The summit of Dame Etna
We were expected at the Taormina Bus terminal around 08.00 o´clock the next morning. At 7.30 Michael was standing at the door and asked if he could give us a ride down. Well, this time we said yes! The hospitality of Michael and Rose was great. We weren´t familiar with the villa´s habits and much did we know: instead of a breakfast spread at a breakfast table they bought us breakfast in Taormina, at a lovely pasticceria. With fresh espresso and cappucino to boot! Just lovely! After breakfast they dropped us of at the bus terminal. The SAT bus arrived right on time. A silver double deck bus, half full. The bus stopped at various places around Taormina to pick up more tourists and by the time we hit the highway the bus was completely full with expectant passengers of all origins.
The bus took us through Nicolosi up to the Etna Refuge of the Silvestri Craters at 1.900 mtrs of Mount Etna Sud. At this point you can explore the Silvestri Craters, buy souvenirs at the numerous souvenir shops, get lunch at one of the restaurants OR you can go up by cable way to the place where the jeeps will take you up to the summit. Untill 2001 you could take a cable way up for the second part, but since this part of the cable way was destroyed in the eruptions of 2001 we had to settle for the jeeps. The ride up was nothing we had expected. No road was visible. Only stakes in the ground showed the turns the jeep was supposed to take. Jeeps were coming and going, passing each other on the wrong side of what was supposed to be the road. It was total destruction.
We were dressed in layers of clothing, because it can be quite cold at 3000 mtrs. But we didn´t need our gloves. There was no wind. The experience of walking around the five craters, born between 2000 and 2007 was unearthly. We were walking in a black dessert and couldn´t imagine just two years earlier there was a parking lot on the spot where smoke was coming out of a big crater. We joined Andrea, an english speaking guide, who explained how strange it feels to come up on the summit and realize your office building is resting in layers and layers of sooth and ashes. Only the roof was showing.
We were very lucky with the weather, it was sunny, clear and no wind. And just enough clouds to realize we were walking on them. Ever walked on clouds? I mean...it is dreamlike. The just swirl around you, one minute it is clear, the next you are touching them. And then they are gone again, just leaving a rainbow at your feet. When I look back at the pictures it is a shame I´m such a bad photographer. It just didn´t catch the moment as we felt it.
There are several possibilities to explore Mount Etna and her surroundings, but we opted for the Etna tour on Monday with SAT excursions company, situated in Umberto Corso 73, Taormina.
It is possible to call the agency the night before, they are open 7 days a week untill 19.30 hrs, and you´ll pay with the guide (tel: 0039-0942-24653).
The tour guide explained all in english, german and italian. In the bus up to Nicolosi, he gave some insights in the countryside, including the history of Messina, the harbour town we went through.
At the Etna South Station in Nicolosi, he took us to the Funivia dell´Etna, the cable way up to the main craters. Everyone who opted upfront for the ascent, received a ticket and a voucher for a vulcano guide. Anyone who didn´t, could buy a ticket at the ticketbox. Be aware though, the tourguide doesn´t accompany you to the top. Once on top, you´ll have to find a vulcano guide yourself and not all of them speak english. We just looked around and sticked with one guide who did. The way up with the cable is spectacular! It was a clear day with some clouds around the hills. Just beautiful. The jeep ride from the Funivia was weird but such a great experience. The surroundings did overwhelm us.
The tour guide gives a restaurant as rendez-vous spot. He did recommend us to eat lunch there, and gave us the estimated prices and menu. We couldn´t figure out if the company received commission for this, but we definitely didn´t eat at the restaurant the guide advised. And this wasn´t a problem at all. We were free to roam as we wanted and besides the time table (we didn´t want to be left behind at Mount Etna)we were not feeling pushed into anything.
This excursion, starting in Taormina, will take up much of your day. We were picked up at 08.30 hrs and returned around 18.00 hrs.
Cost:
72 euro if you want to go up to the area of the main craters with cable way and jeeps. The bus will pick you up at any place around Taormina, though the main pick up spot is Taormina bus terminal.
If you´re not sure if you want to go to the main craters, it is also possible to book just the excursion to the Refuge (31 euro). Tickets to the main craters can be bought at the Refuge, if you change your mind.
Other tours around Mount Etna by SAT:
Etna Sunset on Tuesday and Thursday: Same as the Monday tour but dinner instead of lunch and possibility to see Mount Etna at sunset. Cost 72 euro.
Etna around Alcantara on Wednesday and Friday: Tour around Alcantara Gorges and to the medieval town of Randazzo. From here you´ll take the special train tour Circumetnea following the foot Mount Etna. From here same as the Monday tour. Cost 80 euro.
Etna Valley Alcantara: Same as the Wednesday tour, without the train tour but with Cathedral visit and visit to typical Sunday market in Randazzo. Cost 79 euro.
