Palermo..

Buenos Aires Travel Blog

 › entry 13 of 28 › view all entries

Woke up after 4 hours sleep, and that wasnt the best sleep. Really stuffy room and one of the english guys was snoring the whole time. Today i was meeting up with Jonas, i had been emailing him for a few months before arriving and he offered to show me around the city, i wasnt really in the mood but i need to make the most of my time here, so took a couple of painkillers and headed downstairs to meet him. He was really nice and we went for breakfast in a traditional cafe called Tortoni, there are a few around BA and are really old fashioned, big shanderlers and painting, there was a tango hall downstairs for the evenings. I had a really nice cup of tea, ive been craving one for a while so that just did the trick. We took a stroll down Puerto Madero, the docks really reminded me of Liverppol but without the bad weather, today was another really hot day and with me hangover i was feeling a little fragile. We went to a plaza were there was a unicef exebition, 140 bears where lined up around the square, each one represented one country and designed by different artists, each one was identical in size about twice the siza of me, really cool. Later we sat in the park and ate some empadas which are the same as impanadas in brazil, pastries filled with meat of cheese, i really need to stop eating carbs, that all im eating, bread and toast for breakfast, sandwiches for lunch, then agian at dinner and with all the alcohol it was doing nothing for my waistline which was slowly growing outwards.

In the afternoon i moved to anotherdistrict in BA, called Palermo, the hostel had been recommended to me by a friend but they were full the night before, Palermo is a really trendy place, nothing like the city with all the noise and highrise, each street was lined with trees and each house no more than 2 storeys high, lots of posh eateries and bars. Old men sat outside the shops and dogs trying to find shade from the heat of the day. The hostel was actually a little guesthouse owned by sebastian and his big black dog, it held 20 people max and i had my own double room with wrought iron shutters overlooking the courtyard, lots of hammocks and a really chilled atmosphere, the kitchen was nice so i decided to cook instead of eating out, took a stroll down the street, each one with a little bakery, butchers and grocery store, bought some fruit and chorizo and salami, went to the bakery and bought some bread. There was noone really around in the hostel, but i made my meal and  talked to Sebastian. I then took full advantage of my own room and chilled out.

I slept so well but woke up early and have breakfast, Isabell looks after the house on the weekend and she brought me a fresh pot of tea and toast, she sat with me and had a chat, i wanted to see some more of the city and she suggested that i get on the buses, its was only 20p per bus and took me everywhere i wanted, cool. She told me i need the no19 for Recoleta so i headed off and waiting at the bus stop. Recoleta is a really posh neighbourhood where the rich live and the richer die. Cementerio Recoleta is a 54,843 sq meters and holds 4,800 vaults, some vaults hold just one coffin and some hold whole familes, 5 or 6 coffins on shelves visible through the stainglass or burried below in the vaults. I did get a chill down my spine when i walked through, ive never seem anything like it, tomb after tomb getting bigger and bigger in size and design. It was strange to have a cemetery as a place to visit but this place was unbelieveable, it didnt take long to find the most visited sight of Evitas Grave, i just followed the crowds. Confrident now on the bus i asked which number took me to San Telmo, it was no93 so i waited and headed here next, San Telmo is the home of Tango culture you can normally see dancers in the squares surrounding the parks, but i wasnt so lucky. I did pass through little cobble streets full of antique shops and art galleries. I sat in a cafe and have a drink whilst looking over the square which was holding an antiques fare. It was a really hot day again and i was already feeling tired. I wasnt sure which bus to catch back to Palermo so walked through the city centre to the metro, all of a sudden out of nowhere it started to pourdown, i sough refuge in the shopping mall (how convienient!) I browsed through a few shops but these were expensive andi had to remind myself i was a backpacker. After the short rainfall i headed to the metro, i didnt pay because the machine was broke, i got off 7 stops later at Palermo, it was quiet a way to the hostel so i jumped on the no93 bus. Only to get off 5 stops later because it had broke down, i had to wait for another to come. Back on the bus i was quite happy with how i was dealing with the public transport but it was only 10 mins into the journey and as i passed the Recoleta cemetery that i realised the number 93 bus was the second one i took that day and i was heading right back to San Telmo, arrrrr! I got off at the next stop, so frustrated. There was no way i was getting on another and flagged a taxi! I have the worst sense of direction, i cant read map without turning them around to the direction im facing and so im not suprised the mess i got into today!

I couldnt leave Buenos Aires without going to a tango show, so Sebastian booked one for me...in San Telmo! I cant believe after all the hassle today i was going back there, i decided a taxi would be a better option. I can honestly say it was one of the most painful experiences of my life. Firstly i dont think i thought it through, i should have just booked to see the show but i booked the diner also so sat on my own in a really quiet resturant whilst everyone stared at me, there was not one person under 60. I felt so out of place sat there on my own, it was like being on a cruise ship for OAPs, cringe! The show finally came on, there were a few singers on, everything of course was in spanish so i didnt know what they were singing, finally when the tango dancers came on i was so over it, they were really good, its such a fantastic dance but i was dissapointed so left as so as it finished. I would have loved to go to a real Tango show but my time was up in BA, maybe ill catch one in Wigan!

amyian says:
Hia Deb! Mmm the empadas sound yummy yum, a bit like a pastie? Not quite the Greggs sort though, haha! Palermo sounds lovely! Get some more pics on here or Facebook when you can. Speak soon.. Miss and love you lots too, Ames and Ian xxx
Posted on: Mar 17, 2009
rigbydavid1 says:
Hi Debs,
Who ate all the empada's!!!
Great blog again,sound like a cool place to be right now. Hope you have taken lots of pictures?
Continue to take care, with lots of love from Dad xxx.
Posted on: Mar 17, 2009
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