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Market to Fortress to Arena

Helsinki Travel Blog › entry 8 of 9 › view all entries

Finland is great, even in the winter! If you can bear the cold, you'll find great deals on air travel, sea travel, and lodging, without the hassle of the crowds! My fiance and I visited Helsinki over the 2008-2009 New Year. We spent the majority of our time in Helsinki, but took day trips to Tallinn, Estonia, and St. Petersburg, Russia.

Market to Fortress to Arena

Canned bear, reindeer, and elk meat at Old Market Hall
We woke to another delicious and hearty breakfast at our hotel.  We were beginning to tire of the breakfast staples by this point in our trip, though I definitely miss having fresh bread, cheese, smoked fish, and rice pies waiting for me when I wake up at home.

After breakfast, we set out to Market Square, where we were to catch a ferry to Suomenlinna Fortress.  Our HKL tourist ticket, good for all HKL-overseen public transportation, was also good for the Suomenlinna Ferry.  Upon arriving at Market Square, we missed a ferry by a hair!  Being the winter, the ferries depart every 60 minutes rather than every 20-30 minutes like they do during the summer months.

An hour to kill before the next ferry?  We could look around the open-air Market Square--even in the deathly cold winters, people brave the cold to peddle their knit hats, smoked fish, and canned reindeer.
Shrimp at Old Market Hall
  But after watching a little girl feed the ducks and lone swan, and after posing for some photos with a turtle statue, we sought warmth in the Old Market Hall.  This gourmet marketplace houses a unique collection of stands, selling fish, meats and sausages, chocolate, candy, and caviar.  There are a few kabob restaurants, sandwich shops, and coffee shops, but we didn't want to eat.  We just browsed the unique food items.  Most interesting was a sign that said "I am notorious reindeer killer from Lapland."

Back at the ferry dock an hour later, we stood inside the little terminal to keep warm.  There, besides the Suomenlinna-bound tourists, was a group of bums, some asleep.  They had a cell phone.  Yes, everyone in Finland has a cell phone--even bums!

Finally, the ferry arrived, and they managed to pack what seemed like 200 people onto this tiny boat.
Old Market Hall
  Even more miraculous was that we found seats!  The 10-minute journey to the sea fortress was over in no time.  Upon docking at Suomenlinna, we noticed icicles under the dock, which all appeared cut off at the same length--where the ocean waves bob up against them.

Suomenlinna Fortress is a neat place to visit... in the summer.  A lot of walking is required, and the distances between the various points of interest are long.  Walking-disance, yes, but painfully long when it's zero Fahrenheit.  We saw the library, an art gallery, the church, a grocery store, and the historical museum.

We waited about 20 minutes for the ferry to arrive to take us back to Helsinki.  This time, we were one of the first on to the ferry, which wasn't necessarily a good thing.  We sat right next to the door, so we could be one of the first out of the ferry as well.
Market Square
  Halfway through the ride, a child dirtied his or her diaper--we could smell it, then it dissipated.  Toward the end of the ride, the child and their family walked past our seats to the door, and stood just outside the door.  The wind whipping through that door carried a dreadful odor from that child.  We couldn't leave that ferry soon enough!

Once on dry land, we trammed back to the Central Rail Station, where we went to a bulk candy store and had some Hesburger for a very late lunch.

A brief stop at K Market was in order, for some Coca-Cola Light to keep in our hotel room.  The afternoon was spent relaxing and warming up for about an hour, before we headed back out to Hartwall Areena to see a Jokerit home game.
Fortress buildings near the boat dock on Suomenlinna
  It was a tough decision to go to the game.  The tram stop was about 10 minutes from the arena, and we weren't sure about walking so far in the cold.  The bus was another option, but the bus stop we needed was further from our hotel than was the tram stop.  We layered on the winter clothes, and decided to make the trek.  I wasn't sure exactly what was the right stop, but we guessed and got it right.  The ensuing 10-minute walk wasn't so bad, especially since we could see the glowing, brightly-lit arena from afar.

Jokerit played (and beat) H.P.K. that night.  The experience at that game converted me to a Jokerit fan.  At the ticket counter, we got two 8th-row seats, again right behind one of the nets.  Excellent seats, which in the US, would cost $80 USD each.
Hartwall Areena
  I heard the clerk say that our two tickets totalled 80 Euro, which was about what I was expecting.  But when I signed my credit card receipt, I realized that I'd misheard her--the two tickets were only 18 Euro!  Incredible!

