Mental/Spiritual/Physical Health Week

Mal Pais Travel Blog

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All we do is surf
Well, I officially quit school to surf bum in Costa Rica!!!! Hah, NOT! I just decided that I needed some "me" time to do what I really want to do; surf. So Tuesday morning, I hopped on the 6am bus to Santa Teresa to return to my favorite place in Costa Rica. Last time I was there it was with "La Familia" which included Michelle, Mayumi, Pier, Israel, JF, Tom Onions, Aaron, Eric, Massimo, & myself. I fell in love with this beautiful little surf town. Mal País and Santa Teresa are basically one in the same town, connected by a dusty road and a string of surf shops and sodas. There isn't much to do there except surf and that's how I like it.

So I got off the bus in front of the Super and immediately, the hostel owner of Casa del Mar (where I had stayed before) Cesar gave me a hug and checked me into a room with Mayumi!!!! It was so nice to see her beautiful little Japanese face again.
Part of the original Familia
Anyway, after settling in, Mayumi and I went on the hunt to find my perfect surfboard. We checked all the shops and couldn't find anything until......... PERFECTO! Hanging outside of a coffee shop was my Carton 6'10" in all it's used board glory. The guy agreed to sell it to me for $150 plus a beat up bag for $20. There wasn't a leash for the board so I had to rent a board for the sunset swell but that was okay. Once again, another spiritual moment as I did my first Costa Rican drop in as the sun fell. Exhausted, I fell asleep at 9.

The next few days were pretty much the same. Waking up at 6am to catch the morning swell, spending the day swinging/sleeping in a hammock, watching Friends, eating papayas and avocados, then dragging myself back out to catch some waves before dark.
Fogata en la playa
I even cock-blocked myself!!! Totally gorgeous Tico named Jorge (owned his own sushi restaurant in Manuel Antonio) tried several times to get me to go out with him but I didn't want to miss a surf sesh. Pretty much perfection in a nutshell.

Thursday, Mayumi and I spent all day preparing yet another MASSIVE sushi dinner for the hostel. Michelle showed up on the bus just in time to eat and get some drinking in. Woke up and surfed another day away. Oh, but rather than hitting up sunset swell, we all went up to this infinity pool!!!! Margaritas, cervezas, crazy underwater pics....... too much fun!

Basically the rest of the weekend went the same. Surf twice a day, eat fruit, chillax, drink. How can I complain about my life? I am actually living the life that I have always wanted to live. How many people can say that, especially at 19?! Ohhhhhh!!!!!! And I officially am employed this summer in Nicaragua!!! I will be working at Monty's Surf Camp in Jiquilillo. I am going to be giving surf instruction/bartending/translating (yikies!), and doing other odd jobs in exchange for room and board. Seriously, God presents me with some amazing things. Like I said, living the life.


*** Check out Monty's Surf Camp at www.nicaraguasurfbeach.com

Besos de sal.
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All we do is surf
All we do is surf
Part of the original Familia
Part of the original Familia
Fogata en la playa
Fogata en la playa
Blue Crush?
Blue Crush?
Margaritas at the Inifinity Pool
Margaritas at the Inifinity Pool
Sushi Night Part Deux
Sushi Night Part Deux
Mal Pais
photo by: loscar727