Het Groot Begijnhof
March 1, 2009
We had a very pleasant wander around Leuven today, accompanied by friends. We started at Renee, a statue built to represent the female students of Leuven, just outside Sint Michielskerk, a baroque church designed in 1650 by the Jesuit Priest Willem Hessius. We then wandered down to Geluksbrenger (Good luck), a statue of a duck with instructions of how to trick people into thinking the water is activated by rubbing the tail when there is actually a secret button to push.
The Groot Begijnhof is a World Heritage listed city within a city. It was founded in 1230 and includes 62 houses, ten convents and a church, all designed to look inwards rather than to be connected to the rest of the city. Begijnhofs rose in popularity throughout the low countries during this period, due to "a surplus of women" (actually due to a shortage of men because of war combined with a social structure that made it almost impossible for women to support themselves). Many of the "surplus" women joined convents, but the strict rules (and probably more importantly - the high cost of admission) required the formation of a semi-religious institution where women (the begijns) could live as part of a separate community but still have access to the greater economic activity of the town. The Begijnhof complex is still amazingly intact, and was taken over by the Welfare Commission in 1925 (except for the Gothic Church, built in 1305) and restored for student and academic housing.
After het Groot Begijnhof we walked to the Leuven Botanic Gardens via a large statue of Sylvain Van de Weyer, a leading Leuven-born politician during following the Belgian Revolution in 1830. He was selected as foreigner representative of the revolutionaries because of his excellent English, a skill which is now mundane in Leuven. We only had a brief walk through the botanic gardens, but the hidden statues and bright colours made us promise to return. We finished by the statue De Kotmadam, in honour of the landladies of student accommodation.
The Groot Begijnhof is a World Heritage listed city within a city. It was founded in 1230 and includes 62 houses, ten convents and a church, all designed to look inwards rather than to be connected to the rest of the city. Begijnhofs rose in popularity throughout the low countries during this period, due to "a surplus of women" (actually due to a shortage of men because of war combined with a social structure that made it almost impossible for women to support themselves). Many of the "surplus" women joined convents, but the strict rules (and probably more importantly - the high cost of admission) required the formation of a semi-religious institution where women (the begijns) could live as part of a separate community but still have access to the greater economic activity of the town. The Begijnhof complex is still amazingly intact, and was taken over by the Welfare Commission in 1925 (except for the Gothic Church, built in 1305) and restored for student and academic housing.
After het Groot Begijnhof we walked to the Leuven Botanic Gardens via a large statue of Sylvain Van de Weyer, a leading Leuven-born politician during following the Belgian Revolution in 1830. He was selected as foreigner representative of the revolutionaries because of his excellent English, a skill which is now mundane in Leuven. We only had a brief walk through the botanic gardens, but the hidden statues and bright colours made us promise to return. We finished by the statue De Kotmadam, in honour of the landladies of student accommodation.
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Gelato in Leuven
Maestro Gelato is a trendy ice cream cafe at the head of Oude Markt, the main pub street of Leuven. It is an upmarket gelato store with good, but not necessarily great, gelato for a couple of Euros. They have a few unusual flavours too - I tried Red Bull and Vodka, which pretty much tasted like Red Bull and Vodka, not a great combination in an ice cream but they did warn me so I can't complain. There is plenty of outdoor seating and it is a nice place to be, so that makes up for the slight disappointment in the ice cream experience.

Nepalese Tandoori in Leuven
Restaurant Basecamp is a nice Nepalese Tandoori restaurant just around the corner from the Town Hall. The food is quite good, great garlic naan, with dishes around 10-12 euro each and beer starting from 2 euro. It is nice how much effort they have gone into to decorating the restaurant, with large paintings of Nepal spanning the walls and carved wooden seats at each table. The service was good and quick (but it was a Sunday night and the place was empty when we walked in), and they gave us a candle lit dinner, which always makes Lydia happy.
Gorgeous little coffee shop / bookstore
De Dry Coppen is a gorgeous little bookstore a few streets from the town square of Leuven. The bookstore has a good selection of Dutch and English language titles, with an emphasis on literature and travel. Possibly more than a bookstore, De Dry Coppen is also a coffee shop, with a warm atmosphere and old wooden tables. I enjoyed my mango smoothie and Lydia really loved her hot chocolate, which came out Belgian style - a cup of hot milk and a small shot glass of chocolate buds you could stir and melt into your milk. Of course all coffees and hot chocolates come out with a Belgian chocolate on the side.
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A splash of colour
The Leuven Botanic Gardens are the oldest in Belgium, founded in 1738. There are small ponds, herb gardens, greenhouses and hidden statues, making a very pleasant walk. A field of crocus, with their delicate white and purple flowers, must be the most colour I have seen in Belgium since arriving. Does this mean spring is on the way? Maybe not, since some species of crocus flower in autumn and last until the end of winter.
October - April : 08:00-17:00
May-Sept : 08:00-20:00
on Sundays and public holidays the garden opens at 09:00.
October - April : 08:00-17:00
May-Sept : 08:00-20:00
on Sundays and public holidays the garden opens at 09:00.