Inside, the arena was bustling.  A huge, new, bright arena, full of Finns decked out in Jokerit jerseys and scarves.  We bought a scarf, a pipo, and some other little items from the team store.  Even the team store had lower prices than NHL team stores.  Our seats were in the section right next to the "ultras" section.  That made it one of the most entertaining and enjoyable hockey games I'd ever been to.  At the end of the game, both teams saluted their fans--a nice gesture that we don't see in the NHL.
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009


After the game, we wanted to try to take the bus that stopped right in front of the arena.  But there were so many cars and tour buses (mostly carrying fans from H.P.K.), that we decided to just walk back to the tram stop.  As we approached the stop, we missed the tram by seconds!  It would be 10 minutes until another came by.  But, a minute later, one came in the other direction.  Since it's just a big loop route, we decided to hop on, and take the longer part of the loop back to our hotel.  Long, it was, but we got to see a different part of Helsinki, and it was a relaxing ride after a full day of wintry fun.
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Canned bear, reindeer, and elk mea…
Canned bear, reindeer, and elk m
Shrimp at Old Market Hall
Shrimp at Old Market Hall
Old Market Hall
Old Market Hall
Market Square
Market Square
Fortress buildings near the boat d…
Fortress buildings near the boat
Hartwall Areena
Hartwall Areena
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
Reindeer meat for sale at Old Mark…
Reindeer meat for sale at Old Ma
Seasonings at Old Market Hall
Seasonings at Old Market Hall
Dried berries at Old Market Hall
Dried berries at Old Market Hall
Meats and sausages at Old Market H…
Meats and sausages at Old Market
Notorious reindeer killer at Old…
"Notorious reindeer killer" at O
Smoked fish at Old Market Hall
Smoked fish at Old Market Hall
Caviar at Old Market Hall
Caviar at Old Market Hall
Weiner sandwiches at Old Market Ha…
Weiner sandwiches at Old Market
Market Square
Market Square
Turtle statue at Market Square
Turtle statue at Market Square
Feeding the ducks and swan at Mark…
Feeding the ducks and swan at Ma
Vendors at Market Square during th…
Vendors at Market Square during
Dock at Market Square
Dock at Market Square
Boat in the frozen sea at Market S…
Boat in the frozen sea at Market
Old Market Hall and surrounding ar…
Old Market Hall and surrounding
Christmas tree at an art gallery o…
Christmas tree at an art gallery
Face-off, HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 20…
Face-off, HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
Engaged in a disagreement, HPK at …
Engaged in a disagreement, HPK a
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
HPK at Jokerit, 3 Jan 2009
Jokerit players after the game, HP…
Jokerit players after the game,
Unique place to visit, but not in the winter
Suomenlinna is said to be the greatest sea fortress on the Baltic, and played an important role in the historic battles over Finland between Sweden and Russia. Very well-preserved, the fortress is now home to a few hundred residents. Yet, it is also a major tourist attraction with many museums, art galleries, restaurants and cafes, a library, and some shops. Most of the museums charge for admission, though I think the Helsinki Card provides free admission. I didn't find many of the museums worth the cost of admission, and preferred to just view and photograph the old fortifications and cannons.

There is a nice church on the island, just a few hundred feet beyond the boat docks, which has free admission. It is a small church, though, and not as impressive as the Lutheran or Uspenski Cathedrals in Helsinki proper.

This is definitely a place to go in the summer, when you can picnic, sunbathe, exercise, and just enjoy the weather. There's a lot of outdoor walking required to the various sites on the fortress, so the bitter Finnish winter isn't the best environment for that.

This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Travel by ferry from Market Square. The HKL ferry runs several times per hour, making the trip in 10-15 minutes. Cost is about €4 for a 12-hour tourist return, but is free with the Helsinki Card or Helsinki Tourist Ticket.
At Suomenlinna fortress near boa
Hamburgers and Chicken Fingers and so many sauces
Hesburger is a Finnish fast food joint offering various kinds of beef and chicken burgers, fries, chicken fingers, and onion rings. The burger patties are thin and taste very similar to McDonald's. But the bun and sauces that Hesburger uses make this place unique and different from McDonald's. They tend to use too much sauce for my liking, but with the appropriate amount of sauce, I like Hesburger better than McDonald's. Fries are tasty, but the onion rings are just okay. The chicken fingers can be really tasty, but sometimes aren't cooked thoroughly. Cheap, many locations, and fast.

When I was in Finland, Hesburger was appealing because it was similar to the McDonald's I was familiar with from home. But now that I'm back home in the States, I want McDonald's because it tastes similar to Hesburger. I do miss the many sauces they offer!
Hesburger's XL burger
stargirlssc says:
@ CFD - Ah, you're right! We got some snacks at a Hesburger in Tallinn too!
Posted on: Jan 21, 2009
CFD says:
Hesburger is also located in the baltic states :) Nice review
Posted on: Jan 19, 2009
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