Torres Del Paine Travel Blog› entry 8 of 19 › view all entries
Woke up to a much better back the next day. The ferns had obviously really helped.
We discussed with German or more precisely he suggested we should try to cross the ultima espiranza to lago azure. From there the maps indicated a rio that ran from lago Balmaceda. According to German no one had explored it before. Lago Balmaceda was supposed to have icebergs and we’d have our opportunity to kayak there.
We decamped and set off down the last segment of rio Serrano. It was a beautiful morning. Still and quiet apart from the rhythmic splashing of our paddles and the sound of patios( ducks) and other birdlife along the banks of the river.
Soon we reached the end of the rive and the start of the fjord. The water was now salty and the waves started to get bigger.
We paddled closer to the shore line and passes a multitude of waterfalls cascading off the cliffs. The water for this falls originating from the glaciers overhead. Along the way we also passed by glacier balmacedo which had retreated 60 meters up the slope. In the 1950s it reached the waters edge. So here we were seeing first hand the effects of global warming.
Soon we’d kayaked about 4 hrs and it was time to leave the shoreline and kayak in open water to get to lago azure and our lunch site. The waves were much larger breaking over the bows of our boats and tossing us around abit.
A little about our guides.
German is a rather quiet guy who definitely more of a action kinda
‘wilds’ of pantagonia. The strong silent type and actually rather good looking too. Damn we both we wished we were action man!!
Amelie on the other hand is from
After lunch we would begin exploring the river leading from Lago Balmacedo to Lago azure. It started off innocently enough, mild currents but within 5 mins it became to shallow to kayak and we were out of our kayaks and dragging them along. When the water got deeper enough we would then get back in and kayak again. This went on innumerable times and left us rather exhausted.Funnyly enough both our guides would carry on ahead and left us at the back. It soon became a standing joke between shawn and I about whether our guides were ok up front while we struggled at the back.Maybe they thought we wanted to experience pantagonia without their presence. Of course I'm sure they knew we were there at the back. But sometimes you had to wonder :)
Anyways we finally reached a canyon and we were paddling along a narrow passage. It really felt like we were explorers in a river that had never been explored before. Really exciting.
Once again we went through the process of kayaking then getting out to drag the kayaks to get back to lago azure.
The weather also started to turn and before we knew it, it had started to rain. We kayaked another 1 to 2 hours to the end of lago azure and made camp. This time it wasn't so pleasant a camp site. kinda rocky and everything was went due to the rain. Still it was an amazing place with glaciers around us and the night interrupted with the sounds of miniavalanches.