the neighborhood is cheerful and people are out and about still... then an older man comes over, asking what's going on... He's clearly been drinking...
"Oh, you can stay at my house" He quickly offers...
Had to make a quick decision... I said yes... And followed him down an alley an in through a gate.
As we walked, he mentioned that he's a gendarme police... I didn't know if I was supposed to feel relieved or even more worried.
My inebriated host led me into a small and very crowded living room and began to introduce me to his family. Whew. Family. That's always reassuring. He had about 10 kids or so ranging from 14 to adult. They seemed to feel a bit uncomfortable with this dude their tipsy father and husband dragged in off the street. His wife in particular did not seem at all humored. Hopefully I'll be able to win them over.
One of the sons, Nicholas, eyed my guitar and mentioned that he's a musician as well, in fact, he's got an album out... Cool... a way to connect...
Gradually the family started to warm up to me--they insisted that I stay in a nice bedroom that belongs to a son who is working in Dakar.
As Nicholas and I hung out and played music late into the night, I started getting a fascinating glimpse into Senegalese family life.
Next morning, I got up to get a bit better feel of the surroundings. The house is really a small, walled compound or several small homes surrounding a central patio. Different sons with their respective family live in each home. The family also hosts the neighborhood well, so all morning there's a parade of neighbors coming in to draw water. Nicholas said his grandfather dug the well, and lets everyone use it for free.
Despite the fact that several of the sons are employed and the father is a Gendarme, their living conditions are still quite basic. It makes me wonder what constitutes middle class here in Senegal...
I figure the least I can as a thank you is get something for breakfast for everybody... so I head out to explore the sprawling neighborhood. Hundreds of kids are heading out to school down these very wide dirt streets that stretch out into the horizonm stopping to buy bread at little stalls... I can't find any patisserie so I settle on bread and cheese...
When I get back, Nicholas's fathe is heading off to work--and his wife seems a bit more cheerful... I offer to take some pictures of the family and then send them by email--they seem to like the idea.
Overall, great experience with my new adoptive family in Thies... but I must be going now...
I meander through town a bit--I find an interesting market area to explore and even take a few discreet pictures...
...Head back to Place du France where I have my official parkbenching session... have a great discussion with a young law student about immigration to Europe etc... his feeling is that young, bright Senegalese should focus more on building up their own country, rather than always being obsessed with moving abroad...
...And that was it... my cool little Thies adventure...
