Moving on along the Malabar Coast
Varkala Travel Blog› entry 12 of 22 › view all entries
From KanyaKumari we moved north west along the Malabar Coast into Kerala. It's built up. Back from the busy main road you can spy large, sometimes very large, often brightly painted, new homes, apparently mostly built on money sent home from the Gulf. Kerala is a rich province.
We stayed a few nights in Trivandrum, the State capital. Lots of good shops, lots of Indians eating in the (relatively) expensive hotel restaurants. The Palace of the former rajahs of Travancore was delightful, with beautifully carved rosewood ceilings. Outside the Palace was the Government of Kerala Cashew Development Corporation Show Room. On Friday the town was closed down by a general strike, called by the local trade unions because the government had refused to set up a High Court Bench in Trivandrum.
On north to Varkala Beach. We passed the Infant Jesus Homeopathic Hospital and the St Jude Hospital: Quality Care with a Divine Touch.
Varkala attracts mainly western independent travellers. The rooms and restaurants stretch along a 1km cliff top with a silver sand beach below, down steep steps. From our balcony we look about 50m through a palm grove to the waves of the Arabian Sea breaking on the shore. It's a lovely place to relax and to people watch. There's a good few middle aged men who look odd with dreddies or grey pony tails. A walk 2 - 3 km north along the coast led us past small beaches where fishermen tidied their nets, a farmer washed his cow and another his goats. We found a deserted cove, a golden beach where we sat, sunbathed, paddled and read. A dolphin swam about 30m from the shore and a pod of them jumped about 200m further out.
At night we saw the lights of 100s of small fishing boats out at sea as far as you looked.
Next day we walked 500m further on. The golden beach backed by palm trees was empty as far as the eye could see. It's the Kerala of tourist posters and wonderfully relaxing.